A/C Clutch - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 13 Old 09-22-2017, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
igorhandsome
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A/C Clutch

So my A/C pulley/clutch has started making an embarrassing noise and I'd like to fix it. My local wrecker has the whole compressor for the other engines with the 7 groove pulley instead of the 6 groove I need. Anyone know if I can take the guts from the 7 and put it in my 6? Looks the same in a photo but I don't know how similar they actually are

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post #2 of 13 Old 09-22-2017, 05:21 PM
kg6mov
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Should be the same clutch mechanism for both engines. Worst case you can just run your belt on the 7 groove pulley.

I wouldn't mess with a clutch out of a JY though, new ones aren't that expensive for their life expectancy.


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post #3 of 13 Old 09-22-2017, 07:28 PM
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The reman compressor I put into my 4.0L had a 7-groove pulley, where the original had a 6-groove. As kg6mov says, you can just put the 6-groove belt on the 7-groove pulley, and that's what I did. No issues at all.
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post #4 of 13 Old 09-23-2017, 12:52 PM
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Is your AC still working good besides the clutch squealing badly? Keep in mind installing a jy compressor is a crap shoot. Plus you'll need to have the 134a recovered by a shop from your AC system if it hasn't leaked out. And any time you open the system up you should replace the drier/accumulator. They aren't very expensive and the below one w/hoses is $32 plus shipping.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....sn=387&jsn=387

A couple ounces of PAG oil will probably need to be added to the new accumulator, then vacuum will need pulled down on the system, and a recharge. This can add up and it's a rip-off price of $175 around here for recovery, evac, and recharge. If you have your own tools and diy you can save money but will still need recovery.

You can replace the clutch w/o opening up the system. But didn't realize the price was so high and Rockauto wants $94 plus shipping for a new Fourseasons 47564 clutch for your 98 4.0 compressor. Heck, a new 4seasons 58381 compressor w/clutch (10PA17C) is only $70 more at $164 plus shipping.

There again you aren't opening up the system when replacing the clutch and avoid the costs of a shop doing some of the work. Good luck.

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post #5 of 13 Old 09-24-2017, 12:27 AM
Timo_90xj
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First of all, the 4.0 and 5.2/5.9 compressor are the same. The differences are the pulley (6 groove vs. 7-groove, and you can a 6-groove belt on the 7-groove), and the orientation of the compressor service valve/ safety-blow out assembly orientation. IIRC you can simply turn the assembly around if/ when needed - or swap it over from your current compressor.


Second thing: if your compressor is working as should, no need to replace the whole compressor. Just pull the magnetic clutch and replace that, but before doing so check the roller bearing on the pulley. Pull the serp. belt, and try rotating the A/C pulley. If it rolls freely and/or makes any noise, it needs to be replaced. If it feels tight and it rotates kind of snuggly, it's good.


My bets are that it's a worn pulley bearing causing the noise, it is a fairly common thing. I was once quoted 800€ (at that time ~900$) for an A/C system service due to the compressor making noise; it included evacuating the r134a, replacing the "broken" A/C compressor and refilling the system.
I checked the compressor, pulled the pulley/ clutch assembly, bought a new high-quality bearing (~10$), replaced the bearing and re-installed clutch assembly.
Took about half an hour and cost me 15$ including the bearing shipping costs. That was about 6 years ago, and my compressor is still functioning perfectly - as is the pulley bearing.


Clutch assembly comes out when you first remove the small bolt on the center of the pulley, then use a long enough IIRC 8mm bolt the pull out the assembly from the compressor shaft.
Make sure to NOT loose the clutch spacer, it is essential to have the clutch air gap correct!
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post #6 of 13 Old 09-25-2017, 10:09 AM Thread Starter
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Do you have any idea what the bearing is? I'm sure that's my issue as well. I picked up a compressor from my local wrecker and the fog lamp I needed to replace my broken one.
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post #7 of 13 Old 09-25-2017, 09:34 PM
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It's a Nachi bearing, just can't remember the part #. It's easy to pull the clutch assembly to check it. Once the clutch assembly is off, you can read the bearing number from the bearing back face.

I6 serp. belt removal is a bit crappier job compared to a 5.2/5.9 with the automatic tensioner, but it's not too bad on the I6 either.

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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #8 of 13 Old 09-26-2017, 09:18 AM Thread Starter
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OK thanks...hopefully this is getting fixed tonight.
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post #9 of 13 Old 09-27-2017, 01:31 PM Thread Starter
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My wrecker compressor is just as bad as the one I had so I ended up ordering a replacement bearing 25211 or Santech MT2027 if anyone wants to know
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post #10 of 13 Old 10-03-2017, 11:46 AM Thread Starter
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Awesome bearing has been replaced and all was fine for 36 hours. Now this morning the noise has returned...any ideas?
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post #11 of 13 Old 10-04-2017, 01:20 PM Thread Starter
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Tracked it down to the idler pulley to the right and below the a/c compressor. Hopefully get it changed tonight and enjoy not hearing the embarrassing noise anymore.
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post #12 of 13 Old 10-05-2017, 11:19 AM
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That idler pulley next to the compressor is a pretty common one to fail with the AC clutch kicking on/off right next to it.

If going with aftermarket at a parts store try to match up the one you have on there. I remember NAPA selling me that idler pulley on my 96 4.0 where the nose bevel was waay to deep.

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post #13 of 13 Old 10-05-2017, 12:08 PM Thread Starter
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It's fixed..my local place had it in stock and it's nice and quiet now
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