[wlmuncy]

Okay, Let me unload on this. I believe I need a new radiator. There is anti-freeze running down the inside of the thing. It only leaks once I stop it from running, but at 90+ degree heat, i need to get on this. So does my deduction sound correct so far. I thought it might be the water pump, but the Jeep doesn't run hot. With the temp between 210 and the next hash mark. I do not know where the weep hole is, so please someone point me in the correct direction. You guys getting enough now. Lastly, if I am on the right track, and i need a new radiator, what is the difference between a two section and a three section. And if the three section is better, where do I get one. In fact can I have any links to any radiators.

Oh yeah, I wish to tackle this over the weekend, so I will mostly likely need to order the radiator on Tuesday. HHHHHHHHEEEEEEEEEEEELLLLLLLLLLLLPPPPPPPPPPP!!!!!!! !!!!11

WLMuncy....96 I6, Stock. And yes all hoses have been replaced.

[kdavis]

Do a search, you'll find the 3-core links. I'm no expert, but I think the 3-core is simply more efficient, and has better heat displacement.

Is it a TON of leakage? If you want to buy some time, and you're pretty sure you're replacing it anyway, you might try some stop leak. I've had moderate success there in the past.

Also, you might check into having the radiator repaired, I've not done that with the Jeep, but did it with a Chevelle I had once, they just re "welded" it, and repaired the core. Way cheaper.

[dcadiman]

I just replaced the radiator in my jeep. I got a 3-core for around $170.00 (the dealer wanted $279.00) from www.radiatorbarn.com. They had the best pricing and shipping was free. Mine was a pain in the butt though, so if you are not experienced with jeeps, you may want to get some assistance.

[greasefingers]

I have about ten scanned pages of water pump & radiator replacement instructions. It is out a 1994 FSM. I can email them to you if you like?

[wlmuncy]

Greasyfingers,
That would be great. I have a Haynes and the job doesn't look to hard. Just worrying about plugging the transmission lines ... what do I use to do that.

The radiator from the barn...do you like it. Was it a bolt it deal...


Thank you guys.

[Double E]

If it only leaks once the engine is off, do we have a drainback hose connection problem instead of a bad radiator?

I'm just confused as to the leak at only that time.

On the other hand (OTOH), I guess that when running, it is actually still leaking but vaprorizing as it leaks.

[wlmuncy]

I thought about that, however this is what I find. I notice it the end result of the leak. I can never see it leeking. I have started it and let it run for 20 mins. in the driveway and never see any fluid comming out. However, I can drive it stop_N_go and park and it creates a puddle. It doesn't leak until it's empty, but when you pop the top of the radator you can't see the liquid. I can pour water into it and it takes about an 16oz glass to bring it back up. If I don't mess with it give it three maybe four days and the sensor will tell me I need fluid. The back of the radiator on the drivers side was coated yesterday. So I believe the radiator is messed up along the top. This is why it only leaks once it is shut off. the only hose not replaced is the one from the reser. back to the radiator, but I have checked it completely for leaks and have come up empty.

[Double E]

Yep....Interesting. At 160K, I'd replace it as you intend, however some stop leak could do the trick.

At the same time, if it leaked in that manner (and after that many years), I'm wondering if the stop leak is just a band-aid on a problem that will come up again somewhere else and make you a pedestrian when you don't want to be....

You also mentioned not finding the weep hole....also the back of the radiator being covered.

It seems that the turning fan would prevent fluid from the weep hole from spraying the radiator, but at low idle it may be possible.

In my experience, the weep hole is under the pump pulley. (I'm not familiar with your engine though) Maybe a mirror and light could get you a good look at it?

If it's wet, the water pump is on it's way out and would (I think) explain the symptoms.

[wlmuncy]

Greasyfingers: email is wlmuncy@yahoo.com

[dcadiman]

I used the chilton to get through my install as well, but there were a few snags not mentioned. The Barn radiator is a three core and is a straight bolt in (that is, once you get the old one out which was a bear). Be sure to get the disconnect tool for the trans cooling line, or be ready to rig one like I did.

[wlmuncy]

What special tool do I need?

[wlmuncy]

Okay, well after snapping the bolt that tightens the serp. belt, and waiting for the "special order part" from the dealership. My Jeep is back together and running....Yeah right. It's back together and running, but I lost one of the nuts securing the radiator fan to the pully system. So I need to know the size nut I am looking for. If you know, please let me know. Thank you.

[dcadiman]

I think I used a 13mm wrench which equals 1/2 sae. I hope that helps. And how did you get the trans line off? I broke the old one off of the radiator and removed it on the ground.

[wlmuncy]

The new one I bought already had the lip for the Trans line. I simple unscrewed the hose clamp from the old pulled it our and ducked tapped it during the change out. Pushed it over the lip of the new radiator and tightned the clamp. So Far so good. I don't think I lost to much fluid...to be sure I am picking some up today.

[dcadiman]

OK, yours was different. Mine has a quick connect pressure fitting that had four spring loaded "feet" that needed to be depressed before the @$#%& thing would come off. I wish it had been a simple clamp deal. Does anybody know what tool is normally used for that?