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Unread 02-06-2016, 10:50 PM   #1
silverstr8p
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can't get axle out

I got the rest of the assembly off, and then beat on this thing with a big hammer and chisel to try to pop it loose, but am afraid of overdoing it, am I missing something that still needs to get unbolted, or should I continue with increased wailing or is there a better way to get it off?



As you can see on the ground, I got the three bolts out that hold it to the rest of the hub.

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Unread 02-06-2016, 10:58 PM   #2
wingless
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When I did mine it also did not want to come apart.

The method I used was to put a cold chisel between the splash shield and the steering knuckle, assisted by a BFH on the chisel.

The splash shield was slightly degraded, so I pressed it flat w/ my shop press.
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Unread 02-06-2016, 11:10 PM   #3
wingless
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This shows the steering knuckle w/ the wheel bearing, splash shield and axle half shaft removed, w/ the axle sanded and painted.


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Unread 02-06-2016, 11:27 PM   #4
CJ7-Tim
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See pic below. Put a bolt, or deep well socket there on the stub axle u-joint ear, and turn the steering wheel. Done.


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Unread 02-06-2016, 11:40 PM   #5
tjcustomranger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ7-Tim View Post
See pic below. Put a bolt, or deep well socket there on the stub axle u-joint ear, and turn the steering wheel. Done.

.
Yup, thats the way to do it.
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Unread 02-07-2016, 04:21 AM   #6
Timo_90xj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ7-Tim View Post
See pic below. Put a bolt, or deep well socket there on the stub axle u-joint ear, and turn the steering wheel. Done.
^- yeap, that's the right way to do it - and by far the easiest.


Trying to chisel out a stuck unit bearing will only ruin the knuckle. When installing a new unit bearing, use fine-grit sandpaper to clean off all the rust from inside the knuckle bore, then lube unit bearing outer surface and knuckle bore mating surfaces with anti-seize or copper paste; also use a light amount of anti-seize on the unit bearing mounting bolts and torque to specification
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Unread 02-07-2016, 05:32 PM   #7
riot1987
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I always use a slide hammer. Thats a way better idea. Awesome!
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Unread 02-07-2016, 06:05 PM   #8
CJ7-Tim
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I always use a slide hammer. Thats a way better idea. Awesome!
A slide hammer is not a good idea if you want to re-use the unit hub. They have a tendency to wreck the bearings.
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Unread 02-08-2016, 12:04 AM   #9
Candymancan
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Turning the wheel sometimes doesnt work.. didnt work for me.. But i came up with that idea also. Buy a bolt from the hardware store that threads into the bearing.. Then thread it up like 4-5 turns and get a small sledge hammer and pound the bolt.. Itll pop the wheel bearing off eventually. Reason why i say new bolt is because if you re-use the old ones and smash with a hammer.. it will flatten the ends and you cant get a wrench on them anymore.. But the new bolt you can just use vicegrips to get off since its sticking out.

And you want to keep the old bolts.. i couldnt find new grade 8 bolts that size.. in ANY hardware store.. only grade 5 so thats hwy i say get a new cheap bolt for the pounding.

When you put everything back together.. Get some wheel bearing grease.. Put some on the new axle splines, and lather up the wheel bearing and the Hub this way it wont rust itself together again
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Unread 02-08-2016, 12:45 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Candymancan View Post
And you want to keep the old bolts.. i couldnt find new grade 8 bolts that size.. in ANY hardware store.. only grade 5 so thats hwy i say get a new cheap bolt for the pounding.
OEM bolts have a thicker shank right before the flange. You can use grade 8 or ISO class 10.9 (or 12.9) metric bolts for mounting the hub, but OEM bolts are better.

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When you put everything back together.. Get some wheel bearing grease.. Put some on the new axle splines, and lather up the wheel bearing and the Hub this way it wont rust itself together again
Like I mentioned above, use anti-seize or copper paste. Both stay on the mating surfaces better, and anti-seize is a much better option on the mounting bolt threads compared to bearing grease
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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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Unread 02-08-2016, 01:01 AM   #11
Candymancan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timo_90xj View Post
OEM bolts have a thicker shank right before the flange. You can use grade 8 or ISO class 10.9 (or 12.9) metric bolts for mounting the hub, but OEM bolts are better.



Like I mentioned above, use anti-seize or copper paste. Both stay on the mating surfaces better, and anti-seize is a much better option on the mounting bolt threads compared to bearing grease


well all i had was grease.. better then nothing right ?
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Unread 02-08-2016, 01:21 AM   #12
Timo_90xj
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Originally Posted by Candymancan View Post
well all i had was grease.. better then nothing right ?
Certainly
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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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Unread 02-08-2016, 01:28 AM   #13
Candymancan
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I hate the 4.0 i have though.. Its hard to work on, lived here in VA all its life for 17 years weve had it.. The 5.9 was built in canada and mostly on the west coat..

Certainly a huge diff in how easy these two or hard they are to work on.. the 5.9's hubs.. poped right off, the 4.0 took me hours.. Same goes with everything else.. If the engine and trans werenly so damn reliable on the 4.0 id personally melt the vehicle down.

All thanks to rust and the climate
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Unread 02-08-2016, 07:36 AM   #14
riot1987
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Originally Posted by CJ7-Tim View Post
A slide hammer is not a good idea if you want to re-use the unit hub. They have a tendency to wreck the bearings.
Didnt know that. Ive beat the **** outta those things... Ill think of that next time.
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