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Unread 04-29-2013, 09:10 PM   #16
PHARIS88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roskoe
I'm kinda having the same problem at the moment , Id like to see the outcome of this
Ill definitely keep the thread updated

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Unread 04-30-2013, 11:53 AM   #17
JohnnyZJ
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your control arm bushings are probably shot to hell.

no shop will fix your caster because you have stock fixed arms that are no good with that much lift. (specially with shot bushing)

get adjustable uppers next time and maybe some lowers.

you've learnt why cheap lifts are just that............ cheap.

fyi, aligning a propery lifted ZJ is easy. very easy. and can be done in my garage in half an hour. by properly lifted i mean with adjustable uppers and a tape measure.

no magic here; just basic rudamentary math
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Unread 04-30-2013, 12:35 PM   #18
WhiteOut
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyZJ View Post
fyi, aligning a propery lifted ZJ is easy. very easy. and can be done in my garage in half an hour. by properly lifted i mean with adjustable uppers and a tape measure.

no magic here; just basic rudamentary math
Even when the "mechanic" has been drinking.
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Unread 04-30-2013, 01:43 PM   #19
PHARIS88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyZJ View Post
your control arm bushings are probably shot to hell.

no shop will fix your caster because you have stock fixed arms that are no good with that much lift. (specially with shot bushing)

get adjustable uppers next time and maybe some lowers.

you've learnt why cheap lifts are just that............ cheap.

fyi, aligning a propery lifted ZJ is easy. very easy. and can be done in my garage in half an hour. by properly lifted i mean with adjustable uppers and a tape measure.

no magic here; just basic rudamentary math
I checked the bushings and they weren't bad, SURPRISINGLY.
I've had plenty of people tell me I don't need to buy adjustable control arms, with just a 3.5" lift, but now I'm thinking why the hell not.

What would be better getting the upper adjustable or the lower adjustable? I know both would be perfect..
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Unread 04-30-2013, 01:48 PM   #20
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Wow! didn't expect a set of adjustable front upper and lowers to be about $350!
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Unread 05-03-2013, 09:58 AM   #21
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I paid $310 for upper and lower FRONT adjustable controls arms through Kolak, I had the jeep on the lift today, and I noticed the jam nut for both track bars were NOT tight, also the front track bar bracket mount that goes to the axles drivers side the bolts were LOOSE! I didn't even think about checking the mount bolts because I had NOT touched them when I installed the track bar.

I even centered the front axle a little more, track bar was a little too long.

Also, I have a buddy who is giving me 4 steel 15" chrome wheels and tires that are 80% tread left they are size 31x10.5x15 I was wanting 32's but getting a set of 4 tires and 4 wheels for $125.. NOT a bad deal couldn't pass it up.

The only think I have worrying me is the track bar hole on the bracket mount to the frame, MIGHT be a little wollowed out... but not that bad... I'm about to go drive it 30 miles to work on the highway and see if the death wobble is gone... CROSSING MY FINGERS!
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Unread 05-03-2013, 11:02 AM   #22
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drove 65-70 the whole way to work today, and tried to hit as many bumps as possible, and no death wobble. I was doing about 70-72 and I did hit a huge bump in the highway and I was about to be pissed because the jeep felt like it was about to be thrown into a death wobble... but it didn't go into one.. surprisingly, so after my control arms come in from kolak and I install those, then I will slap on the new wheels and tires and take it to go get them balanced and get the jeep REALIGNED.

at that point I think I won't ever have a problem with the death wobble again fingers crossed!
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Unread 05-03-2013, 04:44 PM   #23
cwick13
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hey guys I dont give a DAYAM what any one says... if your jeep has less than 5.7 degrees of caster on either side.... YOU WILL HAVE DEATH WOBBLE!!! LIFT OR NOT! I have been doing alignments for 13 yrs.. I build my own four links and I am running 33's on a set of 7.5" xj coils up front on a custom true four link.. SIMILAR to BDS system. I can pinky steer at 85mph, will make you a video if you want proof... This jeep NEEDS between 6.9 and 7.6 degrees of caster.... THATS 7.0- 7.5.... preferably 7.2-7.3 on driver side.. and 7.3-7.5 on the passenger side.. this slight difference is to compensate for the CROWN in the road... on a TRUELY flat road it MIGHT pull a hair to the left.. if your shop doesn't know how to adjust the cast on your jeep. tell them that they have hired an incompetent alignment tech.. This is a standard procedure for any thing with a 4 link front end. DODGE PICK UPS FORD S DUTYS ALL TJS XJs AND ZJs... ALL JKs.. ect... although each of these jeeps call for a slightly different setting.. in each area of alignment... with out PROPER CASTER YOU WILL GET WOBBLES... and if you get your caster up from 3.whatever to above 7.. you will be fine.... that is your biggest problem.... take the 21mm bolts at the axle end of your lower control arms and loosen the NUT just enough to where you can SPIN THE BOLT. Spin the bolt in the direction that moves your axle forward.. and run it all the way out!! both sides... I PROMISE YOU WILL NOTICE A TREMENDOUS DIFFERENCE... 3. whatever is below the red zone on that machine.. if they can't figure out how to set the caster on your jeep.. just because its lifted imagine what they aren't adjusting on a normal jeep. I hope you didnt pay more than 50 bucks.. thats a toe and go aligment... 34.95 all over GA its VERY SIMPLE ADJUSTMENT... just make sure when you set the cam bolts they are almost dead even.. if any differences the passenger should be behind the driver a smidge.. any questions feel free to pm me. If you have the wobbles after you get your cater to at least 6.9 each side if you stiff have the wobbles check you track bar and your tie rod end for play...
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Unread 05-03-2013, 04:57 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwick13 View Post
hey guys I dont give a DAYAM what any one says... if your jeep has less than 5.7 degrees of caster on either side.... YOU WILL HAVE DEATH WOBBLE!!! LIFT OR NOT! I have been doing alignments for 13 yrs.. I build my own four links and I am running 33's on a set of 7.5" xj coils up front on a custom true four link.. SIMILAR to BDS system. I can pinky steer at 85mph, will make you a video if you want proof... This jeep NEEDS between 6.9 and 7.6 degrees of caster.... THATS 7.0- 7.5.... preferably 7.2-7.3 on driver side.. and 7.3-7.5 on the passenger side.. this slight difference is to compensate for the CROWN in the road... on a TRUELY flat road it MIGHT pull a hair to the left.. if your shop doesn't know how to adjust the cast on your jeep. tell them that they have hired an incompetent alignment tech.. This is a standard procedure for any thing with a 4 link front end. DODGE PICK UPS FORD S DUTYS ALL TJS XJs AND ZJs... ALL JKs.. ect... although each of these jeeps call for a slightly different setting.. in each area of alignment... with out PROPER CASTER YOU WILL GET WOBBLES... and if you get your caster up from 3.whatever to above 7.. you will be fine.... that is your biggest problem.... take the 21mm bolts at the axle end of your lower control arms and loosen the NUT just enough to where you can SPIN THE BOLT. Spin the bolt in the direction that moves your axle forward.. and run it all the way out!! both sides... I PROMISE YOU WILL NOTICE A TREMENDOUS DIFFERENCE... 3. whatever is below the red zone on that machine.. if they can't figure out how to set the caster on your jeep.. just because its lifted imagine what they aren't adjusting on a normal jeep. I hope you didnt pay more than 50 bucks.. thats a toe and go aligment... 34.95 all over GA its VERY SIMPLE ADJUSTMENT... just make sure when you set the cam bolts they are almost dead even.. if any differences the passenger should be behind the driver a smidge.. any questions feel free to pm me. If you have the wobbles after you get your cater to at least 6.9 each side if you stiff have the wobbles check you track bar and your tie rod end for play...
I tightened up EVERYTHING, ESPECIALLY the track bar mount that mounts to the frame which was a little loose, and I DO NOT have death wobble ANYMORE...

BUT... I am adding adjustable control arms and just playing the waiting game for them to show up to install them, already ordered through kolak, so I can push the axle out further and get my caster to what you mentioned at about 7.
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Unread 05-03-2013, 05:00 PM   #25
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Also, my REAR lower control arms are NOT adjustable even the slightest bit... BUT maybe I'm wrong and can get a hair longer? Until I have enough money for rear controls as well....
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Unread 05-03-2013, 05:48 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PHARIS88 View Post
Also, my REAR lower control arms are NOT adjustable even the slightest bit... BUT maybe I'm wrong and can get a hair longer? Until I have enough money for rear controls as well....
Well the back is good really up to a 32 inch tire on front coils with decent flex... when the rear compresses the axle moves to the rear.. .. I ran 33s on factory rear arms for about 7 months but a secret for ya is .... 93 to 97 camaro rear lowers are 1" longer than you factory.. But you WILL need adjustable uppers to correct opinion angle if you use them.. This is my street jeep four link that i mentioned earlier pre driveshaft i drive this every day... Almost 11000 miles on mickeys with barely any where
1367533700408.jpg  
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Unread 05-03-2013, 06:07 PM   #27
PHARIS88
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Originally Posted by cwick13 View Post
Well the back is good really up to a 32 inch tire on front coils with decent flex... when the rear compresses the axle moves to the rear.. .. I ran 33s on factory rear arms for about 7 months but a secret for ya is .... 93 to 97 camaro rear lowers are 1" longer than you factory.. But you WILL need adjustable uppers to correct opinion angle if you use them.. This is my street jeep four link that i mentioned earlier pre driveshaft i drive this every day... Almost 11000 miles on mickeys with barely any where

HMM maybe I can find some camaro rear lowers for cheap at the junkyard, and order JUST the upper adjustable arms...

and my coils I have no in the back are the BRAND new coils that IRO gives you for another $99 so my rear is actually sitting a little higher than if I did the front to rear swap.

I'll prolly stick with the 31X10.5x15 until I fix the rear control arms though
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Unread 05-03-2013, 06:09 PM   #28
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Also, what paint did you use on your sway bar links and control arms? I'm wanting to do the same once I get my jeep blacked out in the future, still need to paint my body though.
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Unread 05-03-2013, 06:16 PM   #29
cwick13
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Originally Posted by PHARIS88 View Post
Also, what paint did you use on your sway bar links and control arms? I'm wanting to do the same once I get my jeep blacked out in the future, still need to paint my body though.
Sublime pearlescent.. Factory Chrysler color... Same as the pinstripe on my 2 tone paint and the 08 charger daytona ... Sorry for sideways pic.. Phone acting up
forumrunner_20130503_201601.jpg  
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Unread 05-03-2013, 06:51 PM   #30
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Forgive me if this was mentioned before which I really didn't see but man you caster is horrible. The way you caster is right now is like having the front end of a shopping cart. You need to adress that issue ASAP. Stock specs are 7 degrees of caster and yours is no where near that. I just did an alignment on my jeep after work last night check out my readings. My right side Camber is off in the picture because of play in the wheel bearing. But your upper ball joint should be behind the upper you have way to much negative caster and that greatly affects the driveability

forumrunner_20130503_204938.jpg
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