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Unread 05-05-2013, 06:53 PM   #16
Uniblurb
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Some real good info with real good pics coralman, thanks! My next ZJ is coming from FL because of the lack of rust! Lol.

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Unread 05-06-2013, 04:03 AM   #17
coralman
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Yeah, I feel for you guys. Even here though I noticed some problem areas which were the axle track bar brackett and the stabilizer axle mounting point. Will post some more this week if at all possible. Sent you a PM.
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Unread 05-06-2013, 05:34 PM   #18
coralman
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Gonna post some reinstall. I started off easy,with the spring cushion, repainted jounce bumper cup and the bumper. The bumper just pops into the cup and wasn't as difficult to get in as the rear axle bumper was.

front-end-026.jpg front-end-030.jpg

front-end2-069.jpg front-end-041.jpg

Then I reinstalled the balljoints using the press and the other two cups in the set. One of the cups is lower on one side than the other. This helps you drive the joint in straight in relation to the knuckle. No window on the long cup for install so check your progress and make sure its pressing in correctly. I thought I had done mine wrong because the lower joint protrudes a bit out of the knuckle when pressed all the way in at the front of the balljoint opening. When I compared to the unremoved side it was the same so I let it go. The upper joint had a space between the knuckle and the boot after I pressed it in which at first worried me, but then I remembered Rat saying it would settle in with vehicle weight and it did. I used just a very small amount of assembly lube on the bodies to minimize binding.

front-end-056.jpg front-end2-009.jpg remove boots
part number

front-end-055.jpg front-end-070.jpg install upper
install lower

front-end-061.jpg front-end-071.jpg reinstall boots
dont forget the cable clip
later on when you install
knuckle

Refer back to the the KD tool pics instuction sheet if you get confused.
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Unread 05-06-2013, 06:17 PM   #19
coralman
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On to the trackbar.Installed the bar to the frame brackett outside of the vehicle and reattached to frame as an assembly. It was a moog bar and it had a clevite bushing in the axle end. No wollering in the through holes at either end bracketts. As mentioned above I stripped the axle bolt taking it out, most likely because I was too"duh" to try to jack the bar up or down to relieve pressure. Luckily a bolt I think went to a upper arm worked. Used a new flagnut when I did attach the axle end later on. The 2 18mm outer frame brackett nuts are torqued to 90 lbs. The 2 18mm under frame bolts are torqued to 70 lbs. The 1/2 20 ballstud nut is torqued to 60 lbs. The 15mm axle end bolt is torqued to 55lbs. Foot pounds.

front-end2-072.jpg front-end2-071.jpg

front-end-076.jpg front-end-077.jpg

front-end-098.jpg

For a pic of the under frame brackett attachment bolts just look back in the removal section. I left the track bar axle end loose till I got it back on the ground.
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Unread 05-07-2013, 04:34 PM   #20
coralman
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Reinstall the springs, new arms to frame and axle. Didn't take alot of pics on this one. I was running out of steam by this time. I installed complete arms cause I just didn't want to have to press the bushings out and in. Part numbers for the upper arms 52087711 and lower 53088312. Used new bolts were I could. Remember not to final torque until the jeep is back on the ground and bushings have vehicle weight on 'em. I had to jockey stuff around to get the arms to line up in some cases and have a pic of a rig involving a crabtrap line, a minisledge,and the front towhook, if I didn't delete them. The old front axle end upper bolt{ the torx one} part was subbed to the same part number from the frame end. No torx. New number for that bolt is in the pics. Nut numbers are 6502696 . I ordered the cam bolt washer on the nut side but couldn't get them so reused them.

front-end-136_360x270.jpg front-end-132.jpg
front-end2-015_360x270.jpg front-end-139_360x270.jpg
front-end-140_360x270.jpg front-end-011.jpg


front-end-131.jpg front-end-135.jpg
front-end-137_360x270.jpg

Upper arm bolts are 15mm and torqued to 55 foot pounds.
Lower arm bolts are best as I can tell 13/16. the axle end is torqued to 85 foot pounds and the frame end 130.
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Unread 05-07-2013, 04:55 PM   #21
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Looking forward to seeing the finished product. Good write up.
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Unread 05-07-2013, 05:14 PM   #22
coralman
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Thanks! I appreciate it. More coming.
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Unread 05-07-2013, 06:00 PM   #23
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Installed the spring retainer. On the driverside that went without a hitch. On the passenger side the threads in the hole were iffy and I stripped them. Watch out for this its easy to do. Soooo, I drilled and tapped to the next bigger size. Installed the endlinks with new bolts.Endlink part number 52088437. I had repainted the sway bar and bushing caps and installed those with new bushings.
front-end2-038.jpg front-end-114.jpg

Endlink bolt is t55 torx with a 18mm nut torqued to 70 ft/lbs. Upper endlink nut is 15mm torqued to 45 ft /lbs. Bushing caps on bar are 15mm and torqued to 40 ft/lbs I assembled the bar to the links loosely and didn't tighten anything until it was on the ground. This endlink setup was used late 97-98 I believe. Don't know why the pic did the thumbnail thing.
front-end-060.jpg  
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Unread 05-07-2013, 06:40 PM   #24
coralman
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Well shoot, I just erased about 30 minutes worth of work by hitting the wrong button.
Time to call it quits for 2nite.
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Unread 05-08-2013, 06:38 PM   #25
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Try again. Installed the shocks bottom mount only because the axle was still low and the body still on stands and I didn't want to hang the axle on the shocks.They were Monroe Reflex and seemed to be good as I had them on the rear already. I got them with a rebate too so that influenced abit. For info only they are running a rebate now I believe. They changed part numbers along the line somewhere so I included both. Old number was 911081 and new is 37081. When I got stuff back on the ground I installed the washers and bushings anf tightened the top nut with the flex wrench. Bottom bolts are 13mm torqued to 250 inch pounds,yep inch. Upper nut was 14mm and torqued to 17 ft/lbs.

Installed the knuckle loosely on the balljoint studs while I looked through the now mountain of sockets.Before you torque the upper nut remember to install the abs cable brackett or you'll be pulling it back off like I did. Upper 22mm nut torqued to 75ft/lb and lower 1 1/8 torqued to 80 ft/lb. On castlenuts if your slot for the cotter pin doesn't line up after torque then go a little farther but not back. I put a light coat of antisieze at the mouth of the knuckle and on the spline of the stub shaft. Don't forget to transfer your steering stop bolts from the old knuckles to the new ones
front-end-002.jpg front-end-016_360x270.jpg left knuckle part#
front-end-020_360x270.jpg front-end-088_360x270.jpg
front-end-104_360x270.jpg steering stop bolt front-end2-002.jpg

I didn't take a pic of the right knuckle part # 52067576
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Unread 05-09-2013, 12:15 PM   #26
moparlover1992
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Looking good man. Mine will be basically all new up front too I like the silver/black contrast look you've got going there. All mine I did just black and while it looks good (and way better than rusty brown), yours makes a statement. Nice work
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95 zj 5.2 np242 3.5'' IRO lift, IRO adjustable arms, KOR front trackbar, steering stabilizer and box brace, IRO rear adjustable trackbar, bilsteins, Hughes plenum plate, flow master 40, 31x10.5s on 15'' dc-2 rims
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Unread 05-09-2013, 01:25 PM   #27
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Looks good man, good write up on this stuff. Nice to have.
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Unread 05-09-2013, 04:21 PM   #28
coralman
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Thanks! Not done posting yet. The next part is hub/brakes and if memory serves I have quite few pics to sort through. I'm just too pooped to do it tonight. I'm just a project kind of person. If I don't have one I'm likely to get into trouble.. Learned all I know from these guys and hours pressed into this screen and the FSM. Couldn't have done it without the jeepers here!
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Unread 05-09-2013, 04:37 PM   #29
moparlover1992
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coralman View Post
Thanks! Not done posting yet. The next part is hub/brakes and if memory serves I have quite few pics to sort through. I'm just too pooped to do it tonight. I'm just a project kind of person. If I don't have one I'm likely to get into trouble.. Learned all I know from these guys and hours pressed into this screen and the FSM. Couldn't have done it without the jeepers here!
I'm the same way lol. I'll be following this thread to see the finished product.
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95 zj 5.2 np242 3.5'' IRO lift, IRO adjustable arms, KOR front trackbar, steering stabilizer and box brace, IRO rear adjustable trackbar, bilsteins, Hughes plenum plate, flow master 40, 31x10.5s on 15'' dc-2 rims
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Unread 05-09-2013, 07:30 PM   #30
coralman
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Well,I felt guilty doing nothing so here goes. Locate your new or reused hub bolts, splash shield and hub with attaching hardware. I know some will think I had went ape a**ed crazy paying for mopar hubs. It all revolved around some things I read about Timken plants relocating to dirt other than ours, some failure rates I wasn't comfortable with, and a discussion I had with my mopar dude. A comment he made about that if I was thinking timken I might as well get the mopar value line. This kinda threw me over line cause 35 years ago the name in bearings when I was working parts was Timken. I trust this dude cause we have become pretty good friends, he sends me pics of his newborn daughter,almost like I,m family and he is a hoot. So I dumped the cash.

I failed to get a good pic of the backing plates and posistion of them so take note when you take them off. The cutout will follow the shape of the caliper.Put the bolts through the knuckle ,plate, and screw them loosely in the hub. insert the stub shaft carefully so you don't knick the tone ring. Tighten the hub bolts snug and torque in stages.Final torque of the 13mm 12 point bolts is 75 foot pounds. Final torque of the 36mm hub nut is175 foot pounds. Only part numbers I didn;t get pics of were the splash shields or weasel gaurds whatever you want to call them,lol. 52005476 is the right side and 52005477 the right. I used my HF mama jama torque wrench to do the hub nut. In the pic I show using the tire iron to lock the hub for tightening but I bent it. I wound up using the yellow bar pictured earlier. Don't forget on the hub ...washer, nut,wave washer,nut lock, cotter pin.
resize-hub-.jpg front-end-084.jpg

front-end-091.jpg front-end-101.jpg

front-end-103.jpg front-end-037.jpg
front-end-087.jpg  
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