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Unread 04-19-2013, 08:49 PM   #16
cryptic3
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So I looked at the link with the tutorial. Do I need to also purchase a wheel hub? Or is that just if I'd like?

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Unread 04-19-2013, 08:53 PM   #17
kg6mov
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Don't need to replace them, but do a shake test, it's not a bad time to do it if they're going.
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Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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Unread 04-19-2013, 08:55 PM   #18
cryptic3
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Good advise.... What is a shake test
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Unread 04-19-2013, 08:58 PM   #19
kg6mov
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With the wheel off the ground put your hands at 3 an 9 and try to shake the wheel, it shouldn't move at all. If it does try again at 12 and 6 watching the ball joints. If it still shakes it's the wheel hub. If it only shakes at 3 and 9 it's likely a TRE of steering.
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1996 ZJ Green Laredo V8, 2.5" OME and Bilsteins, 31's, Holes drilled in the roof.
1998 ZJ Platinum Limited 5.9, New engine and trans, no front driveshaft, but it's pretty

"Whats wrong with a PT Cruiser?"
"Coulda had a V8!"

96 build thread

Niner build thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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Unread 04-19-2013, 09:07 PM   #20
cryptic3
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OK I will try that thanks.
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Unread 04-20-2013, 12:39 PM   #21
cryptic3
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OK so u got all my tools and when time to take off tire I came across a problem one just one if the lug nut is stripped I'm using a cross iron and I used 19 on all of them but that last one and a 17 is to small
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Unread 04-20-2013, 12:54 PM   #22
cryptic3
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Never mind just looked it up and I have to back a smaller socket and use my torque wrench
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Unread 04-20-2013, 01:02 PM   #23
ratmonkey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cryptic3 View Post
Never mind just looked it up and I have to back a smaller socket and use my torque wrench
never, ever use a torque wrench to remove a bolt or nut. they're not designed for that use. ratcheting ones go in reverse for left hand threaded fasteners.

the torque on the hub nut is important. it can be the difference between 100k of service life and 10k of service life.

stock lug nuts that don't have the outer cladding on them are 18mm.
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Unread 04-20-2013, 04:18 PM   #24
cryptic3
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Hey guys just a friendly update I my CV axle was shot to hell got my brand new one in now! I ran into another issue omg but now I found this thing I'm pointing out is stripped and my bolts won't tighten anyone know what this thing is call so I can see how much it is and or what is an easier fix? I thought about finding a slightly bigger bolt

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Unread 04-20-2013, 04:24 PM   #25
kg6mov
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You've stripped the caliper mount on the knuckle. Knuckles are a pain to replace. I don't know if there is an easier solution, but knuckles are cast so they can be hard to modify.
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1996 ZJ Green Laredo V8, 2.5" OME and Bilsteins, 31's, Holes drilled in the roof.
1998 ZJ Platinum Limited 5.9, New engine and trans, no front driveshaft, but it's pretty

"Whats wrong with a PT Cruiser?"
"Coulda had a V8!"

96 build thread

Niner build thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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Unread 04-20-2013, 04:26 PM   #26
durango-bob
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That is your caliper slide bolt and you cannot install a bigger one since if it a fairly tight fit in the caliper slider. You have two options - replace the knuckle or install a heli coil to resore the threads. I had that happen on mine but didn't find it until I had finished welding and resurfacing the divots in the pad contact areas. (I see you have some divots that need attention, too.) So I installed a heli coil. Takes about 3 minutes, just drill it out, tap it, and install the heli coil and break off the tab.
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Unread 04-20-2013, 06:31 PM   #27
cryptic3
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OK hold up Durango Bob your like Jedi master and I'm still a padawan. I'm learning I'm interested what these divot you speak of that need attention. And I found a quick fix. I used same size bolt just slightly longer and used a nut and tightened it that way... Just a quick but not permanent solution as this is my dd so I'll look into how much it cost to replace or maybe this helicoil kit you speak of
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Unread 04-20-2013, 10:10 PM   #28
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You might want to check Dorman/motormite..they may have a single oversize caliper bolt for that...I know they did for a buddys dodge....is it possible to retap the threads?
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Unread 04-21-2013, 01:21 PM   #29
ratmonkey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cryptic3 View Post
OK hold up Durango Bob your like Jedi master and I'm still a padawan. I'm learning I'm interested what these divot you speak of that need attention. And I found a quick fix. I used same size bolt just slightly longer and used a nut and tightened it that way... Just a quick but not permanent solution as this is my dd so I'll look into how much it cost to replace or maybe this helicoil kit you speak of
the divots are the areas worn into where the brake pads rest. as they get worn you end up having the pads hang up on them and you get uneven braking and excess pad wear.
have you put the wheel on yet? there's very, very little clearance between the knuckle and the brake rotor for a nut.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jabba974 View Post
You might want to check Dorman/motormite..they may have a single oversize caliper bolt for that...I know they did for a buddys dodge....is it possible to retap the threads?
most people have found that regular heli-coils back out over time in a through hole application like this. the proper bet is a heavy wall threaded insert, like a keensert, and use a high strength metal locking compound(like loctite 609),
dodge, chevy, and many ford calipers will accept oversize thread slide bolts because they're put together in a much different manner than the jeep units we have.
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Unread 04-21-2013, 06:26 PM   #30
cryptic3
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I managed to get the nut on and tighten it..... I ran into something else after replacing the CV Axel I still hear a popping sound in the area of where I replaced the CV Axel but not like before when it was constant just like once when I hit a bump or something like that anyone know what it could be? It runs really smooth now just that little issue with hitting a bump in the road. Oh and what can I do with my old CV

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