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Unread 05-09-2013, 10:30 PM   #31
moparlover1992
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Do you know if the quality decline applies to their seals too? I also thought Timken was one of the best and did axle seals front and rear and front pinion and rear transmission output seals with timkens... Hopefully they last lol

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95 zj 5.2 np242 3.5'' IRO lift, IRO adjustable arms, KOR front trackbar, steering stabilizer and box brace, IRO rear adjustable trackbar, bilsteins, Hughes plenum plate, flow master 40, 31x10.5s on 15'' dc-2 rims
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Unread 05-10-2013, 04:37 AM   #32
coralman
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No I don't, and what I did read read and hear from parts guys you have to examine with a grain of salt, because you just don't know the circumstances.
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Unread 05-10-2013, 05:46 AM   #33
moparlover1992
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Thanks. This is good info for down the road.
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95 zj 5.2 np242 3.5'' IRO lift, IRO adjustable arms, KOR front trackbar, steering stabilizer and box brace, IRO rear adjustable trackbar, bilsteins, Hughes plenum plate, flow master 40, 31x10.5s on 15'' dc-2 rims
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Unread 05-11-2013, 06:56 AM   #34
coralman
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Getting closer to completion of the post, I promise,lol. Brakes. Mount the rotors. I used centric premiums. I'm gonna' inject the text btween pics this go round because it is long with quite a few pics. Clean them off with some brake cleaner and a lint free cloth if you need one. I always wait till advance has the BOGO on cleaner.
front-end-017_360x270.jpg front-end-047.jpg
Next I attached the brake hoses to the calipers. I noted the posistion of the hoses to the calipers as a check. I had not removed the old caliper/hose assemblies for this reason. Caliper part numbers were 5252984 for the R and 5252985 for the L. I used bendix brake hoses simply because the mopar ones were just too out there. This might have been a mistake but looking back I'm not positive. We will get into that at the end of the secion. Part #'s were 78125 and 78126. Bendix is not really the original bendix as now it is owned by Honeywell {mostly a building climate control and other controls}.The banjo bolts for mounting the hose to caliper was a J4006700 and the copper wshrs were J3237672.
front-end2-046.jpg front-end2-047.jpg
front-end2-049.jpg
A copper washer will go on either side of the line. Keep the washer next to the caliper in the round recess on the back of the caliper or you'll have a leak. Do the same for the washer on top and then insert the banjo bolt through all and tighten. Value was 23 ft/lbs but I just got it good and snug without over doing it, they will snap if you do.
front-end2-054.jpg front-end2-055.jpg
I used hawk pads the street version. They do stop a little better but since the are a performance pad don't expect them to last as long as the ceramics because they won't. The rear pads I put in when I did the rear axle have a good bit of wear on them already.The old stuff was on its way out anyways.
front-end2-083.jpg front-end-014.jpg
Gonna have to start a new post to upload more pics.
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Unread 05-11-2013, 07:33 AM   #35
coralman
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Continuing with the pads. By the pic you can see the full notches at the bottom of the pad and the half notches at the top. The full notches go at the bottom of the caliper and rest on the bottom ledge of the knuckle. In the second pic you'll see the raised tabs that locate the outboard pad to the caliper.
front-end2-058.jpg front-end2-059.jpg
The inboard pad has the fingers on it that snap into the piston. I put the red anti squeal on the back of both pads where they contact the caliper or piston. With the outboard pad mounted you can see the two tabs above peaking through the holes in the caliper. Both half notches at the top of the pads mounted in the caliper.
front-end2-061.jpg front-end-025.jpg
Take some good brake grease and coat the upper and lower ledges on the knuckles where the pads will ride.
front-end-006.jpg front-end-032.jpg
Put the assembled caliper on the rotor/knuckle. The full notches should be at the bottom if you have it right.
front-end-023.jpg front-end2-065.jpg
front-end2-066.jpg
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Unread 05-11-2013, 08:11 AM   #36
ZeeJay1997
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That's lots of good work CM. With all the 2WD ZJs on the road in the south, there's probably a market for the skill / tools.

I have sway bar links and drag link rod end that have been waiting 3 months.

What all did you replace and how much of it was worn out?
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Unread 05-11-2013, 08:22 AM   #37
coralman
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Coat the caliper bolts with lubricant and force a small amount in the caliper bolt holes. Install the bolts and tighten to 7-15 ft/lbs.
front-end-053.jpg front-end2-062_360x270.jpg
I used the hand held vac pump and piece of steel brake line that would screw into the hose to prebleed the caliper a bit to get rid of some air ahead of time. I attached a piece of clear hose to steel line and drew fluid into the caliper with the pump. Pump up the vacumn open the bleeder with a 3/8 line wrench. I left the old caliper hooked up until I got the jeep back on the ground and was going to do the final bleed. Then using a 3/8 line wrench I attached the new line to steel line and a T40 torx put the line brackett to the body loosely. I was going to have to get the abs cable braackett back on after I straightened it some. Don't know how it got bent. After all was done I bled the brakes RR,RL,FR,FL, using a motive bleeder.
ZeeJay had gave me a link how to make one but I just didn't have the time to run all the stuff down. It was a better option than plopping down the cash though. Basically you fill it to level you think you'll need, attach to the master cyl. with the non provided adapter, pump it up to 15lbs and bleed away.
front-end-001.jpg front-end-008.jpg
brake-bleeder-001.jpg
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Unread 05-11-2013, 09:26 AM   #38
coralman
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Now for the horror story{well it was bad but not THAT bad} that occurred with the brakes after all was said and done. Gotta tell the good with the bad. On her maiden voyage to bed the pads I noticed they seemed to be dragging some. When I got back to the house I noticed the brakes seemed way too hot. I was exhausted so I parked it until the next morning and got up rebled them and ran the ABS actuation with the drb. Seemed to take care of it. Until midday on monday when they did it again. I was pissed. But moreso I was just too tired to fool with it. I was close to a shop I had used so I let them have it. Now at this point only the passenger side was dragging. Called them later and he said when they cracked the bleeder screw it released. He wanted to skim the rotor a bit too. I thought maybe the new hose was defective so I told him to put another hose on it too but save the old one.

Got it back and everything was fine. I took the old new hose and divided it in half with a razor blade and blew through it, nothing.So then I cut the fittings off each end and looked throughthe hose sections,nothing. Then I blew through the banjo fitting and out pops this 3/16ths piece of crap. Now it was too big to have made it past the female double flare on the hose. So I reasoned that it was in the hose originally or in all my slicing I created it. Jeep was fine all week.

My daughter was having dental issues{ more money taking flight} and I had tried to reach her fri night,sat morn to no avail. Sunday morning I changed the oil after battling with the oil filter coming off and decided to take her the cash. Now she lives, or so I thought, about 30 miles away one way. I could feel the grumbly level scale increasing. So I told myself it would be a nice drive ,stop for some breakfast, relax a bit. Cruised that way, radio blaring, mellowed out. Pulled up to her apartment and it was empty! Besides the WTF terror feeling I was pretty pissed. So much for the relax. Her mom lives in the same area so I called her, no answer.Steam was shooting out my ears. Hadn't been to ex's house in many a year but instantly remembered where it was. Found out Daughters phone was no more and she had her moms ....and had moved back into town a while ago. Now I talk to her usually once a week, two at the outside but she had forgot to dole out this information to me.
By that time I was so irritated that I could feel horns growing out of my scalp and I was headed to her new apt to give her some fatherly love.

Drive about a mile, come out of a redlight, and bam the driverside starts dragging. Morephine wouldn't have calmed me down. Pull over at a fish camp on a gravel drive and bleed the caliper abit. Now there is a fairly steep bridge I have to cross to get back into town and that fact is creeping me out. Drive just short of the bridge, nope still dragging. So I sit on the side of the road and let everything cool off and say F it and go. Got across pulled off on a side street and jack that wheel up. It will barely spin. At that point I admit defeat call a tow and wait an hour for him to show up.

I just towed it to P boys because they are open on sunday. Naturally they tried to hoodwink into mega bucks but I told them SKIM THE ROTOR,CHANGE THE HOSE. Couldn't happen till monday so monday morning I called to talk to the tech to give him history. Wet behind the ears girl says "I"ll be glad to relay the message". My reply was "who is paying for this repair?" I don't want to relay a message I want to talk with the tech. I thinkI scared her,lol.

So all this week all is fine . Moral to this epic novel? Take a HF micrometer and mike the rotors before you install. Even if the box says "install ready " dont trust it. Bleed some fluid straight from the steel line before you hook up the hose. Check the hoses inside and out carefully before you install. If the calipers seem too tight going on they probaly are. What was the cause? Damned if I know. I just know what fixed it. EDIT...and perhaps dont have kids.
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Unread 05-11-2013, 10:07 AM   #39
coralman
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OK, glad that story is over. Had to put all the ABS cabling and sensors back in place.Pretty self explanatory . Just be gentle with the cable and sensor cause it is mucho deniro. On this one I'm just gonna let the pics do the talking. The sensor bolt is 8mm, dont overtghten this one. 72 INCH pounds.
front-end-008.jpg front-end-065.jpg
front-end-064.jpg front-end2-039.jpg
front-end-106.jpg front-end-107.jpg
front-end-150.jpg front-end2-043.jpg
front-end-113.jpg

The sensor mounting tab {cross looking tab} goes in a hole in the knuckle.
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Unread 05-11-2013, 11:49 AM   #40
coralman
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Steering. I got lax on the nut sizes on this guys so forgive me. List for parts I didn't show the number in the pics. Tie rod tube 52087674. Draglink 52005738. Adjusting clamp 52037536. First a refresher pic of what went where when it was pulled out. Then a swipe of anti sieze on all tie rods and the threads on the draglink.
front-end2-004.jpg front-end2-001.jpg
Assemble the adjusting clamp onto the draglink and the tierod # 52005739to the adjusting clamp. Count the number of threads showing at the end of the draglink and tierod beforehand and match them to the new ones.You'll need an alignment anyways but this will get you to the shop. Install the draglink tierod to the pitman arm and torque to 60ft/lbs. Install the ball socket end of the draglink to the right knuckle and torque to 35 ft/lbs. The clamp bolts are torqued to 36 ft/lbs.
front-end2-099.jpg front-end2-098.jpg
Screw in outer left tierod # 52005741 into the tierod tube the previosly counted number of threads showing and insert the stud into the driverside knuckle. Torque to 35ft/lbs. Screw in the final inner tierod end to draglink part #52005740 with counted threads and attach the tube/tierod end to the draglink. Torque to 35 ft/lbs. I forgot to take a pic of tierod to draglink connection.
front-end2-037.jpg front-end2-036.jpg
front-end2-003.jpg
Attach the steering dampner to the centerlink and axle brackett. The mopar dampner I got had a new eyemount stud in the box. Both nuts are torqued to 55ft/lbs.
front-end2-097.jpg front-end2-100.jpg
front-end2-101.jpg
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Unread 05-11-2013, 12:27 PM   #41
coralman
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At this point I knew there was no way the trackbar axle end was going to line up and it didn't. I put the niner rims with the bridgestone duelers ecopia on with a new set of lugnuts front and rear. Took every thing off jacks and stands slowly putting it back on the ground. Torqued the lug nuts to 100ft/lbs. By turning the steering{another trick I learned from you guys} I got the track bar end to line up and with a little coaxing got the bolt back in and torqued to 55ft/lbs with a new flagnut. Tightened all the control arms, swaybar and endlink bolts to specs given. I hope I got all this correctly but realize there is many different ways to accomplish this and mine is just one path of many. Thanks to all the jeepers who taught me through the kindness of posting the ways they do stuff. Overall besides the brake incident it all went smooth and the jeep has a much firmer feel and ride. Not harsh at all.

THIS front-end-151.jpg TO THIS front-end-060.jpg
THIS front-end2-080_360x270.jpg TO THIS parting-shots-001.jpg
parting-shots-002.jpg parting-shots-003.jpg
parting-shots-004.jpg
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Unread 05-11-2013, 12:38 PM   #42
moparlover1992
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Looks really good man. Bet it feels nice to be done with all that for a long time too
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95 zj 5.2 np242 3.5'' IRO lift, IRO adjustable arms, KOR front trackbar, steering stabilizer and box brace, IRO rear adjustable trackbar, bilsteins, Hughes plenum plate, flow master 40, 31x10.5s on 15'' dc-2 rims
Mopar or no car!
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Unread 05-11-2013, 12:44 PM   #43
coralman
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Thanks Zee! I was so busy posting I didn't see your reply at first. I think I replaced it all except the pitman arm mostly cause I didn't want to make the gearbox seal start leaking and the axle tube. Shocks,swaybar stuff, lower control arm bushings,track bar ball end, and lower balljoints were trashed. Upper arm bushings on the frame end were OK, but on the axle end were starting to look rough. Upper balljoints probaly could have went a while longer. Brake stuff was junk as expected. Lol, took me an hour to get the overspray off my windshield from the black epoxy paint from the wheel wells.

Next area maybe the intake,injector exhaust but to be honest I'm just not committed to the wj manifold, apn header, 703's, and magnaflow exhaust just yet. I'm kinda torn between that and just putting stock everything back. I should be committed cause I have over 50 percent of the stuff to go the first route,but I just have a nagging feeling. I need to get the new mounts I have in this thing but it will be so much easier to do when the manifolds are removed.

Other half is going out of town to see relatives for 3 weeks and I think I'm gonna just chill awhile.
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Unread 05-11-2013, 01:07 PM   #44
coralman
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For real Mopar, not something I would like to do anytime soon. Thanks!
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Unread 05-11-2013, 01:37 PM   #45
just_urd
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Looks better/cleaner than it did out of the factory I'll bet, nice work.
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