Char residue on intake manifold and loose evap hose - Page 2

**compcrasher86** · 02-26-2009, 06:29 PM

seeing as I'm on a tight budget, I think I'll give the duralasts a shot. And if after a short while it duradies, then I'll get myself a red-top.

Since the IAC is cheaper though, I think its going to come first. If its no longer "plunging", its not working properly so might as well fix the broken thing first. The battery is just a suspicion thing. Besides cant beat the price tag on the IAC.

malibubts · 02-26-2009, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by compcrasher86

oh my bad malibu, I totally skipped over your first post. Yeah I dont see the point in spending $200 on a new battery. Besides, the dgolds are $100, when it dies I can get a new one for $100. Two duralast golds will probably outlast one optima red top. Same cranking amps too.

also on an unrelated note. The IAC I'm looking at is Duralast brand, any problems with that? $35 isnt too bad a price considering the dealer would probably charge $200+ after parts and labor for an IAC

No big deal.

The optima will be a higher preformance battery, I don't doubt that. In fact that's why I have one. 1,500 watts of stereo equipment and the fact that you get tossed around so much on a boat. But really for his use it seems like overkill. For my stocker I've only had 2 batteries in a little over 7 years. Not too bad for batteries from the auto shop.

**compcrasher86** · 02-26-2009, 06:55 PM

yeah sadly mines a stocker with the exception of my lights so I think the dgolds are fine. I use seahorse marine batteries on my boat, never had a trouble before. And they're made in the town over from me so its local haha

dougy147 · 02-26-2009, 07:19 PM

I used to work at an Advance and we sold ALOT of batteries. The economy ones were ok. The silvers were pretty good, got some back here and there but not too bad. The gold generally have very good CCA and I have to say we hardly ever had them coming back. I know they were rated a consumer reports best buy a while back. I will be putting one of the "gold" in my WJ when the time comes.

NoreasterPlus2 · 02-27-2009, 08:04 PM

Ok..dumb question for the day...

what and where is the IAC?

I've got a 98zj 5.2, and it's prone to stalls and rough idling among other issues. My TB has the same carbon build-up and I'm going to clean that baby out. And maybe change the Fuel Filter, too.You've inspired me!

I may also change the TPS, delayed shifting into 1st (revving..then sometimes a jump into 1st, sluggish into 3rd then it can't make up it's mind if it wants to stay there) Occasionally I get the same problem in reverse.

But, back to the main issue: Where/what is the IAC

**compcrasher86** · 02-27-2009, 09:13 PM

its attached to your throttle body. Heres a picture of me unscrewing it. Unplug the wire going into it, then theres two torx screws attaching it, one on the bottom one on the top. The one on the bottom is very awkward to reach so be careful and strategic. If this is your fiirst time undoing it, it might be a little tough to unscrew.

and basically it regulates a small amount of air that is allowed into the Throttle body (bypasses the butterfly valve) to allow for a smooth idle

Sadly though, cleaning mine was SUPPOSED to help fix the low idle and vibrations and.. well.. it did nothing. Thats why this thread is still alive. I sugest cleaning the TB and the IAC though, its a good idea. Just a tip, I found that the Jeep started hard and stuttered on the initial startup after the clean. Totally normal, I had to pump the gas a bit and crank for 6-7 seconds. After letting it idle back properly, It starts now with less than 2 seconds of cranking at any temperature!

Ohh, dont forget to disconnect your neg terminal on battery after or during cleaning so your computer can re-learn the readings of the clean IAC

Bannonjr · 02-28-2009, 05:56 AM

If you've never taken it off before...I suggest to spray that thing down with PB Blaster or equiv. Soak them torx, over night...if those strip...you are screwed.

Really, I can't stress it enough...

Also, same with the thermostat screws....brutal...

**compcrasher86** · 03-01-2009, 12:45 PM

yeah I had to be really careful. Try and find a perfect match for the torx bit. I had one a little too small. It would fit and worked, but with enough torque it most likely would have destroyed the screws. I sprayed a bit of WD40 on mine and that did the job. Wipe it off after though, I wouldnt want it do be dripping everywhere