After seeing the steam mist and an upsurge in freon use I figured it was time to do this. I followed Ifly's thread to get it out and other than the spring locks on the refrigeration lines it went smoothly. My plan was and is to get the heat back functional and hook up the new evaporator after I rework the a/c system under the hood. I took plenty of pics and attacked it as far as content of this like I was a newb, since I was.
I had about 25 minutes of posting done last night when JF timed me out and I lost all the post,lol. So This will a follow along kind of thing cause I don't want to do that again. Here's the link to Ifly's post, he did a good job of it. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/3...-98-a-1398459/
Mine is for a manual control version. I did not want to dead end during the course of this repair so as usuall I ordered a bunch of parts, but wound up using some of the original as well. Posted parts breakdown so you can familiarize your self with the parts. As you can see, it needed to be done
Pulled the fan motor by removing 3 screws and wiggled the cooling hose out of the motor. disconnected the white connector in the pic.
Remove the recirculating air housing from the assy.Four screws attach the housing. Disconnect the red vac line fom the actuator with a twisting motion. I put the screws I took out in the whole project back in the holes so I wouldn't them.
Go ahead and pull the heater core after removing the two clamps. A slight rocking motion while pulling seemed to get it out easier.
Vacumn harness removal. These pics will be used as a reference to reinstall them. Eyeball the routing, there are little body clamps that hold the harness in place. Be gentle removing the lines, you don't want to break one. I had a new one ordered but it got sent back from the dealer by mistake so I was stuck with the old one. We took it loose from the actuator in the previous step. remove it from the "S" tracks that hold it in place on the box. It then dives down the box of the box into a little clamp by the heater core lines.
Be sure to give that black vac supply line a close inspection,it's the one that always breaks. The brown, green and yellow lines are the next ones.Disconnect them from the actuators with a twisting motion. Note which line goes where.
They go over the housing by the suction line exit through one of the little clamps and then run down the front through another clamp. Remove them gently.
Electrical harness removal.Disconnect the resistor plug and remove the resistor. The harness takes off up the back of the box where it would virtually impossible to replace if you ever had to,lol. It will travel over the top in a valley next to where the recirculating box wasand back down to the front. Take the black plug off the housing where it slides onto a tang.Same with the white plug. Take the wire run loose from the housing that goes to the actuator motor,the one with the foam, and unplug it from the motor. Leave the motor in place for now.
Vent doors,levers and actuators. Note all posistions of the doors, levers and actuators where you can. The pics are pretty complete so if you forget you can refer back. Take the actuators loose one at a time and rotate them where they slide off the small tits on the end of the levers. The tits have a flat spot on them that will allow actuator to slide off when they are aligned.The vent door will be the first one we deal with.
The vent door actuator is the one on the lower left in the first pic.With the door in this posistion the lever will look like this in the third pic.
With the door in this posistion the lever will look like this.
Take a flat prying object and pry the door clip/lever out from the door. This is what it looks like once out.
Push the door to the right and lift it out of the hole in the housing. The foam looked pretty bad on both sides.
With the housing split, you can see the temp/mode door and the floor defrost door, which is actually two pieces. The smaller door attaches to the larger one but you'll see that later on. The posistions you see are the actuator off posistions if that makes any difference. Take the two large mounting screws on the actuator motor and remove it and the door.
The floor/defroster door actuator is shown in the pic. Two screws and rotate if you haven't already removed it. You can see the "flats" on the tit in the pic. You can also see the tiny locater tang that snaps into the end of the door shaft. You will have to pry this tang out to remove the door. Most likely it will break off as mine did. So if you order no other lever, order this one.
The fresh air/recycle housing is next. Rotate the white clip away from the actuator rod to unlock it. Remove the two mounting screws. The white round clip to the right at the bottom holds the door in the housing. It will have to be pried out, but mine gave me a fit and would not release so I had to break chunks of it off until I could get it out of the housing enough to free the door up enough to remove it. The door will slide to the left,up, and out once this is done. The evap core should be able to be removed at this point by pulling it out of the housing. If there is any of the styrofoam insulator left at the bottom underneath it gently remove it. Clean the housing up. I left the remnants of foam adhesive in place while cleaning to give indication of where to put the new foam on the openings. It will be easy to remove later on. Tommorrow night I will post the reassembly.