Could my 5.9 pull a trailer with another Jeep/Camaro on it ? - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 08-12-2013, 08:19 AM   #31
V65Ozzie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bocajnala View Post
I've done nearly 5,000 miles with this so far this summer. It's the 5.2 and a '97. No issues other than losing the muffler. Keep up on your maintenance and check it over every fuel stop!
-Jake
What kind of Bike is that? looks like a V65 Magna.

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Unread 08-12-2013, 11:11 AM   #32
96zedjay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Candymancan View Post
Just wondering...

I've never driven with any kind of trailer however
Scary
Just trailering anything has a learning curve.
Car/trailer on the back of a ZJ probably not the best scenerio for the learning curve.

Good luck on the move whatever you decide.
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Unread 08-12-2013, 01:11 PM   #33
LouC
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Never towed anything? That will be a schoolin' for sho...
When we got our old boat that we still have 11 years later the piece o' crap trailer had no brakes (saltwater region, hard to make brakes last but I learned that pretty well). Boat+ trailer no more than 4,000 lbs. Could barely stop it with the ZJ brakes. Put a new axle and a pair of 10" surge drums then much better I could stop it. My point is, unless that trailer has brakes that work PERFECTLY, that is going to DANGEROUS, as in, you will not be able to stop. Then you have to get the load balanced and then, make sure the cooling sys is in tip top shape.
If you were towing this at less than 40 mph over to the next town on local roads that's one thing. But highway towing high speeds the laws of physics take over in a BIG way. A ZJ is not a great tow vehicle for towing close to the limit. It has marginal brakes, soft rear suspension and a somewhat limited cooling system. Anyone who has towed with one a lot can tell you that. I know back in the day on JU there was a guy who towed a 7000 lb boat with a V8 ZJ. But he had a tandem trailer with brakes that worked, suspension mods and had a lot of experience. If you don't get it set up right it will scare the crap out of you let me tell you that.
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Unread 08-12-2013, 03:47 PM   #34
PCsZJ
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Hauled a Hyundai on a ditchwitch trailer with my 4.0 ZJ

The hitch was a bit high,the shocks were shot,soft springs and after going over the apex of a bridge, the next thing I knew I was skidding sideways doing 55, till I hit the bridge

Have since repaired the body damage, added an IRO 3.5 lift with new springs and shocks all away around. Pulls 200 gallons of water on the same trailer like a dream
Just put on IRO's adjustable lower control arms and now it also rides like a dream
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Unread 08-12-2013, 10:18 PM   #35
Candymancan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevinyj95 View Post
I have towed a 85 mustang across country with my 5.2. you just need to brake ahead. Do very slow take offs. Don't strain the tranny. Problem with this post is 1 wheel bearing is bad and slowly cutting thru shaft. 2 incorrect fluid in rear diff. The noise at 65-70 is most likely the gap between the bearing and shaft it creates an unbalaneced wheel/shaft. Which will leak from the seal then eventually snap. Leaveing your jeep on the side of the road - a tire. on the axle housing if your lucky. Adding more weight will use that bearing like a saw to the shaft. I would take apart the rear diff. RTV is cheap take a look. Look at the shafts they should be nice and smooth with no gaps. It will almost look like a factory cut lol. I took mine out and thought it was suppose to be like that the first time. Look inside the diff for issues aswell and look at the fluid glitter? metal?. It would be nice to do before you have serious issues. You will want either 75w140 or 85w140 in there anyways for towing. Call junk yards for shafts if you cant afford the new ones. The bearings are cake. maybe you will be lucky and not need a new shaft but I highly doubt it with how long you waited.


Im not using the incorrect fluid.. I've always used 75-140 with the dealership additive and right now its got 85-140 in it..

Is the wheel bearing in the rear different then the one in the front ? I've removed the axle shafts in the front of my 4.0 so I know the process of removing those bearings and so forth.. but the rear I imagine is different... As for taking off my diff cover I have done that many times. Here is a picture of the differential.. The fluid isn't sparkly I would say, its just much darker and not honey color compared to the front, the front after 15k miles is still honey the rear is dark. How do you know for sure its a wheel bearing ? Because I don't hear it coming from a specific side it sound more like the middle... but ill get my mom to drive on the freeway maybe tomorrow or something with me in the back so I can listen to it. As for new shafts I assume they are the same price as the cv shafts in the front... there like what $40.. I don't ever buy used... So where is the wheel bearing then is it inside the axle tube ?? How do I remove that ??





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Unread 08-12-2013, 11:14 PM   #36
hotrodjeeper
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This happened to my rear end and I drove my 5.9 for two years before fixing it with out major issues (till the knocking got annoying). Towing a John deer zero turn and lawn equipment frequently during the summer. Only issue I had was a bad death wobble at 45 when towing things at that point and time. All fixed now though lol. Not sure if i'd trust it to tow a 2013 Camaro though.


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Unread 08-12-2013, 11:34 PM   #37
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Here is a good thread for you.
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Unread 08-13-2013, 01:44 AM   #38
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Man that looks like a a lot of work... more work then "easy" as someone put it... hum
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Unread 08-13-2013, 02:23 AM   #39
Timo_90xj
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Once again on this tow- related thread we're seeing the fact that the US tow ratings are way lower than those across the ocean. It's both good and bad if you ask me..

As far as power goes, the 5.9 can certainly tow a 6-7k+ lbs trailer with no issues. Heck, vehicles with much smaller engines can do that relatively easily. All V8 ZJs here are rated to either 7300lbs or 7600lbs towing capacity; anything over ~1600lbs (750kg -> 1630lbs) will need to have trailer brakes though; either electric control or surge brakes.

The issue with the ZJ is the weak brakes, someone mentioned softish rear coils (true), and tranny cooling capacity is not exactly the best from the factory. Power is not an issue; I was towing a 6500lbs trailer with around 350lbs tongue weight, and my rear tires easily broke loose (242 swap, driving on RWD) on damp pavement on 2nd gear - tires being only two years old and 85% thread. The damn thing didn't even jump out of OD/ TC lockup on mild hills doing 55mph. Outside temp at that time was around 60*F so the tranny temps stayed low, especially 'cause I was mostly on flat land on OD/ torque converter locked up. On hilly terrain 3rd gear is the way to go. I've towed 5-6k lbs numerous times, and it doesn't even feel like it's straining the niner. Having legally towed similar sized trailers on smaller vehicles I can tell you that a ZJ niner is a pretty good tow vehicle, as long as you keep the tongue weight at reasonable levels, have trailer with brakes and don't go over ~60mph (80km/h, or 55mph is the limit here anyways with a trailer).

With the 5500lbs (or 5000lbs?) rating there across the States, keep it the legal level, get a trailer with brakes and do it. I honestly see no issues whatsoever towing that weight, keep it around 60mph though. I know sure as hell a full size pickup is much nicer to use on long trips/ heavier trailer, but if you don't have one, you don't. People tow 5000lbs+ camper trailers or big boats around Europe on vehicles like ZJs or Toyota RAV4s all year long. If it's not an issue here, shouldn't be an issue there either
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Unread 08-13-2013, 11:11 AM   #40
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Basically, you can PULL the load, but be wary of STOPPING it. That's not something ZJs are good at.
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Unread 08-13-2013, 01:27 PM   #41
Timo_90xj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SchizophrenicMC View Post
Basically, you can PULL the load, but be wary of STOPPING it. That's not something ZJs are good at.
Trailer brakes = you've got plenty of stopping power even with a heavy trailer. Surge brakes kinda suck on slippery weather though, electric trailer control is a better option.

However, I would never tow a brakeless trailer weighing more than around 1500-2000lbs using a ZJ or an XJ. I've got the WJ brake & knuckle upgrade done on my ZJ and even then a heavy trailer without brakes would be a no-go.
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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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Unread 08-14-2013, 09:46 AM   #42
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Pull the shafts. Take a look at the wheel bearings and the wear on the shafts. No there nothing like the front cvs. They run around 160-180$ each. Unlike like the front which has a hub bearing. The rear has actual bearings inside the axle housing. http://jeepsunlimited.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=482547
Don't buy the axles until you look at them to see if there bad. maybe you will get lucky and its just a bearing. I doubt it but you never know. What brand syn did you use it shouldnt be black. Also check for play in the ds.
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Unread 08-14-2013, 10:00 AM   #43
bigbill888
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I was in your situation once, moving from CA to RI with three vehicles. I hired a car hauler to haul two of them. It was not as expensive as you might think. I used Time Auto Transport.
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Unread 08-14-2013, 11:42 PM   #44
Candymancan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevinyj95 View Post
Pull the shafts. Take a look at the wheel bearings and the wear on the shafts. No there nothing like the front cvs. They run around 160-180$ each. Unlike like the front which has a hub bearing. The rear has actual bearings inside the axle housing. http://jeepsunlimited.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=482547
Don't buy the axles until you look at them to see if there bad. maybe you will get lucky and its just a bearing. I doubt it but you never know. What brand syn did you use it shouldnt be black. Also check for play in the ds.


There is actually no play in the driveshaft.. I took my transfercase apart a few years ago and replaced the vc and when I did I looked all the ujoints and checked for play and if I go down there wiggle the shaft by the diff there is no play at all.

So lets assume I want to upgrade my brakes ? Is it simply new rotors, calipers and pads while using the stock braking system under the hood ? I understand ZJ brakes aren't too great, maybe more because the rear disks are very small I have no idea.. I know the rear springs are "squishy" as mentioned in the thread.. I weigh almost 300 lbs ima big guy lol, if I sit in the back with the gate open the Jeep deff goes down lol.. I've had 800lbs of multch bags stacked floor to ceiling with the seats down with me in it it was around 1100 lbs in the Jeep, going over big bumps at fast speeds I could hear the bump stops bottoming out.. So yes I understand the need for tongue weight to be even..
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Unread 08-15-2013, 10:21 AM   #45
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Problems with ZJ braking come down to the small size of the discs, the small master cylinder, and small single-piston calipers that can't deliver a lot of braking force. And then what little pressure you're generating at the master cylinder is lost to the rubber lines expanding. It's just not ideal.

Seriously, instead of trying to go off on this venture, look into a towing company. I just don't think it's a good idea to tow a brand new 4500lb car on top of a 2200lb trailer behind a 15 year old ZJ, all the way across the country, at the end of summer, especially if it's your first time towing, and the driver weighs 300lbs. You're overloading the vehicle and putting the cargo at significant risk, not to mention yourself. Frankly, it's probably cheaper to hire a professional at this rate.
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