[MSU.WJ]

I finished this install last night, and I just got the jeep back on the ground this morning. I have a brief write-up for the WJ install (the directions that come with the Aussie are REALLY good so I'm just adding a few WJ specific things) and my driving impressions.

Items you will need:

Basic socket set (particulary 6mm, 13mm, 15mm, and 18mm sockets)
Feeler gauge (enough to measure from .006" to .170")
Mallet
Crowbar, Breaker Bar (for those stubborn things...)
Floorjack, jackstands
Gear oil (I used 85w140)
Brake cleaner

First off, loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheels a half turn, raise the jeep, remove rear wheels, place jackstands under unibody, and let axle droop. I disconnected the rear swaybar endlinks to let the axle drop further. Also, place the Transfer Case in Neutral.

Remove the diff cover (held on by 10 - 13mm bolts) and drain fliud. Clean inside of diff with brake cleaner. You should be left with something like this:


Next, remove the pinion shaft from the carrier. It is held in by a cross pin (a 6mm hex socket will extract the cross pin if you are careful).


Once you have removed the cross bolt, rotate the rear driveshaft (which will rotate the carrier) and the pinion shaft will fall out. You can now remove the spider gears by hand.

The side gears must now be removed. To remove these, you must pull an axle shaft out about an inch. (I pulled the passenger side). First, remove the caliper from the brake rotor (held on by 2 18mm bolts). Tie the caliper up and out of the way with zip ties - do NOT let it hang by the brake line! Next, the brake rotor must be removed. This will take a good amount of PB Blaster and some good whacks with a mallet. Also, be sure that the emergency brake is not keeping the caliper on.

With the brakes out of the way, remove the 4 15mm nuts attaching the hub assembly to the axle housing (these are on the axle side, "behind" the brake dust shield). The axle shaft will now slide out:


The side gears can now be removed from the differential.

[MSU.WJ]

Here is a shot of the now-empty carrier:


From here, just follow the Aussie instructions. Remove the thrust washers from the stock side gears and place them on the Aussie side gears. Grease the side gears and spacers up and place them in the carrier. Put the pinion shaft back in and take a measurement with a feeler gauge to check the tolerance. If it is ok (between .006" - .020") then proceed with the installation. Follow the directions in the section titled "Thin Ring Gear" (this is the main difference from the ZJ install - the ZJ D44A has C-Clips to retain the axles and the WJ D44A does not).

Once you are done with the install, check your center tolerance with a set of feeler gauges (should be between .145" - .170" gap). Now you're done! You can try to do the "unlock test" that the Aussie directions speak of, but I couldn't get the locker to unlock with my bare hands.

Here's a picture installed:


Put the cover back on, fill with gear oil, get everything reconnected and tires back on, and go for a drive!

[MSU.WJ]

Driving impression:

With my windows rolled up, I can't tell that the locker is even back there. It unlocks around turns nicely and has very good street manners. The tires only locked up around a turn if I goosed it on purpose.

With the windows down and the radio off, the clicking is noticeable, but even then it's not bad. I haven't had a chance to go offroad yet, but I'm looking forward to see how much more stuck I can get now

[donkie]

Thanks for the writeup and taking the time to take some pictures. If you are heading to the east to test it, let me know!

[nierace]

Nice write up....

You can come do mine now.

[ArloGuthroJeep]

I want I want I want a D44a...just called a local junkyard - they want $850

[Woody]

Originally Posted by ArloGuthroJeep

I want I want I want a D44a...just called a local junkyard - they want $850

At least it will bolt right up. Saving you money in other areas.

[MSU.WJ]

Hey donkie, I drive from Memphis straight through TN on I-40 to Virginia every two weeks right now, if you want to do some wheeling let me know and I'll see if I can make a stop.

Nick, the only hard part of the install was getting the axle shaft out, so if you've done some work on your brakes before it shouldn't be a big deal at all. The most annoying thing was getting the stupid gear oil back in the diff.

[BlaineWasHere]

NICE! Thanks for the tips.

[rrubio]

Originally Posted by ArloGuthroJeep

I want I want I want a D44a...just called a local junkyard - they want $850

I know what you mean Ryan they are about that same price over here also.No way in hell am I going to spend that kind of coin on it.

[Arkansas_WJ]

i dunno mine came with one

[H3RESQ]

Originally Posted by rrubio

I know what you mean Ryan they are about that same price over here also.No way in hell am I going to spend that kind of coin on it.

What if it already had 4.56's in it? Mine's taking up space in the garage.

[rrubio]

Originally Posted by H3RESQ

What if it already had 4.56's in it? Mine's taking up space in the garage.

Now that changes things a bit..If it was already locked it would be worth it.But shipping would kill the deal in a heart beat.

[ArloGuthroJeep]

Originally Posted by rrubio

Now that changes things a bit..If it was already locked it would be worth it.But shipping would kill the deal in a heart beat.

Ramon you are already in line of grabbing a locked, upgraded, geared d44a...wtf are you doing looking for another? On second though, get another and I'll take the one from the MC guy

[nierace]

I'll sell you guys my dub, cus you know you really just want the 8.

I think I want a new rubi.