i'm in the process of changing my evap core on my 97 GC. and am almost ready for the dash to come out, but there is something holding it in the middle. I've removed every bolt I can find for the dash, and both ends can be pulled up some from the firewall, but the middle section has something holding it. any ideas about hidden bolts?
1996 ZJ Green Laredo V8, 2.5" OME and Bilsteins, 33's, Holes drilled in the roof.
1998 ZJ Platinum Limited 5.9, Backyard parts fodder
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
^ my 96 is the same way so would think the 97 would be too. There's 2 screws right in the middle near the inside of the windshield where you have to pry the plastic bezel up and don't drop them down the defrost vents. You may have gotten it already but a screw behind the ash tray which is about half hidden.
I got the two bots on top of the dash, the 4 nuts across the top of the dash, the two bolts under the dash on each side, the two bolts at the bottom holding the mount to the trans tunnel, the two bolts on the side of the center section, I removed the metal brace drivers side, all the gauges are out, airbags are out, side kick panels are off, the hidden screw behind the ashtray, I haven't let down the steering wheel yet as i'm still driving it. the ends of the dash are loose and ready to just pull off seems like, but the center is solid. I cant find anymore screws to remove but clearly something is holding it.
good news. I went out there and found the three bolts holding it down so now, the dash should be ready to come out after I drop the steering wheel. there were three bolts on the left side in the center just above the tunnel. now if I can only get the AC lines disconnected I have never had an easy time with these QD lines. do you just push this tool in or should you rotate it as you push it in?
Ahh.. that's the dash support bracket that was on the left side of the tunnel. Make sure you don't hit the nylon lever on the very bottom of the HVAC box when removing or installing it. I cracked/broke mine on install then had a heck of a time installing a new one with everything in place.
It's best to shoot some rust cutter in the QD fitting where the spring is and twist the tool in some. If there's any pressure at all in your AC system those fittings don't want to release. I've found with the tool all the way inserted push the fittings/tubes together then pull them apart. Good luck.
so should the white disconnect tool slide all the way in the QD connectors on the AC lines? I have tried using vise grips to squeeze it in the fitting but it simply wont go. any ideas?? I've used liquid wrench on the fittings and that doesn't seem to have helped.
Sometimes there's a white thin round cover/clip on the QD spring side to keep dirt out and you need to make sure it's pulled back out of the way.
Not quite sure what type of "white disconnect tool" you're using and is it just one of those single plastic circle types? Hard to say if it's in all the way and depends on how long the smaller round part on the tool is.
I've always used the metal tool like below where I could put some torque on it pushing while twisting it under the spring. But sometimes I've even had to sharpen the round edge of the tool to slide under the spring if it's too blunt.
I have tried using channel locks and vise grips to push the white plastic tool in and it wont budge. i'm chewing up the AC lines and not sure what to do. it just wont go all the way in there. if I cant get these lines off, then I don't know what else to do but the cut lines off on the evap side.
You could take a real small flat blade screwdriver and see if you can get it back in-between the spring and tube while turning it in a circle. It's probably rusted tight to the tube and believe you can get another spring if it breaks.
Good news! I got them loose. problem is, they were loose the other day and I didn't know it. apparently the QD tool isn't supposed to go all the way in. all I had to do was pull real hard on the lines and they popped off. problem though, I started to grind on the evap core ends. well I actually ended up cutting into one of the lines that comes from the dryer ( I think its called the dryer, the oblong cylinder with two hoses built into it) so I gotta see how much that is.
Well at least you got the fittings apart! I was going to mention anyhow if you poke a hole in the accumulator line it's not a bad idea to replace it anyway. I'll also call it a filter/drier but somebody said the other day that may not be correct term for what it is/does on a ZJ. Huh coralman?