You can buy an entire axle shaft with the CV joint and the boot installed at RockAuto for just over $40. The failure mode is usually caused by the boot ripping open and all the grease leaving the joint.
One tip, loosen the 36mm nut before you jack up the Jeep and take off the wheels (Provided you have a large enough center hole in your wheels.)
when removeing the unit bearings the the three 12 point bolts are normally rusted in there pretty good ive always heated them up its that bad for them? im not talking about super excesive heat going wild in there with a torch but doing it with some care and when reinstalling the unit bearing when you tighten the 35/36mm nut is there any proper way to do it such as spinning the bearing while tightening then loosening an retightening while spinning the bearing?
Soak down the bolts with some PB blaster or other good penetrant oil and be sure to hit both ends of the bolt. The tip of the bolt actually sticks though the threaded hole in the unit bearing and rusts. But I've always been able to unbolt them this way with no problems. Getting the unit bearing out of the knuckle, however, is a whole new problem. There is a method using the steering system to push the assembly out described here: http://stu-offroad.com/axle/unitbear...tbearing-1.htm and this usually works on all but the worst stucks. I have had to use a chisel to get out some badly rusted ones.
When you reinstall it, there is no need to spin it, just torque it down. You will most likely need to have the Jeep on the wheels on the ground to get it to hold in place while you torque it.
I've never had to heat the knuckles, just breaker bar and pb blaster.
I'm not in the rust belt though
1996 ZJ Green Laredo V8, 2.5" OME and Bilsteins, 33's, Holes drilled in the roof.
1998 ZJ Platinum Limited 5.9, Backyard parts fodder
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.