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Unread 07-11-2009, 09:59 PM   #1
alexdfh
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1993 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 7
Cleaned Tb With Carb Cleaner Now Runs Rough!!!!!

ok so i cleaned the tb with some regular carb cleaner and my idle went super high. well i fixed the idle by a new iac but it still runs rough, especially when cold???? also does anyone know what the amp gauge is supposed to read , when i have the ac on at idle it drops way low and idle goes way down????

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Unread 07-11-2009, 10:57 PM   #2
xJoshxx
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Location: Burlington, Kentucky
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did you unplug the battery when replacing the IAC?
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Unread 07-11-2009, 11:30 PM   #3
Some_Anchovies
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1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Middle, Tennessee
Posts: 362
Ever replace your motor mounts?

If not, take a look at them. It it looks cracked, or dry at all, then they probably need replacing.

I tried everything to get the idle to not be rough (idle was worse in gear, which explains the bad mounts). I finally caved and had a diagnostic done. Everything checked out. They said the engine ran great, but I'm gonna want to replace my motor mounts soon (and while I'm at it I might as well change the tranny mount). They said I pretty much replaced and did everything that could have to diagnose a rough Idle, and preventative maintenance. Compression tests, vacuum test, new spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, o2 sensor, idle air control, air filter, fuel filter, cleaned throttle body, vacuum lines, ccv orifice, new tranny fluid and filter, thermostat, for the idle, and many other parts that just went out (probably from the engine's violent shaking at idle) like the water pump, and starter. I'd also replaced other misc parts like the serpentine belt, shocks, and differential flush and change, and recent oil and filter change, and lubed the chassis.

I just got done putting on the mounts today. Holy crap. It literally feels like a new vehicle. engine is nice and quiet, no vibrations at all come from the vehicle, and when I shift it in gear, omg. Heaven.

When you start it, does it shake the vehicle a bit whenever the engine cranks to life? when it's in gear, does the rough idle get worse? It's probably the mounts. They told me that the 4.0 is a very unbalanced engine, and when the mounts go bad, every little part of the unbalancedness gets transferred to the body. It can seem as though it's misfiring intermittently, even though vacuum tests and compression tests say otherwise. After I replaced the mounts the "phantom misfire" was gone, no rough idle, no shakes, no vibes.

If not, what have you done to try and diagnose the problem? Is there oil on your air filter? if so, your CCV orifice is clogged, and needs cleaned or replaced. That can cause a rough idle. You've already replaced the IAC, so it can't be that. You could have bad compression from worn piston rings, but you could have other problems with that. fuel filter could be clogged, o2 could be wigging out, sometimes platinum plugs in the 4.0 can cause some problems and you could switch to new coppers to try that. New ignition coil, wireset, distributor cap, and rotor can fix a lot of problems. Check your engine for codes. All an engine needs is Air, spark, and fuel to run, and to run right, it needs good spark, and the correct fuel and air mixture at the right timing. So try and eliminate it down to one and go from there. if you've replaced the dist cap, rotor, coil, wires, and plugs, and that all checks out, you can worry about whether it's fuel or air related.

The best way for diagnosing this kind of stuff if a compression test and vacuum test. they show a lot about what the engine is doing.
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Unread 07-12-2009, 08:24 AM   #4
alexdfh
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1993 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 7
thank you for the info and yes i do have bad motor mounts on my 5.2 i bet that is all that it is, she shifts rough sometimes and you can watch the exhaust move when it idles, i will get those and let know how goes it, oh and yeppers i surely did unplug the battery when i did iac i actually bought one and took it back for another seemed to work a bit better then the first one
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Unread 07-12-2009, 12:50 PM   #5
MEinSoCal
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2001 WJ 
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 1,432
Quote:
Originally Posted by Some_Anchovies View Post
Ever replace your motor mounts?

If not, take a look at them. It it looks cracked, or dry at all, then they probably need replacing.

I tried everything to get the idle to not be rough (idle was worse in gear, which explains the bad mounts). I finally caved and had a diagnostic done. Everything checked out. They said the engine ran great, but I'm gonna want to replace my motor mounts soon (and while I'm at it I might as well change the tranny mount). They said I pretty much replaced and did everything that could have to diagnose a rough Idle, and preventative maintenance. Compression tests, vacuum test, new spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, o2 sensor, idle air control, air filter, fuel filter, cleaned throttle body, vacuum lines, ccv orifice, new tranny fluid and filter, thermostat, for the idle, and many other parts that just went out (probably from the engine's violent shaking at idle) like the water pump, and starter. I'd also replaced other misc parts like the serpentine belt, shocks, and differential flush and change, and recent oil and filter change, and lubed the chassis.

I just got done putting on the mounts today. Holy crap. It literally feels like a new vehicle. engine is nice and quiet, no vibrations at all come from the vehicle, and when I shift it in gear, omg. Heaven.

When you start it, does it shake the vehicle a bit whenever the engine cranks to life? when it's in gear, does the rough idle get worse? It's probably the mounts. They told me that the 4.0 is a very unbalanced engine, and when the mounts go bad, every little part of the unbalancedness gets transferred to the body. It can seem as though it's misfiring intermittently, even though vacuum tests and compression tests say otherwise. After I replaced the mounts the "phantom misfire" was gone, no rough idle, no shakes, no vibes.

If not, what have you done to try and diagnose the problem? Is there oil on your air filter? if so, your CCV orifice is clogged, and needs cleaned or replaced. That can cause a rough idle. You've already replaced the IAC, so it can't be that. You could have bad compression from worn piston rings, but you could have other problems with that. fuel filter could be clogged, o2 could be wigging out, sometimes platinum plugs in the 4.0 can cause some problems and you could switch to new coppers to try that. New ignition coil, wireset, distributor cap, and rotor can fix a lot of problems. Check your engine for codes. All an engine needs is Air, spark, and fuel to run, and to run right, it needs good spark, and the correct fuel and air mixture at the right timing. So try and eliminate it down to one and go from there. if you've replaced the dist cap, rotor, coil, wires, and plugs, and that all checks out, you can worry about whether it's fuel or air related.

The best way for diagnosing this kind of stuff if a compression test and vacuum test. they show a lot about what the engine is doing.
where did you get the mounts from and how much? also how long was the install for both motor mounts? any special tools and tips to the install?
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Unread 07-12-2009, 09:50 PM   #6
Some_Anchovies
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1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Middle, Tennessee
Posts: 362
For my 95' 4.0L ZJ, I bought the Motor Mounts at Autozone. They were 41.99 for the passenger side, and 43.99 for the drivers side.

I haven't put the tranny mount on yet, but that one was 29.99.

Tools. Well you're gonna need a REALLY long extension (I used 2 put together) for the easiest job. The engine mounts use an 18mm bolt and nut for the slot, that goes inside of the mount, so you'll need 2 18mm's, and the other bolts that hold the mount to the frame are 15's. There's one bolt on the drivers side mount (towards the firewall), that you can't use a socket on. The steering gets in the way. you'll have to use a box end, or something. My drivers side was a pain. Your gonna want to remove the airbox, which is just 3, 13mm or 1/2in bolts with nuts on the bottom. There's also a heat shield cover thing held on by one bolt that covers the steering shaft. Take that off too. But the new mount was slightly wider than the old one, so I had to hammer it in, and it went in crooked, so It took a while to get it forced in where I could bolt it to the frame. I had to use a screw driver through the threaded hole and slot on the mount to push and hold the mount to where it would stay in the correct position above the threaded holes to put the bolts through. The passenger side just dropped right in, but the bolts wouldn't line up, I could get 3, but the forth was too hard. I'll reset it in due time, but since the 4th bolt wasn't really needed, I bolted the two top ones and then one side bolt. I found that if it drops in, you can just bolt it to the frame first, and then lower or raise the engine to get it to line up, and then put the through bolt in. Otherwise the through bolt goes first if you gotta hammer it, because it's too snug, and will tip crooked (like my driver's side) The passenger side is definitely the easiest. Most people say about 1.5-3 hours for the job, but mine took longer. I ran into problems with the holes not lining up, and having to use a second jack cause the first one wasn't tall enough.

When you Jack it up, get the jack as high as possible. A cinder block works, but a board on top of that is even better. You'll want to jack it up on the frontal part of the pan, and not the back end (lower end), as there's more area, and put a board on there to spread the burden. As centralized as possible on the pan to even it out as best, but the pan essentially has 2 parts, the lower back part and taller front, and you'll want to shoot for the front.

Your engine is gonna be sitting low with the old mounts, so you'll need an extra 3 inches of jacking for the new mounts to line up. Save time and get that jack up as high as possible. Use anti-sieze or something on the bolts. Who knows how long it will be before the next mount change.

i probably forgot something, but I'll post it if I remember.
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