I am finally going to change my worn out pinion bearing, the slight humming noise has finally driven me to near madness, so since things are supposed to warm up around here, I figure I will take on the project, I am wondering what exactly I will need? I know I need the pinion bearing and I am assuming some kind of rebuild kit can anyone hook me up with a link to what it is exactly I will need? Thanks a bunch. BTW I do have the Dana 35 LSD.
randy's has kits for it. they're a little on the more expensive side if you order online, but they tend to discount a little if you call your order in.
the kit will have a new crush sleeve, bearings/races, and should come with some replacement shims. the depth shims and slingers can get damaged when removing races if you don't use the race driver tool that the fsm specifies(it's expensive so most just deal with the destroyed shims as they're cheaper to buy).
you'll need an inlb torque wrench, a ftlb wrench that can go to 350ftls. something to hold the pinion while tightening the nut you'll want to set the rotating torque to about 20inlbs. the spec is 20-40 for new, but many have had things wear out kinda fast at the high end of the spec.
while you're that deep i'd do the carrier bearings as well. be sure to verify gear backlash and the contact pattern when you're done.
'97 zj 5.2, some stuff, some other suff, and some things that even work sometimes.
Cool thanks for the info ratmonkey, I have a buddy who just recently rebuilt his rear diff on his ZJ about 6 months ago, he gonna give me a hand, getting in to this kind of stuff makes me a little too nervous to do it on my own. I will check out what Randy's has to offer, I have been looking on E-Bay but wasn't sure what I needed, and also Im also afraid to go on the cheap and have to do it all over again in a year. Always helps to have friends that will work for beer
You might consider upgrading to a solid crush sleeve. Crushing the sleeve correctly is the hardest part of the job IMO.
With a solid sleeve, you measure the old crush sleeve and set the solid so it's the same height. Now instead of crushing to achieve preload, you just torque the pinion nut. Bearings are pretty consistent so there's about a 90% chance your first attempt will achieve correct preload.