Thanks, if I wasn't set on changing my rear wheel axle bearings I guess that would work. But see, I have this dream, and in it this dream I'm driving around with a quiet set of wheel bearings, purrrring along threw the hot summer nites. So you see, I will not give in, mind over matter, it's that bolt or buy new diff.case.assembly$$.
You don't want to drive around on noisy bearings for long - I have a pic on my phone, and I'll post it later. You'll thrash your axle shafts. If you don't have easy access to a well stocked junkyard, you're in for a pretty penny for new shafts.
Try the picks. If there's any Locktite on the thread or 2 on the pin, you might need to heat it up a bit. All it takes is patience. Once you break it loose, it should spin right out. It's threaded all the way to the edge of the carrier.
If you've used any brake cleaner to clean up the area, please please please make sure it's non-chlorinated - chlorinated stuff releases a toxin that will give you smoker's cough for the rest of your LIFE when heat is applied
"How the heck do you get there?"
"Duh! Big RED Jeep!!!"
Thanks again, On a 1 to 10 and 10 being the wrost sounding bearing, I am pleased to say mine are a 1, I can barely hear them back there,,, there has to be complete silence around me and then I can hear them... 97k so I figured its time to change them, I problaly overstated the noise factor, sorry, but I have been replacing things on my Jeep that don't even need replaced, just do it for preventive main...I am trying to avoid just what you are showing me here, and believe me, I just replaced my frt axles and hubs (crowns, made in the good old u s of a) just this last weekend. Saved all parts because the stocks were still in decent shape, going to give your trick a try this weekend, I already tried to twist it out of there with a craftsman easy-out, with no luck, just hope I didn't mess up the threads too much inside that case, if I did i'm a goner,... at last end i will bring it into shop and have them give it a go...
Pretty sure its the wheel bearings, not 100% but because I have run Mobile 1 syn. in that carrier forever and have replaced it more than needed I can't see it being that, but I will keep an open mind and check that out also, so thank you for the needed info...
Synthetic gear oil doesn't dissipate heat as well as dino. Heat is the enemy of the 44a in a big way.
A note about the strength of that bolt.it sees next to no force from the cross shaft.all source is directed at the carrier not parallel to the shaft. So the bolt barely sees any force at all during operation.
'97 zj 5.2, some stuff, some other suff, and some things that even work sometimes.
I know your pain , i hope you figured it out , but if you don’t , what I do in that case ( happened to me like twice on different vehicles) is to hit the pinion shaft pin really hard in the bolt side until the bolt will break in two pieces one piece inside the pin and the other inside the carrier (the one that got the head off) , i know doesn’t sounds pretty but with a big hammer and a brass punch you can do it , that way you can take the pin out and take the c-clips out and then carrier to a shop or do it yourself to drill that bolt out . As you stated before it’s an angle and it’s really frustrating to try to drill that bolt, and you can do more damage to the carrier that way with the drill.
Granted if you damage the pin, you will need to replace it, but its better to fix the bearings or whatever work you need to do on the diff, rather than leave it there until something else goes wrong. And the pin is not really that expensive. i will leave the pic on the pin and the position you need to give some hammer to break the bolt.
Hope this works for you , really the bolt is not that hard to break this way.
Hitting it with a hammer sounds like a good one. That pin is a p.o.s pin and should break, its a good idea, I already have the replacement pin and if I put a few nicks and bumps on the shaft I have many grinders to smooth that sucker out. I should have the info on my alldata to take that case off and reinstall to spec's. Thanks again all.. Never heard about the Synthetic gear oil not being as good as I thought it was. I'll keep an eye on that, thanks, for the price you pay for it wow.. 2 more weeks I go on vacation, I will then have the time I need to deal with this issue, and I will let you guys know what happened, thanks.. can't wait
i aplogize for my noobiness but what picks are you talking about and how exactly? i was trying to change a seal in my d35 and this bolt broke im looking for the best way to get it taken care of. im a little leary of attempting the hammer method, just because we are talking about the differentials