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Unread 01-21-2012, 05:18 PM   #91
two98ZJs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hdrocknroll View Post
Clarification, One resistor is required for each LED light bulb
Roger that! One Resistor per LED bulb.


CoralMan; " If the radio has the ccd bus hooked to it the radio automatically sets VIC time."

The VIC time is to the second in-sinc w/the radio clock so it must be ccd bussed w/the radio. ccd??
Thks. Allen.

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Unread 01-22-2012, 03:45 AM   #92
coralman
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yep. What size resistor is used?
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Unread 01-22-2012, 04:22 AM   #93
hdrocknroll
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6 Ohm,
Here is just one place,you can get them, many places on ebay, or amazon,to

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...dresistor.html

Another

http://www.v-leds.com/LED-Load-Resistors/c122488-1-3/

Some Info

http://reviews.ebay.com/Load-Resisto...00000010793386
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Unread 01-22-2012, 06:50 PM   #94
two98ZJs
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Thanks hdRockNroll, This resistor fits the ticket. I've used this eBay site before on LED orders. Finding a good place to mt the resistors is the task.
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Unread 01-25-2012, 11:58 AM   #95
jcal1984
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Coolant sensor bad fixed

Just want to say thanks for this forum there's some real knowledgeable guys on here couldn't have done it without you I pulled my vic out soldered it problem solved I had five badpoints but not anymore by the way I can't solder for **** but with some patience anyone could do it also for the guys that think it's hard or time consuming not at all took 2 hours to complete about an hour involved trying to find a magnify glass
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Unread 04-30-2012, 12:08 PM   #96
97jeepgcowner
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Thank you thank you thank you!!!!!

I have had the same problem for YEARS!!!! And NO ONE knew how to fix!!! Once I read your post?!?!? It took less than an hour!!! U ROCK!!!!!
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Unread 04-30-2012, 12:25 PM   #97
johncsmith711
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I need to do this!
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Unread 05-06-2012, 06:36 PM   #98
johng1
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Many thanks to the OP for this fix. I did the resolder fix last weekend on my 97 GC and the problem is history. Without this post I doubt the problem could have ever been solved me myself or my dealer. There is a fairly good write up on this forum here http://bit.ly/IGes8R for those who have yet to attack this issue.
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Unread 06-16-2012, 08:23 AM   #99
katyweb
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Thanks for this. Had the "coolant sensor bad" message come up. First replaced the sensor in the reservior (easy and cheap) and still got message. Moved on to the resoldering of the vic and that worked like a charm. No more message. Resoldered all the other pointts while there. Thanks again for this~real time and $ saver.
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Unread 06-24-2012, 07:50 AM   #100
MartinBDK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johng1 View Post
Many thanks to the OP for this fix. I did the resolder fix last weekend on my 97 GC and the problem is history. Without this post I doubt the problem could have ever been solved me myself or my dealer. There is a fairly good write up on this forum here http://bit.ly/IGes8R for those who have yet to attack this issue.
Im in the exactly same situation, so thanks, OP
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Unread 06-28-2012, 01:49 PM   #101
jeepmama73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phild328 View Post
This is for a 96 Grand - others may be different or not.
Ok, like others I had the annoying "Coolant sensor bad" message on the vic most of the time. And the beeping while you drive - you think a door opened up or something. I've been working on fixing it for what seems like forever. First I didn't know much about the jeep and had no resources. So the coolant level sensor was replaced along with the coolant temp sensor for the PCM.
So the truth is: This message is generated by the coolant level sensor. It is directly wired to the VIC and the VIC is the only thing that uses it. So it really doesn't matter at all. It is just a dumb warning light.
Ok, so how do you fix. I'll bet most of the problems are exactly like mine, but I'll go over the easy stuff first. And Jeep should pay for it because it is a shotty manufacturing flaw. But before I reveal the secret, lets make sure your problem isn't a simple one.
Take the coolant level sensor out and unplug it. First test the sensor. Put an ohm meter accross it and when you push up on the float (as if there is plenty of coolant) it should read 3.3K ohms - or close to, mine is 3.2K. Then let the float drop and you should get closed condition (near 0 ohms).
Now put the ohm meter on the connector from the jeep. First connect it to the black wire terminal. And put the other side of your ohmmeter to a good ground (like the battery term). Should be close to 0 ohm.
Put the sensor back together and plug it in. Give a spray of contact cleaner while you are there. Under the drivers dash, there is a plastic cover near the ODBII connector. Pop it off. There is a orange and white connector that is fairly large, it has 20 wires I believe. Pull it out and find the pink with black stripe wire (same color as at the coolant sensor). Measure resistance between it and a good ground. It should be 3.3Kohm (as long as you have enough coolant in your reserve tank). Spray with contact cleaner and put back together if all is good.
Of course if any of the above is bad, fix the wiring or the sensor. But my guess is it is good. So here comes the fun part.
Tear apart the dash and remove the VIC. Look somewhere else for a dash removal inst. Basically remove the glove box and the panel around it and the panel around the VIC, with two screws behind the ash tray.
Unplug the VIC and take to the bench. Open it up (need torx bit). Get the circuit board out. On the connector - look for your pink with black stripe wire and match to the pin on the circuit board. Then look on the back and look at the solder joint. If you have a magnifying glass or good light - you'll probably see what I saw - a bad solder joint (cracked at the connector pin). Its neighbors may be bad also. Use a soldering iron and reflow with a little new solder. Do the others while you are in there. Put everything back together and enjoy beep-free driving.

Now I get to go rub it into the stealership - since they had no clue what the message even meant. I thought they would know how to fix it - yeah right. If you want it done, you gotta do it yourself.

This is very helpful cause I just replaced the Thermostat and the houseing as well at a new cap and sensor due to it constantly beeping at me! That was 2 weekends ago and it is still beeping at me! After reading this I now have a better idea what to do to get it to stop! I was starting to think maybe a fuse was bad somewhere and went through my owners manual and jeep repair book! I got my jeep back in November as an even trade for my Dodge Durango! The only issues my jeep had was my tailgate and driverside passenger door in the back would not open! Since then both of them have been fixed! The engine is pretty clean for a 96 and it runs great! I do have plans of getting a 2 to 3 inch lift and putting some 31's maybe 33's on on it! It is now a project jeep for me and my husband to do!
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Unread 07-13-2012, 12:24 AM   #102
zachjf
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Mine just started popping the "coolant sensor bad" msg, thought it might be the actual sensor but the problem comes and goes randomly plus the actual sensor tested out ok. I cant really complain, its the first real issue my Jeep has ever had besides a squeaking idler pulley, not bad for 208k, 24k of those I put on it
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Unread 07-13-2012, 11:25 PM   #103
allenalthor
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Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by phild328 View Post
This is for a 96 Grand - others may be different or not.
Ok, like others I had the annoying "Coolant sensor bad" message on the vic most of the time. And the beeping while you drive - you think a door opened up or something. I've been working on fixing it for what seems like forever. First I didn't know much about the jeep and had no resources. So the coolant level sensor was replaced along with the coolant temp sensor for the PCM.
So the truth is: This message is generated by the coolant level sensor. It is directly wired to the VIC and the VIC is the only thing that uses it. So it really doesn't matter at all. It is just a dumb warning light.
Ok, so how do you fix. I'll bet most of the problems are exactly like mine, but I'll go over the easy stuff first. And Jeep should pay for it because it is a shotty manufacturing flaw. But before I reveal the secret, lets make sure your problem isn't a simple one.
Take the coolant level sensor out and unplug it. First test the sensor. Put an ohm meter accross it and when you push up on the float (as if there is plenty of coolant) it should read 3.3K ohms - or close to, mine is 3.2K. Then let the float drop and you should get closed condition (near 0 ohms).
Now put the ohm meter on the connector from the jeep. First connect it to the black wire terminal. And put the other side of your ohmmeter to a good ground (like the battery term). Should be close to 0 ohm.
Put the sensor back together and plug it in. Give a spray of contact cleaner while you are there. Under the drivers dash, there is a plastic cover near the ODBII connector. Pop it off. There is a orange and white connector that is fairly large, it has 20 wires I believe. Pull it out and find the pink with black stripe wire (same color as at the coolant sensor). Measure resistance between it and a good ground. It should be 3.3Kohm (as long as you have enough coolant in your reserve tank). Spray with contact cleaner and put back together if all is good.
Of course if any of the above is bad, fix the wiring or the sensor. But my guess is it is good. So here comes the fun part.
Tear apart the dash and remove the VIC. Look somewhere else for a dash removal inst. Basically remove the glove box and the panel around it and the panel around the VIC, with two screws behind the ash tray.
Unplug the VIC and take to the bench. Open it up (need torx bit). Get the circuit board out. On the connector - look for your pink with black stripe wire and match to the pin on the circuit board. Then look on the back and look at the solder joint. If you have a magnifying glass or good light - you'll probably see what I saw - a bad solder joint (cracked at the connector pin). Its neighbors may be bad also. Use a soldering iron and reflow with a little new solder. Do the others while you are in there. Put everything back together and enjoy beep-free driving.

Now I get to go rub it into the dealership - since they had no clue what the message even meant. I thought they would know how to fix it - yeah right. If you want it done, you gotta do it yourself.
Thank you. I didn't know this was a problem for many people. I have been trying to figure it our for a while now. I will definitely try the connection solution because I have similar problems with other electrical components also, eg., dome light, dash lights intermittent, just a bunch of crap I can't explain. At least it gives me a viable avenue to pursue. Let you know what happens! -- Allenalthor
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Unread 07-13-2012, 11:28 PM   #104
allenalthor
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Thanks

Thank you. I didn't know this was a problem for many people. I have been trying to figure it our for a while now. Would this create a situation that would allow for the coolant temp' to overheat? I will definitely try the connection solution because I have similar problems with other electrical components also, eg., dome light, dash lights intermittent, just a bunch of crap I can't explain. At least it gives me a viable avenue to pursue. Let you know what happens! -- Allenalthor
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Unread 07-13-2012, 11:36 PM   #105
Canyon411
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allenalthor View Post
Thank you. I didn't know this was a problem for many people. I have been trying to figure it our for a while now. Would this create a situation that would allow for the coolant temp' to overheat? I will definitely try the connection solution because I have similar problems with other electrical components also, eg., dome light, dash lights intermittent, just a bunch of crap I can't explain. At least it gives me a viable avenue to pursue. Let you know what happens! -- Allenalthor
VIC's are notorious for issues like these. I did manage to find a mint one at a local j/y that cured my issues and was in immaculate condition to replace my scrated faded one.

Any favorite wheelin' trails near you? Been meaning to do some exploring over that way one of these days ....
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