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Unread 03-18-2012, 08:05 AM   #1
coralman
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coralmans/I must be insane/ axle rebuild

This all started with a leaky pinion seal. After reading in the manual the proper way to replace it and being told by Rat the proper way what do I do? Why the easy way of course. You are supposed to get the pinion bearing preload after pulling the axles using an inch pound torque wrench and rotate the yoke several times noting the reading. Pull the yoke install the seal,replace the yoke, and tighten the pinion nut in small increments testing the rotational torque with the inch pound till you get the same reading using the same bearings.

Then I saw the little snippet on you tube where you just index the yoke, count the number of turns the nut comes off, do your thing, put the new nut back on the same number of turns and poof all is golden. NO. Within a week the growling started and continued to get worse...and worse. I believe Rat's words were"if you get that preload wrong your axle will be toast in short order". I got it wrong.

So as punishment to my hard headed **s I decided to call it all a wash and start from scratch. So I will try to chronicle this journey so others will have a headsup. I didn't take alot of breakdown pics but I will try to fill in the gaps.

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Unread 03-18-2012, 08:21 AM   #2
coralman
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200.00 later and I have a JY axle pulled and sitting on the floor waiting on me. A buddy helped me get it to my job where we have a pressure washer.

r-axle-clean-64.jpg

The axle came out of a 98 zj just like mine. I took plently of pics of the locations of everything simply so I wouldn't have to crawl under my jeep a million times when I started to reassemble. It was rusty in some spots so I gathered together an arsenal of wire brushes and had at it.

cleaning-brushes.jpg
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Unread 03-18-2012, 09:27 AM   #3
ZeeJay1997
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I'm thinking there will be a lot asterisks in the post before it's all done, but anyway...

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Unread 03-18-2012, 10:09 AM   #4
coralman
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Not sure I understand Zee, its too early to be shrinking pics to post and the michelob from last nightis frazzling my brain,lol.
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Unread 03-18-2012, 11:18 AM   #5
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Got the axle on metal sawhorses and pulled the cover. removed the lockpin screw,lockpin,pushed the axles in abit and removed the "c" clips and pulled the axles. Using the miller slide hammer {C-637CF,but anyone will do} and seal puller{7794A}, pulled the axle tube seals. Then using a HF bearing puller set #66380 and slide hammer, pulled the wheel bearings. I had already pulled the rotors and calipers. In all this transit I bent the backing plates but Kolak has since hooked me up with new ones.

The oem numbers on the plates are4752129 and4762128 but are no longer available. Kolak got them from Crown along with a set of brand new rear calipers. Upon inspection of the caliper bracketts {the shoes ride on these} they were in sad shape with dimples {hangup points}. Oem numbers are4796342 and 479343 for the bracketts. My bud at chrysler parts center,Brad, got those.

Then I pulled the carrier caps. The bearing caps have little symbols staked into them, mine were in the middle of each cap.
caliper-brackett.jpg   carrier-cap.jpg   carrier-cap-2.jpg   carrier-caps.jpg   puller-tool-1.jpg  

puller-tool2.jpg   puller-tool-3.jpg   puller-tool-4.jpg  
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Unread 03-18-2012, 12:02 PM   #6
coralman
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The little letters "V" and ">" correspond to letters that are staked into the rear cover gasket surface on the housing. That way you know which side the cap came from. To indicate the tops of the caps{they have to go back in the same oreintation as they come out} I staked a"L" and "R" at the top of each cap. Keep all your stuff seperated as to left and right including the shims in the pic that come out from behind the carrier races as this will come into play later. I used two HF tire irons Part#93230 to pry the carrier out of the housing.

chunk.jpg tire-iron.jpg carrier.jpg
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Unread 03-18-2012, 12:10 PM   #7
Muddy_TSi
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subscribed. good luck on this.
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Unread 03-18-2012, 12:26 PM   #8
ZeeJay1997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coralman View Post
Not sure I understand Zee,
When you cuss, it makes an asterisk. Like.... This piece of **** shim! LOL
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Unread 03-18-2012, 01:32 PM   #9
coralman
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Damn, I'm slow to the bit sometimes Zee,lol. Before the firestorm starts, there is alot of different ways to accomplish this and I'm gonna just investigate two. Miller tools aren't needed to do this but I'm a tool whore so bear with me. I spent months scavenging ebay,picking up a piece here and there, at resonable prices. For example, the C-3339 dial indicator set that miller list for 486.00 I pieced together for less than 100.00. Every piece in that set is made by starrett and there is tons of starrett on ebay. Some research, some looking, and you can save money. So for the forseeable I'm yall's{southern interjection} guiena pig. Sit back and enjoy, you'll laugh,you'll cry,lmao.

Now the pinion has to come out. Found a nifty tool on ebay that is nothing more than a steel plate with holes in it to mount to the yoke and square cutouts to attach your breaker bar. while holding the yoke stationary with this tool, remove the pinion nut with a 1 and1/8 inch socket and impact, ratchet or bar. Then the winged hole in the plate has a mirror image solid piece with a bolt in the middle{I forgot to take a pic of that piece]. You put that piece behind the plate with its wings opposite of the hole wings and tighten the bolt against the pinion shaft to remove the yoke. Remove the seal using the miller 7794 and slide hammer or a seal puller,screwdriver, punches.The bearing will come out easily. Tap the pinion shaft and it will come out the rear.Watch your toes if it gets away from you.

yoke-removal-tool-ab.jpg puller-tool-3.jpg
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Unread 03-18-2012, 02:54 PM   #10
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Your carrier bearing spacers/shims look as if the races have spun in the case. Both of them. Spacer/shim kits aren't easy to find. I got mine from Morris 4X4, cost me about $55 w/shipping. It's not a fun job, for sure.
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Unread 03-18-2012, 02:59 PM   #11
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Damn, a correction already, I listed a backing plate as part#4752129, should be 4762129, sorry. This is what you wind up with. The bottom of the pinion is called the "button". On the button if it is oem will be two sets of numbers. A "plus", "minus" or zero number. This will be used in setting pinion depth later. The second set will correspond to the same number on the ring gear to indicate a matched set of gears. If you look closely at the bearing on the pinion you'll see a shim beneath the bearing cone. For set up purposes it would be good to know that shim thickness so the bearing has to go. You can split the cage with a dremel and cut a slot in the race to break with a chisel,use a generic bearing splitter/puller from HF, or miller C-293-PA puller with C-293-39 block set. The blocks sit in the big collar and a lip on them catches under the cone. The forcing screw pulls the bearing off the shaft. Pull off the shim and measure it. I used a HF micrometer item number 68305 but you can use a caliper HF# 47256 as well and its cheaper.

pinion-button.jpg pinion-showing-shim.jpg picture-shim.jpg puller.jpg shim.jpg micrometers.jpg
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Unread 03-18-2012, 03:01 PM   #12
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FWIW if you're pulling the carrier, the easy way to remove the wheel bearings is with a 6 foot long piece of black iron water pipe that's a little smaller than the axle diameter.
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Unread 03-18-2012, 03:07 PM   #13
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Cooter I found mine at drivetrain america. Adam Sadler responded to me all weekend via email when I started this.For the Dana35 open carrier 3.55 ratio the dana part number was 73139X. Its also called the "thick" shim set. I paid 25.32 for it.
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Unread 03-18-2012, 03:09 PM   #14
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Foundry, yep that would work. I'm just detailing the path I chose to follow, right or wrong, so others can see.
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Unread 03-18-2012, 03:15 PM   #15
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As far as spinning in the bore, you can still see the machining grooves in the bottom of the caps where they were bored. I hope they didn't. Foundrydude, do you work in a foundry? That has to be hot but I bet its interesting.
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