Well that's most like your problem where your malfunctioning aftermarket alarm is killing the engine. Especially if it shuts down your engine after 2 secs using remote start and the speaker doesn't sound anymore.
The best advice it to take it to alarm installers/specialists to have it removed. Having said that below is a video where somebody is jumping the relay to get back to factory pass-through. Do at your own risk and don't want to offer advice where your alarm will be on full-kill all the time. Again, an alarm specialist may be the best route to go.
i cant find a relay anywhere under there so i guess thats out of the ?
today i been going out about every 2 hours and starting it to see if it would start and if it did i would just shut it off, not even let it warm up. it started every time until about 5 o clock and it wouldnt start, so i tried messing with the alarm system wires and whatever else and it just wouldnt start. id really not want to take it somewhere and pay them to remove it and still have this problem.
if i have 5v to all sensor wires that means my PCM is working as its supposed to right?
I'm not all that familiar with alarm systems and the video posted may just be for the starter kill/disable where there'd be a relay through the ignition switch.
There's a whole lot more to sensors than just receiving 5V of power since they provide constant backfeed to the PCM. In turn the PCM sends back signals to the sensor telling it how to operate/function correctly.
It would be nice to have an OBDII scanner/reader to connect to your system when it dies to see if the PCM is sending out the data it's supposed to. Read the couple below posts by MeanGreen and JS.
Since you're constantly getting the cam sensor fault code run the below test on it. Know on your 97 5.2 it's hard to get to, and you installed a new one, but you need to see if it's functioning correctly.
pcm is good. and all my tests with the multi meter are testing like they should. is it possible for the coil to be causing this? how many volts should i be getting from the plug going to the coil? i tested them with key on and had 0v but didnt have anyone at the time to turn it over.
edit: coil is new replaced it about a month or so ago, cant remember if i replaced it because of this issue or what lol
Kind of difficult to say the PCM is "good" and have you removed the connectors to see if they're dirty/corroded like mentioned in ZeeJay's dirty dozen thread?
Below is the coil test and one of the best/cheapest investments in using a multimeter is a pair of jumper wires where you can see the meter face while turning it over. They're only $3 at Walmart for 3M brand or you can make your own up easy enough with wire and alligator clips. In testing female connector you can just stick a short piece of wire in the cavity while connecting the clips to the wire and probe(s).
I still would not rule out your Python security system is cutting off the spark to your coil/engine. We see so many security systems here causing these type of problems. After all you said when using remote start it kills the engine after 2 secs and the remote start/security system are most likely built into each other. Contact Python below and find out how to fix it or completely disable it. You can't have a malfunctioning security system while troubleshooting every single electrical problem for a no-start/engine shut-down situation.
im getting 9 to 10v while cranking from the wire harness going to the coil. as long as im cranking it will stay at 9 to 10 but when i stop it goes right to 0v.
i have cleaned all 3 connectors going to the pcm none where dirty and didnt see any spread terminals.
ended up replacing coil and so far it seems to have fixed my problem. also i fixed the alarm system and remote start. whoever installed it did a poor job of routing the wires and one was pinched in the drivers door so i fixed that and now the alarm sounds and remote start works!
well my no start is back again. starts completely fine one time then the next no spark what so ever and theres nothing i can do but wait a few hours and then it will start. ive done everything and tried just about everything idk what is wrong with it.
ive switched the relay. and i cant remember the brand of the pump but when it dosnt start after cranking it it defiantly getting gas cause you can smell it.
and when it dosnt start theres no spark at all coming from the coil but im getting 9 to 10v from the 2 wires going to it. i thought it was the coil so i replaced it and it seemed to fix it for awhile but now its doing it again. i thought maybe the coil wasnt getting a good ground so i cleaned it up and still have the problem. last night it wouldnt start at all i was out in the freezing cold trying to get it to start, i even switched the coil out with the old one, ended up having to borrow a friends truck. then this morning it fired right up like nothing was wrong. it either dosnt start or it fires right up and runs completely fine until i shut it off.
when it dosnt start theres no spark at all coming from the coil but im getting 9 to 10v from the 2 wires going to it.
if your battery voltage is also dropping that low while cranking, there is A problem. Maybe not THE problem.
If coil voltage is reading one thing and the battery is reading another, you need to figure out why. Could be a bad lead from battery to PDC or connections, bad socket on relay or fuse in the PDC, bad connector. thing to do is place one lead on battery hot and backpin the green wire on the coil connector, then try to crank it. If you get anything more that about a half volt, you need to figure out why.
the connectors at the coil and cam sensor are notorious for not making good contact.
given all the parts you've changed and the troubleshooting you've already done, if you cant find a loose connection or bad wiring, you may be looking at a bad coil driver in the PCM.
if im getting 9 to 10 volts from the plug going to the coil i should be getting some kind of spark right?
its getting very frustrating we have 6 inches of snow and its only getting to like 25 degrees everyday and im out there with the hood popped atleast 3 times a day trying to get it started.
ive done everything in #1. i thought maybe it was my pcm or the connecters for a few days because i would disconnect all three then plug them back in and it would start but today that didnt work. ive tried putting zip ties on it and tapping it with a screw driver and moving the connecters while someone crankes it and it dosnt seem to help although it did work a couple times but hard telling if it was really because i was moving the connecters or if it just decided to start like it usually does. also it only does this if i dont let it sit for atleast 2 hours. if i drive it shut it off and let it sit for 30min it will not start, has to sit longer then 2 hours. if i leave 3 times a day once in the morning once at 1 and once at 7 it will start completly fine all 3 times.