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Unread 04-19-2013, 07:33 AM   #1
cryptic3
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Cv shaft passenger side

Hello my fellow jeep enthusiasts. I'm new here and I have a 1995 jeep grand Cherokee Laredo v8 4wd. This is my first vehicle and I'm not mechanic savvy. However I do follow instructions to the T. I need to know what's tools I'll need to how to remove and replace my CV shaft for the passenger side I'm going to to order the part today and holding to do it tomorrow. Took it to mechanics shop and cost from 250 to 500 and I just want to do it myself as I want to learn myself on fixing my jeep


P.s. I love my jeep and am going to be a regular on this forum as I want to keep my jeep up and running smoothsmooth

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Unread 04-19-2013, 08:10 AM   #2
KingtheZJ
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this is a great thing to do as a home mechanic. do a google search for "Jeep CV shaft replacement" and you will get good result. I would also buy a Haynes manual.

beyond what you will find, my recommendation is to get/use a 3/4" drive socket and bar for removing the axle nut. its 36mm, but a SAE socket will fit it fine. The 3/4" set is cheap at HF (i think around $50 with the 25% off coupon) and is great to have around. ive snapped 3 1/2" breaker bars trying to get them off. sticking a large screwdriver in the brake rotor also works great to hold it in place as you break it loose
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Unread 04-19-2013, 08:13 AM   #3
um7267
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you need a 1/2 inch breaker bar, 36mm socket also half inch and 13mm 12point socket. i say half inch because it is stronger then the 3/8 if you buy the bar from autozone or somewhere like that they run pretty cheap and have life time warranties. you may also want to stop at the dealership and get new hub bolts i had one that was just sitting in my hub( previous owner snapped it and left it) and the other two where stripped. they run about 5-6 bucks usually at the dealer

my tip: take the tire off then the cotter pin out of the axle nut(36mm), put the tire on using three lugs lower it and use the breaker bar with all you might(its on there at 175ft lbs) but itll slowly come off, and don't be afraid to heat the hub bolt with a propane torch(15 bucks at walmart)

if you can i would spray pb blaster on the axle nut

heres the write up i used: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/h...ur-zj-1151893/
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Unread 04-19-2013, 09:26 AM   #4
OldManTan
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soak everything in PB blaster the night before.
12pt 13mm is a must for the 3 hub bolts.
cheater bars and a breaker.
Mine gave me HELL!
good luck!
there's a how to on here that helped me
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Unread 04-19-2013, 09:42 AM   #5
cryptic3
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Thanks guys going to auto zone and picking up the CV axle and some tool and I'll left it take off tire then spray everything with pb blaster and leave it over night
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Unread 04-19-2013, 10:02 AM   #6
chetzar
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Just as a heads up, I have used the AutoZone (Duralast) CV shaft before, they tend not to last very long, like 3 months. After replacing it a second time I picked one up from Napa, no problems since then!

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Unread 04-19-2013, 12:34 PM   #7
tucsonzj
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Order from rock auto or something. Cheap for better parts. Got my CV replaced about a year ago after snapping it offroading, no issues since.
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Unread 04-19-2013, 12:56 PM   #8
cryptic3
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$57 at O'Riley auto parts. Havents called Napa yet as I'm at work I'm assuming rock auto is an online distributor. I really appreciate all the tips
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Unread 04-19-2013, 12:57 PM   #9
tucsonzj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cryptic3 View Post
$57 at O'Riley auto parts. Havents called Napa yet as I'm at work I'm assuming rock auto is an online distributor. I really appreciate all the tips
Yes online. Think I paid a little over 100 for a A1 CV.
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Unread 04-19-2013, 03:24 PM   #10
cryptic3
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So I'm going to need a 1/2 inch torque wrench with 175 lbs? I found one but its only 150 lbs does those 25 lbs matter?
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Unread 04-19-2013, 03:37 PM   #11
um7267
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i just put it on and gave it a good lift till i could move it anymore i dead lift about 315 so after it would turn i gave it a little extra cheddar and they have been fine ever since, the cvs i used are duralast as well they seem fine and life time warranties are nice
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Unread 04-19-2013, 03:56 PM   #12
cryptic3
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I bought a new CV axle but it isn't a duralast. Its a master pro select I hope I didn't buy the generic lol I dont like being a noob to this all but this is how I learn ...m is by my mistakes
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Unread 04-19-2013, 06:31 PM   #13
acanfield
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This is good practice for changing hubs, too. My left hub went bad at 75k miles but the right lasted until 160k. Something to watch out for.
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Unread 04-19-2013, 06:32 PM   #14
durango-bob
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Check out Stu Olson's Jeep site for tons of step by step procedures with pictures and tips to make the job easier.
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Unread 04-19-2013, 07:39 PM   #15
kg6mov
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The torque is very important, if you get it wrong the hub may fail prematurely because the torque is the preload for the wheel bearing. I got my wrench at home depot, shouldn't be hard to find, or you can rent them at most auto places.

FYI, 36mm is the stock nut size, but most aftermarket are 35mm, no real difference, just need two sockets.
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