How do you change the Transmission fluid? And what type of fluid is best to use? Also how do you change the TC fluid and what to fill in to that? Are there any good right ups of how to do it?
Thanx
To change tranny fluid you must remove the cover and filter...big mess. Use ATF+3 or ATF+4 for tranny. As for the transfer case, I think there is a plug that you can take out to remove the fluid. I don't know what yours uses since it is Quadra-Trac, but mine is Selec-Trac and uses ATF.
To change tranny fluid you must remove the cover and filter...big mess. Use ATF+3 or ATF+4 for tranny. As for the transfer case, I think there is a plug that you can take out to remove the fluid. I don't know what yours uses since it is Quadra-Trac, but mine is Selec-Trac and uses ATF.
Yeah the trans isn't difficult. If the 5.2's transmission is anything like the WJ's V8 transmissions you'll need to do the following:
Get some RTV gasket sealer (is a caulking).
Lay down news paper and a large drip pan. Loosen all bolts slightly but only remove 3 of the sides allowing the pan to tilt slightly down to one side so the oil starts to drop down that side. Once it has slowed down emptying remove the remaining bolts while holding up the pan and then lower the pan keeping it as level as possible. Now drain the pan into the drain pan. My transmission takes a star T25 wrench to remove the transmission filter (two bolts). Remove and drain into the drain pan again. Let it drain (longer the better). Once sufficiently drained install a new transmission filter, torque to the proper amount (gonna have to look that up). Caulk out a new seal around the pan making circles around all bolt holes and then reinstall the pan. I believe the transmission pan bolts need to be torqued to 105 in/lbs (isn't very much). Let the caulking dry for ~30 minutes (some caulking dries faster) and then pump in some new transmission fluid. Remember to check your fluid in neutral after the engine has warmed up. Probably takes ~5 quarts of fluid.
Those aren't exact directions for your transmission but are an aproximation of what you'll need to do. Point being is that it isn't hard, takes about an hour, as opposed to a dealer charger $175 for it
Instead of the RTV sealear for the gasket, you can also get the Plastic covered Metal gasket for the transmission pan from the dealer for $12-$14. You can reuse them.
Changing the fluids is one of the single best things for the vehicle. It is many times overlooked. The Coolant, both diffs, transfer case, & tranny fluid changes so absolutely necessary every 30 k miles; if you not using synthetics. It does take longer than an electrically tune-up and it is messy. But you plan on keeping your machine for a long time then just do it. My family does so much laundry, that we only buy these large Tide 2 plus gallon sized containers of detergent. I never throw then out. They are great for used fluid storage. There are cork gaskets for the Dana diffs if you are having issues with sealing. I only RTV the pan side of the gaskets. The tranny filter needs a small torx wrench to remove the long bolts. If you have a torque-wrench or can borrow one then use it to ensure even sealing pressure around the pans, but it is not necessary if you take your time and tighten the bolts in a cross-like pattern.
hey. just changed the tranny fluid a few days back in a 96 5.2...chargold as well. few notes....
-id buy the rubber gasket from the dealer....$12.75 and reusable
-the filter is attached with a torx 20 bit
-think the torque specs for the tranny pan bolts is something like 144 in/lbs. i guess it depends on what maual you read. either way, its not that much. dont overtighten.
-get AT LEAST 6 quarts of fluid from the dealership. ATF-4 is what they suggested. i was shocked how much actually came out of the pan once i dropped the bolts. was expecting something like 4 quarts. so id get around 7 from the dealer (i think its like $3.80 a quart). start by adding back about 3 or so and then warm it up and slowly add more as needed...taking measurements when in neutral and the tranny has warmed up.
-make sure you recheck the fluid level and tranny pan (for leaks) after driving a few miles.
-whatever you dont, DONT get a cork gasket. the idiot that changed it before me had used a cork gasket and it has bonded itself to the lip of the tranny pan and to the tranny housing. needless to say, it was a serious PITA to get the old gasket material off of the tranny and pan.
-get a good degreaser (i use greased lighting....purple bottle) for the pan and magnet.
all in all, it was messy, but easy easy easy. all you need is a torx bit and a socket set. and some ramps/jack stands of course.
Yes IPA cleaner than gas but acetone is the best cleaner available on earth. You can get both at stores like HomeDepot & Lowes. The IPA is better for rubber and plastic. Acetone will swell rubber and dissolve plastics. I work in a chemical lab so I get to play with solvents everyday.
Greasefingers is right. I used to work for a major boat manufacturer in their cabinet shop. Have done a lot of overlay with Formica and the acetone is the trick. It cleans everything off of metal such as the oil pans you're talking about. I used acetone to get the old Permatex sealer off then reaply it. WARNING! Do not get it on any plastic that you don't want to damage. It will also clean glue, silicone, etc. off of glass very good. I highly recommend acetone for cleaning.
Okay will try the Tranny fluid next weekend or maybe thursday. Will let you know how it goes. Now how about the TC fluid thats what I really need to do.
TC is a whole lot easier. Not sure about the Quadra-Trac TC but Selec-Trac takes a 10mm allen wrench to remove both the drain and fill bolts. Once you put the drain plug back in fill through the fill hole until it starts to seep out and then screw the bolt back in. It takes a special Quadra-Trac (247/249) TC Fluid available at your friendly dealership. If it is anything like the Selec-Trac TC it takes ~2 quarts depending on how much you let it drain.
Spend $5 and get a fluid pump to pump into the TC; makes life more enjoyable:thumbsup: I just bought two, one for quarts and one for gallons.
The 249 does not take special fluid. The manual says Dex II or ATF. I personally use Mobil 1 synthetic ATF. It uses approximately 2.5 pts--in other words, one qt. bottle and about one fourth of another. 10mm allen wrench is correct.
Well if you go to your dealer their TC fluid that is special for the 247 says: 247/249 TC fluid...so it may not require it but it'll work also:thumbsup:
very importan but easy to forget thing with the TC fluid change: *always* pull the top (fill) plug first. Last thing you want to do is pull the bottom plug, watch everything drain, then find out your fill plug is impossible to remove.
Getting ready to change mine, too. The Owner's Manual says to put ATF+4 in the Transfer Case -- the dealer, using my VIN, says it's a 247 transfer case that uses the 247 fluid. Any problem using the 247 fluid if the Owner's Manual is right?
Getting ready to change mine, too. The Owner's Manual says to put ATF+4 in the Transfer Case -- the dealer, using my VIN, says it's a 247 transfer case that uses the 247 fluid. Any problem using the 247 fluid if the Owner's Manual is right?
I've always read that you need to you the special oem oil for the 247. I have a 247 and just picked up 3 quarts from the dealer. I was shocked that the dealer price per quart was only around $5.00. I was expecting them to rape me to the tune of $10.00 per quart or something similar. It's snowing and around 30 degrees outside today.... good time to change the t/c fluid.
Getting ready to change mine, too. The Owner's Manual says to put ATF+4 in the Transfer Case -- the dealer, using my VIN, says it's a 247 transfer case that uses the 247 fluid. Any problem using the 247 fluid if the Owner's Manual is right?
If you have the 247, you need the special 247 fluid. Selec-Trac takes ATF+4...
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