I am planning on doing both the front and rear control arm bushings, and was wondering what tool I will need to get the job done? I've read threads and watched videos to where people used a hammer, ball joint press, and other methods, but I would rather not struggle with it and just get the right tool. Thanks.
I suppose the perfectly correct method would be to take them to a friend who has a press ( as in a machine shop, motorcycle, boat dealer, etc.)....press the old ones out and press the new ones in, except for the uppers on the differential end, obviously. That's probably what I'd do if I had already bought the bushings. As for the uppers, on the axle side, there are some youtube videos that will help out.
Or maybe you could fashion your own makeshift press using a bottle jack and a little creativity in your garage. A heat source would help too.
That works too, although I've never been a proponent of banging on parts unless I have to. I'm more of a "finesse" type of guy....but realize it's not always possible....so when I DO beat on a part.....I hit it very hard with the biggest freaking hammer I can find. I dont jack around with it.
http://s347.photobucket.com/user/one...05125.mp4.html by newfieZJ who basically breaks the seal the rust has created between the bushing and the arm (with a BFH) and then smacks it on a solid piece of something (anvil would be awesome). When you can't push them any farther just by bashing them on a block, you wedge something in the arm so it doesn't fold it in on itself, and then use another BFH to beat the bushing out completely. Reverse to install the new bushings.
When I did my 4 lowers, I destroyed a 4x4, I beat on it so much that it eventually just broke apart. So I went to a tree stump with the arms and beat them as hard as I could to get those bushings out. I ended up needing to use a cinderblock too, and looking back I wish I had just bought new arms. It wasn't easy, and really hurt my arms. Partially because I did it during winter, and partially because it felt like smacking a metal baseball bat against a streetsign.
1996 Grand Cherokee Limited 4.0L
PSC Steering Gear; NP249 w/ new VC; Moog TRE's, Track Bar, Stabilizer bar bushings and endlinks, control arm bushings
Still no lift, and almost no paint on the hood
I haven't tried it yet but to do my axle housing bushings in going to try to use a ball joint press.
In theory......one side with the biggest fitting in the press set,something the old bushing can fit into, and the bolt head side of the press with something that is the same diameter as the bushing (a tad smaller though obviously to press it into the axle.
Now i know someone who is reading this is thinking that there will be no way to turn a wrench/breaker bar hard enough to press it out. I agree, if it's an original bushing. My impact should do the trick though. gotta love pneumatic tools.
I will still soak the bushing with pb blaster before doing this though.
The same principle should work with each arms bushing, provided that you.out some sort to spacer in the arm to prevent it from folding.
Now if this method won't work someone please enlighten me before I mess a.perfectly good axle up when I finally do mine.
Dana 35c behind a 242, behind an AW-4, behind a 4.0L Inline Six sitting over a Dana 30, all turning stock 215/75/15 tires and moving a 93 Grand Cherokee to places your truck only dreams of.