CV vs U joint axle shafts - Page 2 -
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post #16 of 21 Old 04-13-2013, 11:15 PM
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1998 ZJ 
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I have 98, no c-clips. I don't think they use c-clips in front axles at all, but could be wrong...

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post #17 of 21 Old 04-13-2013, 11:53 PM
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2006 WK 
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You can buy an entire axle shaft with the CV joint and the boot installed at RockAuto for just over $40. The failure mode is usually caused by the boot ripping open and all the grease leaving the joint.

One tip, loosen the 36mm nut before you jack up the Jeep and take off the wheels (Provided you have a large enough center hole in your wheels.)
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post #18 of 21 Old 04-14-2013, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by dnuccio View Post
..... remember reading that some XJs came with bigger u joint on the axle shafts? if so, which ones was it? id love to upgrade from stock ZJ ones if the XJs are better.
5-297 are the larger u-joints. Vacuum disconnect axles have the smaller 5-260 u-joints. No TJ, XJ, or ZJ D30 uses C-clips

XJ D30 U-joints
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post #19 of 21 Old 04-14-2013, 11:30 AM
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when removeing the unit bearings the the three 12 point bolts are normally rusted in there pretty good ive always heated them up its that bad for them? im not talking about super excesive heat going wild in there with a torch but doing it with some care and when reinstalling the unit bearing when you tighten the 35/36mm nut is there any proper way to do it such as spinning the bearing while tightening then loosening an retightening while spinning the bearing?
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post #20 of 21 Old 04-14-2013, 12:46 PM
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Soak down the bolts with some PB blaster or other good penetrant oil and be sure to hit both ends of the bolt. The tip of the bolt actually sticks though the threaded hole in the unit bearing and rusts. But I've always been able to unbolt them this way with no problems. Getting the unit bearing out of the knuckle, however, is a whole new problem. There is a method using the steering system to push the assembly out described here: and this usually works on all but the worst stucks. I have had to use a chisel to get out some badly rusted ones.

When you reinstall it, there is no need to spin it, just torque it down. You will most likely need to have the Jeep on the wheels on the ground to get it to hold in place while you torque it.
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post #21 of 21 Old 04-14-2013, 01:21 PM
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I've never had to heat the knuckles, just breaker bar and pb blaster.

I'm not in the rust belt though

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