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Unread 02-09-2009, 03:34 PM   #1
compcrasher86
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Char residue on intake manifold and loose evap hose

Alrighty, I was messing around with the ZJ the other day, and I popped off the factory air intake hoses to get better access to the abs unit and I found this in the intake manifold. Heres pics:

closed:


and open:


does this look about normal, or are there signs here of inefficiency/problems/ premature failure/etc etc?

Also, this hose fitting (is it for evap purposes?) has a fairly loose connection to the engine, spings around and wobbles a bit by hand:


anything I should be aware of here? My engine idles kind of low, so it vibrates a fair amount, but nevertheless a fairly clean idle

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Unread 02-09-2009, 04:35 PM   #2
ZeeJay1997
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Mine looked about the same when I cleaned it. It's fairly simple to take the TB off and clean it, the MAP, TPS, and IAC. A can of carb cleaner, a nylon bore brush, and compressed air.

The loose PCV fitting is common. Mine is loose, but i checked it for leak and found none. It's almost impossible to get it out without breaking it.
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Unread 02-09-2009, 06:31 PM   #3
compcrasher86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeeJay1997 View Post
Mine looked about the same when I cleaned it. It's fairly simple to take the TB off and clean it, the MAP, TPS, and IAC. A can of carb cleaner, a nylon bore brush, and compressed air.

The loose PCV fitting is common. Mine is loose, but i checked it for leak and found none. It's almost impossible to get it out without breaking it.
a. Never done TB cleaning before, is it worth it. Like, is it going to help my i6 idle smoother?

b. thats what I figured, yes, I dare not touch it for fear of breaking something

edit:
did some reading up with the search feature, and it looks like cleaning out the throttle body and cleaning the IAC should help the idle out, and is usually very sucessfull! I am so excited, I am resisting the urge to sprint to autozone right now and do it, but I need to hold off until tomorrow. My ZJ is still fairly quiet when idleing, and I can feel a rough pulsing vibration from the rough idle. I am so pumped to do this, my ZJ oughta idle like new! I'll take before, during, and after pics because it seems like theres a lack of those. Thanks guys and thanks forum
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Last edited by compcrasher86; 02-09-2009 at 07:08 PM..
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Unread 02-25-2009, 06:42 PM   #4
compcrasher86
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Just for the record: I got the throttle body cleaned out totally and cleaned the IAC and its housing. There was SO much carbon buildup in there it was sad. Put it all back together and started the engine. It dieseled and choked for a sec but after I got 'er warmed up it was fine.

Except, well, no change in idle, maybe an extra 20-30rpms higher. Vibration is still there and just as strong . Engine runs very low idle, 300rpm'ish when its cold and I'm in gear with foot on brake.

Curious if the vibration/bad idle could be caused by a bad battery? its mopar-branded and probably about time to replace it considering: it was leaking acid a couple months ago with the old connectors, lights seem to dim up and down with engine on, starter is kind of slow but not really, and it looks VERY beat-up. Still reading good voltages though and it hasn't ever drained down on me even after listening to music with engine off for 30+ minutes. What do you guys think? please oh please dont say alternator, that would be a royal pita....

How does one clean off the MAP/TPS?
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Unread 02-25-2009, 07:17 PM   #5
malibubts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compcrasher86 View Post

Curious if the vibration/bad idle could be caused by a bad battery? its mopar-branded and probably about time to replace it considering: it was leaking acid a couple months ago with the old connectors, lights seem to dim up and down with engine on, starter is kind of slow but not really, and it looks VERY beat-up. Still reading good voltages though and it hasn't ever drained down on me even after listening to music with engine off for 30+ minutes. What do you guys think? please oh please dont say alternator, that would be a royal pita....

How does one clean off the MAP/TPS?
Yup and by the alternator too, maybe even the cables. I had some issues with my cables a while back and it caused the idle to be pretty low and rough. You could try taking your battery and alternator somewhere to get tested.
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Unread 02-25-2009, 07:59 PM   #6
compcrasher86
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gahh I hope it isnt the alternator. "please be battery please be battery".... I think my cables are still good, they look fine. Just replaced connectors two months ago. My current battery is mopar official, what do you guys suggest for the next one?
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Unread 02-26-2009, 06:01 AM   #7
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300rpm idle? That's way too low
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Unread 02-26-2009, 08:33 AM   #8
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I have an optima red in my Jeep...can't complain at all....I've drained so many times I can't count, quick charge...good to go

Also...some Amsoil carb/TB cleaner might do wonders in there...clean up that deposit...check it out!
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Unread 02-26-2009, 02:15 PM   #9
malibubts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bannonjr View Post
I have an optima red in my Jeep...can't complain at all....I've drained so many times I can't count, quick charge...good to go

Also...some Amsoil carb/TB cleaner might do wonders in there...clean up that deposit...check it out!
Only problem with optimas is that they are so expensive. Honestly unless you have a battery in the vehicle or in an awkward mounting position they aren't worth it. I have one in the boat and it's nice but the real reason I got it is I didn't want a typical fluid battery sitting in my compartment. Just pick up a battery from a local shop that has a good warranty. And if it turns out to be a bad battery you may still have some warranty left on it.
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Unread 02-26-2009, 02:51 PM   #10
compcrasher86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bannonjr View Post
I have an optima red in my Jeep...can't complain at all....I've drained so many times I can't count, quick charge...good to go

Also...some Amsoil carb/TB cleaner might do wonders in there...clean up that deposit...check it out!
yeah I was thinking a red-top because its not like I need a deep-cycle drainable battery, it will probably stay on top of its charge most of the time. I got some Valvoline TB cleaner and sprayed the whole thing out. The carbon literally melted in front of my eyes. VERY Cool. Also cleaned IAC and housing, but for an odd reason this did nothing to my idle.

A note about the IAC. From what I gather, its supposed to be like a plunger? mine isnt, its an IAC alright but it doesnt move in or out at all, and it twists a little bit. This isnt normal is it?

Oh and some pics to accompany:

IAC before cleaning. YUCK!


IAC after cleaning. Oooh shiny.. well sorta


And a nice clean TB/butterfly valve:


sorry bout the last pic. after fishing the tb cleaner red spraying thing out of the tb (yeah it flew off and into the tb... good times good times) it was dark and I had bad lighting = bad focus yadda yadda
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Unread 02-26-2009, 04:28 PM   #11
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Looks like it's time for a new IAC...that will help things alot...
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Unread 02-26-2009, 04:52 PM   #12
compcrasher86
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Originally Posted by Bannonjr View Post
Looks like it's time for a new IAC...that will help things alot...
hmm how much do these run price-wise?

Ya think autozone will have 'em for my specific ZJ or do I need to pay out of my mind at the stealership?


alright so maybe I'll do the cheaper one first and see what happens. I'll need a new battery eventually but I'd rather get a better idle first

edit:

I'm on a tight budget + bad economy so I need to save money:

just checked, $34 for a new IAC hmmm thats appealing

eek Optima Redtop = $200. Duralast golds on sale for $100, will that be fine? or do I NEED the optima? Winter temps rarely below 0, garaged Jeep, and no extra accessories other than a pair of bumper lamps in the front... I bet about now anything is better than that god knows how old Mopar battery

vs

and also

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Last edited by compcrasher86; 02-26-2009 at 05:22 PM..
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Unread 02-26-2009, 05:35 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by malibubts View Post
Only problem with optimas is that they are so expensive. Honestly unless you have a battery in the vehicle or in an awkward mounting position they aren't worth it. I have one in the boat and it's nice but the real reason I got it is I didn't want a typical fluid battery sitting in my compartment. Just pick up a battery from a local shop that has a good warranty. And if it turns out to be a bad battery you may still have some warranty left on it.
No I would go with the Duralast.
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Unread 02-26-2009, 06:04 PM   #14
compcrasher86
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No I would go with the Duralast.
oh my bad malibu, I totally skipped over your first post. Yeah I dont see the point in spending $200 on a new battery. Besides, the dgolds are $100, when it dies I can get a new one for $100. Two duralast golds will probably outlast one optima red top. Same cranking amps too.

also on an unrelated note. The IAC I'm looking at is Duralast brand, any problems with that? $35 isnt too bad a price considering the dealer would probably charge $200+ after parts and labor for an IAC
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Unread 02-26-2009, 06:04 PM   #15
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Well, my last duralast...didnt last...maybe thats why its only a hundred bucks.

I mean, don't get me wrong, the duralast will probably be fine...but from past exp. I will stay true to Optima...just my 2 cents...and I dont have any strange angled positioning for the battery...it just simply lasts longer.

I do have a stupid amount of draw on my jeep so a battery for me is a must...you, maybe not so much...
But I did change all my vehicles including my drag car to optima after using this red top in my jeep...

Anyway...my belief is you get what you pay for. In my opinion, I paid 119 bucks for a duralast and got a 119 dollars worth I guess...I paid 173 for my Optima...its been drained a thousand more times, been frozen pfff dont know how many times, kicked around, swapped vehicles, droppped, boosted off...etc and its still kickin...

I don't work for optima or anything...just extremely happy.
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