CV vs U joint axle shafts - Page 2 -
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Go Back > Models > Jeep Grand Cherokee & Commander Forums > ZJ Grand Cherokee Forum > CV vs U joint axle shafts

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Unread 04-13-2013, 10:15 PM   #16
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1998 ZJ 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: KCMO
Posts: 29
I have 98, no c-clips. I don't think they use c-clips in front axles at all, but could be wrong...

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Unread 04-13-2013, 10:53 PM   #17
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2000 TJ Wrangler 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Sioux Falls, South Dakota
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You can buy an entire axle shaft with the CV joint and the boot installed at RockAuto for just over $40. The failure mode is usually caused by the boot ripping open and all the grease leaving the joint.

One tip, loosen the 36mm nut before you jack up the Jeep and take off the wheels (Provided you have a large enough center hole in your wheels.)
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Unread 04-14-2013, 09:53 AM   #18
Real Jeeps have dents.
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2000 XJ Cherokee 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: out in the garage - Minneapolis, Minnesota
Posts: 21,647
Originally Posted by dnuccio View Post
..... remember reading that some XJs came with bigger u joint on the axle shafts? if so, which ones was it? id love to upgrade from stock ZJ ones if the XJs are better.
5-297 are the larger u-joints. Vacuum disconnect axles have the smaller 5-260 u-joints. No TJ, XJ, or ZJ D30 uses C-clips

XJ D30 U-joints

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Unread 04-14-2013, 10:30 AM   #19
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when removeing the unit bearings the the three 12 point bolts are normally rusted in there pretty good ive always heated them up its that bad for them? im not talking about super excesive heat going wild in there with a torch but doing it with some care and when reinstalling the unit bearing when you tighten the 35/36mm nut is there any proper way to do it such as spinning the bearing while tightening then loosening an retightening while spinning the bearing?
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Unread 04-14-2013, 11:46 AM   #20
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Soak down the bolts with some PB blaster or other good penetrant oil and be sure to hit both ends of the bolt. The tip of the bolt actually sticks though the threaded hole in the unit bearing and rusts. But I've always been able to unbolt them this way with no problems. Getting the unit bearing out of the knuckle, however, is a whole new problem. There is a method using the steering system to push the assembly out described here: and this usually works on all but the worst stucks. I have had to use a chisel to get out some badly rusted ones.

When you reinstall it, there is no need to spin it, just torque it down. You will most likely need to have the Jeep on the wheels on the ground to get it to hold in place while you torque it.
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Unread 04-14-2013, 12:21 PM   #21
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1996 ZJ 
Join Date: Nov 2012
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I've never had to heat the knuckles, just breaker bar and pb blaster.

I'm not in the rust belt though
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1998 ZJ Platinum Limited 5.9, New engine and trans, no front driveshaft, but it's pretty

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