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Unread 01-26-2013, 10:05 PM   #1
Solaris17
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 31
Can you help me get her ship shape?

Lets start this off right. Names David Moved to FL a few months ago and iv owned my jeep for several years. I'm a software engineer and I do hardware reviews for a few diffirent tech sites. I'm new to these forums mostly lurked alot and I know what its like to be a heavy hitter and helping the new guy. I've put in a few hundred thousand posts on the various tech networks.

That said im going to try and make this read interesting and logical. I will try not to burden the vets with another idiot but I want to show you im not just some guy with a few certs and a soldering iron. But like anyone else starting out just show me I can keep up I promise.

Little about me iv helped friends rebuild a few engines from supras to 4runners I can gap a valve and weld a floor board. Pcs are just my thing. I dont have many tools anymore since I moved but im more then willing to work with what I have. I put $$ into everything to do it right. I love my jeep, last year my brake pads needed to be changed I got 4 new rotors ceramic pads all the way around. ceramic brake shoes e-brake full rebuild kit rebuilt the calipers and added a copious amount of never seize. That said if I absolutely must I will use a shortcut im in the middle of buying a house so I might need to mickey mouse something here or their. Go easy on me. I know new guys should help more then they ask questions but unfortunately I cant do that. I want to know alot more about my jeep and I am in love with it I will do anything that is needed give it to me straight. I will work with you and answer questions coherently need a pic show me and I will get it. I will multi quote and do w/e I will make sure I help you help me. Go easy I want to play with the big boys but im afraid to get my tires dirty.

OK lets do this.

Alyx is the reason my fiance hates me most of the time. Other then the PCs everyware my car is my #2 passion.

It is a 4spd 1998 GC limited 5.2 all time 4wd (quadra trac t-case) 199k miles no smoke compression tests out.

What I have done
  • new brake system
  • new radiator
  • new tires
  • tune up (full synth, cap, rotor, bosch plat fuzion 4 plugs, bosch distance plus oil filter, tcase drain and relube, tranny flush, front/rear diff flush)
  • Spectre C.A.I
  • IAC
  • PCM
  • track bar solid adjustible
  • new shocks all around
  • 2 new steering stabalizers
  • 2 new front hubs

My problems

First When I idle in park sometimes I hear a rattle like an exhaust rattle this sounds like it comes from the tail pipe. outside the car it sounds like its comming from the muffler (I have replaced this before) banging on it yeilds no results. I have looked and cannot see rub points. If I am in drive and stopped the sound is VERY loud.

My sources for a fix came from here

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/o...-96-zj-993326/

http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f5/ratt...996-zj-155516/

and a few places that suggested cat. What are your thoughts? The car doesnt rattle when I am not sitting in the drivers seat. It also does not happen sitting anywhere else in the car. A few have suggested tc (tcase or torque converter?) bolts. Is that realistic? to be able to control the sound like that by getting in and out?

My next issue is a doozy. I will try to be brief.

A few weeks ago My jeep gave my fiance a scare. It lost power and stalled and made a loud pop. She was alone. A few days go by and I try to recreate this problem. and cant. However one day it happens to me bringing her to work.

driving fine doing about 40.

Engine loses power while braking to stop.

Battery level drops to around 9.5v

put car in N and feathered gas no response.

MASH gas engine backfires and rpm skyrockets

let off gas and she feels like she is going to die (I have replaces IAC motor 4 times)

light turns green rev and hold at 2k rpm and drop into drive. make it to parking lot and drop her off.

Car doesnt feel right. like a misfire. accel and throttle response feel wrong. tranny feels like its having a hard time (filled with cement)

shut off car

start it up

runs fine.

This problem can be replicated 70% of the time since this happened by bringing the engine past 3k RPM on a hard accel. symptoms return almost the same way. Close to full stop or seconds after a stopped take off.

suggestions here range from CKS (crank position sensor) TPS/MAP, rotor plugs (new) and ignition switch. I have ordered a TPS and CKS. they are on the way.

My next problem is dash related. First this VIC coolent sensor stuff. I replaced it the first time it happened. It seems to be a bad solder joint in the vic from what iv read online. can anyone show me where or a howto? Ill fix it no problem.

Next is dimmer switch/light control. On 4 out of 7 days of the week my lights act up (I work nights) they will flash on and off both interior and exterior. My light control is set to auto. If I switch it to off and back to auto this usually fixes it. Lately though it is more frequent. On top of the increased frequency, my dash itself starts to dim and almost go out (this does not effect exterior lights) playing with the dimmer or pushing on the dash near the dimmer fixes the problem. Any idea what needs to be replaced here?

My brake system is next on the chopping block. For the past few months I have had this strange problem with my brakes during stopping. this happens 100% of the time. regardless of comming from high way speeds or 25 to stop. at the end of my stop ~5mph my abs system seems to engage. my brake peddle will pulse and kick back. at the end it will make a long groan sound and the jeep will pull to the left. (the wheel also turns) I can stop the pull by firmly holding the steering wheel however I can feel the resistence.

I have read this can be a problem with a caliper locking up. I sprayed brake clean on both the left front and right calipers. and nothing has changed. some also suggested it is a problem with the ebrake causing drag and I was told a quick test is to ebake and pull the ebrake to see if it happens. It still happens.

visual inspection of the rotors indicate everything is normal. they both look worn and neither look scorched. my ABS light does not come on during any of this and my fluid does not leak and is full.

my last issue seems to be suspension. when going over a bump my left front tire almost seems to bottom out witha resounding "bang" like axle hitting stuff. I have replaced all my shocks and the front right does not do this. I weigh a massive 160lbs but somehow i doubt im doing it. also if I am accelerating quickly and let off the gast i hear a pop and feel a slight jerk. almost like a "catch up" affect.

thats about it for that. next question. my fan clutch is frozen would this be a direct replacement? I get most of my parts from rock auto.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...262&cc=1315973

ok doctors tell me what iv got.

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Unread 01-26-2013, 10:27 PM   #2
14dude
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read your PM
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Unread 01-27-2013, 12:08 AM   #3
Myusername1674
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Well welcome man, I can tell you have a lot more knowledge then me for sure! But my input may help some from what I've read. The popping I've somewhat heard about may be track bar related? Or just an old CA bushing, so try inspecting those if you haven't.

I've heard of the dimmer switch problem before this and/or this may help
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Unread 01-27-2013, 12:43 AM   #4
Solaris17
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Tampa, Florida
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thanks for the welcome!!

Can you elaborate on CA bushing? I can look in the morning.

Tonight on the way to go grab a breather filter It did the stalling thing again. As before it was a comming to a stop I was in the parking lot alone so I felt safe testing a few things.

I park the car rev it and let it get close to death. It refused to stall. really rough maybe 100rpm my batt level dropped everything started to flicker. I pop the hood telling her sorry over and over gain.

I tap the throttle a few times. and I get this loud hiss from my intake im talking louder then the engine itself running.

I also get a terrible smell. not quite gas. not fuely enough but more like raw exhaust like straight piped rich mix muscle no cat straight piped ya know?

anyway i limp it home and its resting atm wasnt running right when i pulled in not sure if the GF will make it to work. I'll probably drive her since id rather I drive the car if it starts acting up.
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Unread 01-27-2013, 04:04 AM   #5
coralman
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On the rattle, if it only does when you are seated in the cab, sit in it and have a bud try to find it. You may be loading the suspension just enough for something to be making contact. Dimmer switch is right up your alley as it involves resoldering. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/r...-heavy-702703/ Coolant sensor http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/c...-fixed-175207/

Pulsing is usually caused by a warped rotor or pads hanging up. All it takes is a hot rotor and a mud puddle. Excessive runout will also cause this and does not have to be a warped rotor but cheap hubs or dirty or poorly machined hub to rotor surfaces. Also over the years divots can be worn into the caliper brackett causing the pads to bind. Solution is to replace or have a welding shop fill in the divots and grind to match the contour. Its interesting to note that Chrysler recommends turning rotors on the vehicle. Minute runout can be hidden supposedly by the use of rotor shims but it you gotta have a dial micrometer and patience. The tire to rotor surfaces have to be clean and in good shape. It involves placing a shim {which are wedge shaped circles}, behind the rotor install the rotor with lug nuts and washers, measure the runout and if not minimized shift the shim around until it is. They come in .003,.006,.009 thicknesses. Raybestos makes them. You may have a shot or intermittent abs sensor on that wheel or the air gap is out of whack. The tone rings are known to crack also. I'm not a 4W dude but I believe some of that stuff could give you pulsing probs too if its out whack. Almost forgot on the shim thing, you have to go backand check them after some wear in, its too much of a pain to me.

Main advice is get a factory service manual as it will help you more than you know. Before spending the bucks on sensors clean all grounds that you can get your hands on. Battery, pdc, body,ect. Inspect main cables very closely especially at the insulation to terminal abutments. Jeeps are crazy finicky about good grounds.
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Links to axle rebuilds, mount replace,a/c box rebuild,ect in history section of my profile page
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Unread 01-27-2013, 04:16 AM   #6
coralman
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P.S. Don't call the jeep a car,eyes are watching.
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Links to axle rebuilds, mount replace,a/c box rebuild,ect in history section of my profile page
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Unread 01-27-2013, 05:09 AM   #7
PolkaPower
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Possible o2 sensor or clogged cat maybe.
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Unread 01-27-2013, 08:28 AM   #8
Solaris17
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thanks for the replies!! I know it was alot to read and I appreciate it. shes almost at 200,000 but I just REFUSE to let her break down. I will keep her running.

Worst case scenerio I'll drill a hole in the block myself.

im awake and stuff now and pouring some coffee I made the better half give me her card and she made me PROMISE not to spend alot of $$ (i gave her 800 and she gave me $16 and said that I could keep it ) we share a bank account.

So I will be off to the parts store today grab a haynes manual and get to getting in the dash and under the hood ill start crawling around the suspension and see what i can dig up. wish me luck!

What do you guys need from me? want me to log it? want pics of anything?
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Unread 01-27-2013, 09:33 AM   #9
PolkaPower
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solaris17 View Post
thanks for the replies!! I know it was alot to read and I appreciate it. shes almost at 200,000 but I just REFUSE to let her break down. I will keep her running.

Worst case scenerio I'll drill a hole in the block myself.

im awake and stuff now and pouring some coffee I made the better half give me her card and she made me PROMISE not to spend alot of $$ (i gave her 800 and she gave me $16 and said that I could keep it ) we share a bank account.

So I will be off to the parts store today grab a haynes manual and get to getting in the dash and under the hood ill start crawling around the suspension and see what i can dig up. wish me luck!

What do you guys need from me? want me to log it? want pics of anything?
You are probably better off downloading a PDF manual for your year ZJ. It will be much more comprehensive.

Here is a list of parts http://thespeedfreaks.net/showthread...rt-and-diagram...


Here is one. Not sure how good it is. I got mine from another site but I can't find it. Just search around. Cheap too. http://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.p...-repair-manual
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Unread 01-27-2013, 10:07 AM   #10
kachink
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First of all, welcome the forum. You're going to get a lot of suggestions, just remember it's tough to diagnose something from a brief description, so be ready to possibly follow up some blind alleys. It helps that you're being very descriptive of the symptoms.

On your power loss problem, I'm going to suggest a clogged cat, like polka. It occurred to me on reading your first post, but I discarded the idea after hearing that it presented only on deceleration. Your next post about repeating on 3000 RPM, the smell, and recalling the exhaust rattle, all could be symptoms of a clogged cat.

BTW, you say you have replaced the IAC multiple times. I suggest that you remove the entire throttle body and clean it. If you haven't done this you will find a heavy layer of carbon on the underside and in the pocket under the IAC. I also suggest taking the time to clean the battery terminals at all terminations and all your grounds.

On the braking problem, I think coralman called it with the divots in the bracket. If your ABS light isn't going on (assuming it is working), then it's not your ABS. On the front corner, on the side it's pulling toward, check the area of the bracket that the ears of the pad rest on. There is likely a divot worn there that the pad is dropping into and being held there.

Interior lights sound like a bad ground or a loose connection, possibly a cracked solder joint in the switch. I would focus on the switch since playing with that gets you a result.

The fan you linked to is a complete fan, and it's electric. You can get just the clutch for your mechanical fan. There are threads about converting to an electric fan if you want to do that.

The Haynes manual is helpful, but as coralman says, the FSM is a lot better. There are PDF copies floating around.
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Unread 01-27-2013, 12:41 PM   #11
JS97ZJ
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Welcome,
First thing is to get those spark plugs out of there!!!!
The Bosch plugs might be good for high end engines but not your 5.2. Use only the copper Champions in your engine. I use platinum in my 4.0 but many say the V8 don't run well on them. The cat can't take many back fires, so get this problem done quickly.
When you've replace the TPS and CPS also go through ZeeJay1997's "12 things" approach to cleaning up all of the electrical gremlins that might be lucking in there. These vehicles need all the power and clean signals from the sensors in order to operate correctly.
Keep in mind that a "new" PCM is never new, their just repainted JY replacements. They don't make new PCMs. The V8's don't have a big history of faulty PCM's if you look at the poll that Zee took in relation to the PCM causing this "dying while driving problem". But there are a few.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/1...talls-1407423/
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/i...lling-1332131/

Keep the injectors clean with some injector cleaner once every 6 months or so, I've been doing that since I got mine, and have never had an issue with lose of power due to injector problems. Although I've had a PCM problem due to bad solder connections.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/9...tures-1303589/

ALWAYS tighten your lugs with a torque wrench especially with the cheaper rotors. I'll always re torque the lugs after getting the tires replaced or getting the Jeep inspected. Don't trust these garages to do the right thing. They need to torqued to 100 ft/lbs., or else they'll warp when they get hot.
The inside pads will start to wear out faster than the outer, if the right or left inner pad starts to wear out faster than the opposite side the chances are that that caliper is starting to stick. You might even notice that one rim will feel hotter than the other.
Are you getting a CEL for emissions? Or does the CEL work at all? Get the PCM scanned for codes.

You might want to check into a possible bad ball joint for that bang your hearing in the front end too.
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Unread 01-27-2013, 05:37 PM   #12
Solaris17
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Hi all just got done my day of fixing. well day 1 anyway.

Seafoamed it.

replaced cap and roter

cleaned TB

replaced both neg and posative terminals.

tommarrow I will work on my brakes and start the dash stuff.

As for CEL thanks for reminding me I do have a code its intermittent and comes and goes 9weeks at a time)

its for the downstream 02. the sensor itself is fine but the drive shaft caught my harness and tore the connector off the harness (from engine)

so i spliced the wires together. and insulated them individually it throws a CEL once in awhile for the downstream o2 every few weeks it will come on for a day or 2 and go away. but the problems listed above happen regardless of the o2 CEL activity.
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Unread 01-28-2013, 05:09 AM   #13
coralman
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Rut Ro, mine shorted out on the drive shaft and it toasted the PCM. Hope that isn't your stalling problem but i don;t have a good feeling about it.
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Links to axle rebuilds, mount replace,a/c box rebuild,ect in history section of my profile page
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Unread 01-28-2013, 10:04 AM   #14
Solaris17
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That's exactly why I did it! The PCM was replaced after the o2 harness was destroyed and it fixes a lot of problems.

The seafoam went through like a tornado I don't know if its something that can be handled visually but I don't see how their can be anything wrong with flow looking at my tailpipe after that. Fast and thick
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Unread 01-29-2013, 11:37 AM   #15
Solaris17
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You guys did not warn me about the cks what is this I don't even..

I'm almost entirely certain I need another elbow (gauging length of arm this will drastically reduce the amount or torque I can apply) or I need a rubber forarm.
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