[tylem28]

ok i purchased a recharge kit put the whole can in and still isnt blowing as cold as it should be. Now i do notice that at higher speeds 40 and above the air does get cooler. The pressure is right on both the high and low sides of the compressor. Would flushing and filling the raditior help at all. I know the raditior cools the engine but does it have any affect on the a/c?

thanks

[micifus]

Rad has no effect on the AC. Make sure the clutch for the AC compressor is engaging you should be able to hear it when you turn the AC on. You may also have an issue with your door blender. Do a serach on "Bled Doors"

[SJZ]

Originally Posted by tylem28

ok i purchased a recharge kit put the whole can in and still isnt blowing as cold as it should be. Now i do notice that at higher speeds 40 and above the air does get cooler. The pressure is right on both the high and low sides of the compressor. Would flushing and filling the raditior help at all. I know the raditior cools the engine but does it have any affect on the a/c?

thanks

2004 has the electric cooling fan for the radiator. no?
Make sure it's coming on when you put the A/C on, as this fan also draws cool air thru the A/C condensor. At highway speed, the air flows naturally thru the condensor, so maybe this is why it works at 40 MPH.

[tylem28]

no blend doors here as i dont have the dual climate control

[tylem28]

you can hear something click when you turn the a/c on im assuming that it is the a/c condensor. As far as the cooling fan for the radiator im pretty sure its on. My engine temp guage never gets above half actaully it stays right under the highway point. Now would replacing the thermastat do anything? Im lost and just want the air working normal. Also the air seems to not blow as hard as it should like on the setting right before high its not blowing that hard it will reach about 2-3 inches out and thats it maybe more IDK anymore its just frustrating

[SJZ]

Originally Posted by tylem28

you can hear something click when you turn the a/c on im assuming that it is the a/c condensor. As far as the cooling fan for the radiator im pretty sure its on. My engine temp guage never gets above half actaully it stays right under the highway point. Now would replacing the thermastat do anything? Im lost and just want the air working normal. Also the air seems to not blow as hard as it should like on the setting right before high its not blowing that hard it will reach about 2-3 inches out and thats it maybe more IDK anymore its just frustrating

Come on... you gotta make an effort here!
Put the A/C on, pop open the hood, and LOOK to see if the compressor is spinning (look at the clutch pulley, which is always spinning when the engine is running, then look at the center "hub" of the pulley, that is attached to the actual compressor shaft, and should be spinning, too).
Now look at your radiator fan, is it spinning? It should always be running when your A/C is on, regardless of the coolant temperature.
If your temperature gauge is not showing that the engine coolant is running too hot, your thermostat is OK. The thermostat has nothing to do with the A/C (for the sake of this post).
I don't have a WJ, but I assume you have a recirc position on the A/C control. Does it blow harder when engaged? Do you feel air blow forcefully from the floor vents when in that position?
Altho' you may not have the blend door issues associated with dual climate control, there are still blend doors which channel the air according to how you have the controls set, and they could be malfunctioning.
Do what I say above, and take it from there.

[indept]

Originally Posted by SJZ

Come on... you gotta make an effort here!
Put the A/C on, pop open the hood, and LOOK to see if the compressor is spinning (look at the clutch pulley, which is always spinning when the engine is running, then look at the center "hub" of the pulley, that is attached to the actual compressor shaft, and should be spinning, too).
Now look at your radiator fan, is it spinning? It should always be running when your A/C is on, regardless of the coolant temperature.
If your temperature gauge is not showing that the engine coolant is running too hot, your thermostat is OK. The thermostat has nothing to do with the A/C (for the sake of this post).
I don't have a WJ, but I assume you have a recirc position on the A/C control. Does it blow harder when engaged? Do you feel air blow forcefully from the floor vents when in that position?
Altho' you may not have the blend door issues associated with dual climate control, there are still blend doors which channel the air according to how you have the controls set, and they could be malfunctioning.
Do what I say above, and take it from there.

Yeah Like SJZ said X2

[tylem28]

thanks ill go check sorry when it comes the cooling system normally i leave it to the pros but for the time being cashflow isnt that great and id rather try to tackle this myself vs spend a couple hundred bucks for someone to look at it and say that will be 300-400

[jeffsjk]

Originally Posted by tylem28

ok i purchased a recharge kit put the whole can in and still isnt blowing as cold as it should be. Now i do notice that at higher speeds 40 and above the air does get cooler.

thanks

I am thinking it is low.
Did you put a set of manifold gauges on it?
Make sure you have your setting at full cold and the recurculating option
selected and the fan on high.
With the a/c in this mode and the windows down the a/c
clutch should stay engaged. If it releases then you have a prob.

[SJZ]

Originally Posted by jeffsjk

...With the a/c in this mode and the windows down the a/c
clutch should stay engaged. If it releases then you have a prob. [/b]

The fact that the clutch may release, is not necessarily indicative of a problem.
Whether or not the clutch stays engaged depends on the ambient temperature, which effects the low side pressure (high side , too). The clutch cycling switch measure low side pressure & controls the clutch's cycling.
Higher ambient = higher low side pressure = clutch stays engaged longer.
EDIT:The WJ does not use a clutch cycling switch. It has an expansion valve, and a temperature probe at the evaporator, which (along with dash controls & pressure transducer) sends info to the PCM to control the clutch.

[tylem28]

ill check it again and make sure it is charged fully. It is 99 degrees out with a heat index of 110+. The only reason im mentioning this is because im not sure if this would affect the pressure ratings to detirmine if the correct amount of free-on is in there

[jeffsjk]

Originally Posted by SJZ

The fact that the clutch may release, is not necessarily indicative of a problem.
Whether or not the clutch stays engaged depends on the ambient temperature, which effects the low side pressure (high side , too). The clutch cycling switch measure low side pressure & controls the clutch's cycling.
Higher ambient = higher low side pressure = clutch stays engaged longer.

WTF? why is it that everbody thinks they are a rocket scientist?
It's hot out right?
the interior temp of the jeep is hot, right?
Leave the windows down, crank it up and the clutch will stay engaged!
I'm not talking about doing this when it's 20 deg outside and letting it run for an hour.

[SJZ]

Originally Posted by jeffsjk

WTF? why is it that everbody thinks they are a rocket scientist?
It's hot out right?
the interior temp of the jeep is hot, right?
Leave the windows down, crank it up and the clutch will stay engaged!
I'm not talking about doing this when it's 20 deg outside and letting it run for an hour.

It may seem like rocket science to you, but it's only basic A/C theory, so don't get overwhelmed!
I'm just trying to post the correct info and help the OP get his A/C to work.
There are tables which should be used that tell you how much pressure is correct at the high and low sides, dependent on ambient temperature.
Unless it's a new fill on an evacuated system, where you know how many ozs of R134a to add, this table is the only right way to do it.
Before the OP posted that it was 99* where he lives, I had no idea what the temperature was at his house, did you?
To make the blanket statement that "With the a/c in this mode (recirc)and the windows down the a/c clutch should stay engaged. If it releases then you have a prob." without knowing what the outside temperature is, is not only misleading, it is wrong.

[jeffsjk]

Originally Posted by SJZ

Before the OP posted that it was 99* where he lives, I had no idea what the temperature was at his house, did you?
To make the blanket statement that "With the a/c in this mode (recirc)and the windows down the a/c clutch should stay engaged. If it releases then you have a prob." without knowing what the outside temperature is, is not only misleading, it is wrong.

I understand what your trying to say but I think all that rocket science ate up your common sense. Let's see. I'll try to make this easy for you.
It's summer, August to be excact and he lives in Kansas. Are you tracking or do you need me to slow down?

[SJZ]

Originally Posted by jeffsjk

I understand what your trying to say but I think all that rocket science ate up your common sense. Let's see. I'll try to make this easy for you.
It's summer, August to be excact and he lives in Kansas. Are you tracking or do you need me to slow down?

I'm not trying to say anything, I said it.
There are others who will be looking at this thread in the future, who may have the same problem. They may not notice that the OP lives in Kansas, or be familiar with the weather patterns in that state (or even know where Kansas is... WORLD Wide Web, remember?). They may not realize it was posted in the summer.
I agree that his compressor should be running pretty constantly in that weather, but you should have prefaced you statement with "considering that it's 100* outside now, I would expect...".
Somehow, you magically know that the OP is low on R134a, despite the fact that he specifically states "pressure is right on both the high and low sides of the compressor". You then ask if he put a set of manifold gauges on it! Did you not read his post? How do you read high & low side pressure without a set of gauges?
I stated the facts, which I stand by, regardless of your insults.
Apologies to the OP for wasting space in your thread for purposes of explaining my post, where no explanation should have been needed.