Check engine Evap code - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 29 Old 02-08-2016, 10:13 PM Thread Starter
Football47
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Okay, thanks for the advice, I'll look at those connections as well soon. So when I have this all fixed up, when will my jeep know it's fixed and turn the check engine light off?


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post #17 of 29 Old 02-09-2016, 02:25 AM
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Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery which should remove the fault codes and reset the PCM. That code shouldn't reappear if your evap system is working correctly and maybe even your tape job is a temp fix.

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post #18 of 29 Old 02-09-2016, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
Football47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uniblurb
Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery which should remove the fault codes and reset the PCM. That code shouldn't reappear if your evap system is working correctly and maybe even your tape job is a temp fix.
I know of this method but I was wondering if it would do it on its own. Not with my help.

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post #19 of 29 Old 02-09-2016, 07:19 PM
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it will eventually turn the CEL off. Not sure but I think it's 3 full warm-up / cool-down cycles.


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post #20 of 29 Old 02-11-2016, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
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It was the piece I fixed, code is gone and thanks for the help!

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post #21 of 29 Old 10-09-2016, 11:07 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kg6mov
Yeah, only CA emissions jeeps have the LDP, so only CA emissions jeeps can pop the code. Fed emissions doesn't monitor the evap system at all, you could rip it out and the computer would be none the wiser.
so I could actually just disconnect the purge solenoid, ldp, and that's all I'd have to do and no codes?

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post #22 of 29 Old 10-09-2016, 08:04 PM
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No, if you an LDP then it would throw a code.

If you are a federal emissions and don't have an LDP then you could remove it assuming it's a trailer queen that doesn't get driven on public roads.


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post #23 of 29 Old 10-10-2016, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kg6mov
No, if you an LDP then it would throw a code. If you are a federal emissions and don't have an LDP then you could remove it assuming it's a trailer queen that doesn't get driven on public roads.
Yeah well that doesn't help because it's a daily driver...

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post #24 of 29 Old 10-11-2016, 07:56 AM
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I was surprised by that particular hose on the carbon cannister on mine. Looks like mopar used regular vacuum hose instead of fuel resistant hose. Reason? The nipple on the cannister is a good bit larger than the actual size of the line. They needed something soft to be able to stretch it over the cannister nipple. Fuel line is a good bit stiffer. Guess they didn't want to spend the dough on another custom hose.

I found a little vacuum adapter in the help section at Advance where I could couple the larger nipple to fuel hose then to the smaller line.

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post #25 of 29 Old 10-16-2016, 10:37 AM Thread Starter
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So, I have still not figured out the problem. When I reset the check engine, it doesn't come on for a few days. It's not the purge solenoid, and I don't see any leaks in the lines. I didn't see any charcoal dust in the old purge solenoid.my locking gas cap is three years old, it couldn't possibly be that? I've inspected it and it seems to be OK.

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post #26 of 29 Old 10-17-2016, 11:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Football47 View Post
So, I have still not figured out the problem. When I reset the check engine, it doesn't come on for a few days. It's not the purge solenoid, and I don't see any leaks in the lines. I didn't see any charcoal dust in the old purge solenoid.my locking gas cap is three years old, it couldn't possibly be that? I've inspected it and it seems to be OK.
Do a smoke test (aka cigar test). That's the only way you'll be able to visually see where the leak is at. The gas cap is often the problem. You might as well throw 10 bucks at a new cap to see if it fixes it first.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeeJay1997 View Post
it will eventually turn the CEL off. Not sure but I think it's 3 full warm-up / cool-down cycles.
That's exactly right, more specifically 3 open/close loop cycles.

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post #27 of 29 Old 10-19-2016, 09:27 AM Thread Starter
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In the past I've had the check engine light come on before when I got low on gas then turn off a couple days or even the next day. I'm guessing it turned on because of vapor pressure build up in the evap lines and tank and there was probably a small leak....

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post #28 of 29 Old 01-10-2017, 04:57 PM Thread Starter
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Well I had the light off for awhile until it got warm out, then it came back on. Where on the rubber lines should I specifically look for a cut in the hose? And I'm so sure that it's not the gas cap but is there anyway to make sure I have tight seal besides buying another new one? It seems fine until the warmth builds pressure in the system...

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post #29 of 29 Old 01-17-2017, 11:59 AM Thread Starter
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There has to be a problem in the gas tank or gas tank neck. I only have check engine problems in the summer when the gas vapors expand. There isn't enough room in the evap lines to have the vapors be a problem.

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