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Unread 09-17-2005, 07:16 AM   #1
zaq123
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Dana 44a axle

What is the actual difference between D44a and D44 besides that D44a is aluminum ?? Would D44 carrier fit D44a? Is the part # the same? Just curious


Last edited by zaq123; 09-17-2005 at 07:27 AM..
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Unread 09-17-2005, 09:27 AM   #2
PlatinumZJ
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the part nos for a 2003 TJ D44 carrier w/o traclock
14 CASE, Differential
8350 5431 1 J With [DSA] With 3/8 Ring Gear Bolts,With Internal Parts
#5103 017AA 1 J With [DSA] With 7/16 Ring Gear Bolts,With Internal Parts

part nos for a 2003 Wj D44a Carrier
13 5019 855AA 1 CASE, Differential, With Internal Parts

So, Different part nos
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Unread 08-17-2009, 08:32 PM   #3
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I have a Dana 44A I think. Since the housing is aluminum this would mean a magnet would not stick so if it's cast it's a Dana 44 right?
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Unread 08-17-2009, 08:41 PM   #4
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correct, the magnet would not stick on the 44a. you can also get a something like a screw driver and nick it a little and leave a mark to see which is why you should be careful when scraping off the seal/rtv when changing fluid.

i cant remember where he got the info but clninja posted a run down on the specs of a d44, d44a, and a d60. the 44 is very close to the 60 in terms of ring and pinion or something. i dont recall exactly but maybe he'll post in here or you could send him a pm for it.
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Unread 08-17-2009, 08:53 PM   #5
deltl1ks
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Thanks for clearing that up.

I have a guy who is interested in buying it but I want to make sure its a 44A

If it's the more desirable one a 44, then no way I'm selling for the price offered.

I'll keep it myself instead.
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Unread 08-17-2009, 09:04 PM   #6
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What are you going to use as a rear axle instead? It's desirable for a Grand Cherokee owner looking to ditch the Dana 35 and bolt in the Dana 44a.
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Unread 08-17-2009, 09:13 PM   #7
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i would try to use an 8.8 but the 44a is easier to install
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Unread 08-17-2009, 11:43 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spife7980 View Post
correct, the magnet would not stick on the 44a. you can also get a something like a screw driver and nick it a little and leave a mark to see which is why you should be careful when scraping off the seal/rtv when changing fluid.

i cant remember where he got the info but clninja posted a run down on the specs of a d44, d44a, and a d60. the 44 is very close to the 60 in terms of ring and pinion or something. i dont recall exactly but maybe he'll post in here or you could send him a pm for it.
You may be thinking of Arlo. This is the post I think you're talking about:

Quote:
Originally Posted by ArloGuthroJeep View Post
This is a tech post that I came up with based off of info I found on JF, mostly thanks to EMTimZJ
http://www.rockfrogs.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=779

Comparision between Aluminum & Iron D44:
Pro's:
Bolt up.
Get to maintain ABS & speedometer pickup (both based off of tone rings)
Strong R&P

Cons:
Lowest gear ratio is 4.56
Only one locker (lunchbox locker to boot) availablee for it.
Weak axle tubes
Aluminum housing makes it prone to twisting and destroying the wheel bearings.

Ring gear on a D44a is thicker
Pinion gear on a D44a is similar to a D60
30 spline axle shafts

Specifics:
Dana 60
Ring Gear Diameter = 9.750"
Pinion shaft Diameter = 1.626"
Ring Gear Bolt Count = 12
Pinion Spline = 29
Cover Bolt Count = 10

Dana 44 a
Ring Gear Diameter = 8.5"
Pinion Shaft Diameter = 1.625"
Ring Gear Bolt Count = 10
Pinion Spline = 29
Cover Bolt Count = 10

Dana 44 Iron
Ring Gear Diameter=8.500"
Pinion shaft Diameter=1.376"
Ring Gear Bolt Count=10
Pinion Spline=26
Cover Bolt Count=10


Part numbers from Randys R&P on Yukon Alloy shafts for the AL D44

AUSSIE LOCKER for D44 (aluminum version) Aussie Locker XD-14450 (fits both wj and zj equipped with open carriers)

ZJ models.
YA D74871-1x (RH shaft)
YA D74871-2x (LH Shaft)
AK1563 (torrington Bearing and outer seal kit)

WJ Models
YA D76454-1X (Hydrolock model Right Hand)
YA D76454-2X (Hydralock Model Left Hand)

YA D76454-3X ( Non-Hydralock Model Right Hand)
YA D76454-4X ( Non-Hydralock Model Left Hand)

Gear Kit part Numbers
4.56 gear

YG D44HD-456 (fits both units)
YG D44HD (complete rebuild kit includes shims seals, pinion bearing, carrier bearing, etc)
YG D44HD-411 (4.10 gear set)
YK D44HD-GRAND (complete rebuild kit for WJ)

This is a pic comparison between a D44a and D35...can't find a pic of a comparison between a D44 and D44a...
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Unread 08-18-2009, 02:00 AM   #9
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if truss/skidded the 44a is a much stronger axle than the iron 44
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Unread 08-18-2009, 06:31 AM   #10
spife7980
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bama_WJ View Post
You may be thinking of Arlo. This is the post I think you're talking about:
i gues originally but i could have sworn i saw clninja post it up in his build thread or something when he was working on his 44a. but good to know

and the 44a is also known as the 44HD in some parts manuals and stuff. it really is better than the iron 44 in many ways. its just that the aluminum can be troublesome and warp occasionally. but trusses and skids more than make up for it.
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Unread 08-18-2009, 08:53 AM   #11
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Well that's awesome and good to know. Thanks very helpful.

I was all keen on selling it hub to hub for 175.00 until I read that last post. :doh

I also learn you have to match the front gears to the rear so this would not save my cousin any money. I'll also have to let him have the drive shaft.

I guess I should just look for a good use ring and pinion gear for his current rear end.

Dana35C I think.
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Unread 08-18-2009, 10:58 AM   #12
deltl1ks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZJones View Post
What are you going to use as a rear axle instead? It's desirable for a Grand Cherokee owner looking to ditch the Dana 35 and bolt in the Dana 44a.
I bought it for parts for my stock Grand Cherokee,

I have the dana 35 as well. However, I've been informed the front and rear gears need to match. Why would you consider it a direct bolt in? I mean, the front axle would need to change as well right? The front axle on the parts Grand Cherokee has 373's gears in it as well, so unless they are a different size maybe it would be a direct bolt in for his vehicle as long as his front axle has 373's in it.

I'll have to see what he has verses, what I have, verses the parts vehicle.
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Unread 08-18-2009, 03:00 PM   #13
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it is called a direct bolt in because you dont have to do any fabbing on the axle (control arm, trackbar, shock mounts, spring perches etc.) it will bolt right up in place of the old one. but bolt in doesnt mean you just simply swap. you are correct in having to match gears.

you can do the gears yourself though for cheaper but it is a very precise job and most people dont feel comfortable doing it and opt to take it to a qualified mechanic. plus you might have to buy a few tools if you dont have them already and that can get expensive in its own right.
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