Bushing gap? - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 16 Old 09-20-2013, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
ZJNewbi3
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Bushing gap?

I got 26mm MOOG front sway bar bushings. I went out to see if it would fit. When on the bar, there is a small gap and the bushing doesn't fully wrap around the bar. Is this normal? Would the gap close when I put the bracket back on?


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post #2 of 16 Old 09-20-2013, 03:05 PM
zjosh93
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It's normal and it will close when you put the bracket on.
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post #3 of 16 Old 09-20-2013, 03:22 PM Thread Starter
ZJNewbi3
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Originally Posted by zjosh93 View Post
It's normal and it will close when you put the bracket on.
GREAT NEWS thank you!

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post #4 of 16 Old 09-21-2013, 12:08 PM Thread Starter
ZJNewbi3
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So I'm trying to put the bushings in and I'm having a little problem. When I get the bracket on, and tighten down one of the bolts MAYBE two threads in, I go to start the other and it doesn't want to reach to thread into the hole. I've tried pushing the bracket with all my force, nothing. Tried taking the nut off the top of the sway bar link to get more room/freedom to push, still nothing. Tried using vice grips to clamp squeeze the bracket and frame, nothing. Any ideas? Should I get 28MM bushings? I measured the bar and came with 26MM and I'm using 26MM...It's supposed to be an easy replacement...
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post #5 of 16 Old 09-21-2013, 01:26 PM Thread Starter
ZJNewbi3
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found that the new bushing doesnt want to fit flush with the bracket when full seated like the old one does. This I THINK causes my problem

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post #6 of 16 Old 09-21-2013, 08:38 PM
zjosh93
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My front poly bushings were universal so I used the brackets that came with them. They did have a small gap until tightened down but the gap was maybe 1/16" to 1/8". Is the bracket making the gap in the bushing open up in that first pic? That looks like more than a small gap. How did you measure your sway bar? I use my digital caliper but you can use an adjustable wrench (crescent) adjusted tight on the bar and then measure the gap. When you say it won't sit flush when fully seated do you mean that it sits in the bracket with just a small gap but sticks out past the mounting flange? The poly is harder than rubber so it can be harder to get everything bolted down but it sounds like you may have some other issue.
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post #7 of 16 Old 09-21-2013, 08:50 PM
newfieZJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZJNewbi3 View Post
found that the new bushing doesnt want to fit flush with the bracket when full seated like the old one does. This I THINK causes my problem
Make sure all rust is cleaned from behind the bracket . The new bushing fills it up pretty good . I've had issues getting them back on occasionally . I suggest a dab of grease on the bracket side of the bushing . Also , if you can apply some pressure via a jack/wood block , you won't have an issue getting them on . Most times , I can apply just enough force pushing against the bar .
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post #8 of 16 Old 09-21-2013, 09:52 PM Thread Starter
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It was the rust issue...that stuff is like cancer

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post #9 of 16 Old 09-21-2013, 09:58 PM
newfieZJ
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Originally Posted by ZJNewbi3 View Post
It was the rust issue...that stuff is like cancer
You're all bolted up I assume ?

Your gonna notice a nice improvement with these new bushings . I change them regularly . Twice so far on the Slate 5.9 and soon due again in 4 years . Typically , they are soft and worn out in about 15-20k .
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post #10 of 16 Old 09-22-2013, 12:02 AM Thread Starter
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You're all bolted up I assume ?

Your gonna notice a nice improvement with these new bushings . I change them regularly . Twice so far on the Slate 5.9 and soon due again in 4 years . Typically , they are soft and worn out in about 15-20k .
Yup! Now time for the rear! All four bolts are rusted and can't be removed with a 19v battery impact wrench, or ratchet and I have no access to air tools. I think I literally have to breaker-bar these all the way off with brute force...

Does anyone know if the rear bolts are the same spec as the front? I'm just going to buy 4 new ones to replace em...

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post #11 of 16 Old 09-22-2013, 12:45 PM
JeepNicholson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZJNewbi3 View Post

Yup! Now time for the rear! All four bolts are rusted and can't be removed with a 19v battery impact wrench, or ratchet and I have no access to air tools. I think I literally have to breaker-bar these all the way off with brute force...

Does anyone know if the rear bolts are the same spec as the front? I'm just going to buy 4 new ones to replace em...
Grade 10.9, M14 x 2.0 x 105mm (lower arms)

I used a jack and a ratchet to get my bolts off and a good amount of PB blaster.
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post #12 of 16 Old 09-22-2013, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JeepNicholson View Post
Grade 10.9, M14 x 2.0 x 105mm (lower arms)

I used a jack and a ratchet to get my bolts off and a good amount of PB blaster.
I was actually talking about the sway bar bushing bracket bolts BUT I'll probably need that information soon anyway. And I broke one bolt already, the other three are still in.

Just trying to keep her goin'!!
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post #13 of 16 Old 09-22-2013, 12:53 PM
JeepNicholson
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Originally Posted by ZJNewbi3 View Post

I was actually talking about the sway bar bushing bracket bolts BUT I'll probably need that information soon anyway. And I broke one bolt already, the other three are still in.
Oh lol woops

No idea why I thought that.
Maybe somebody secretly replaced my coffee with decaf. And the Browns are winning, so something is definitely off today.
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post #14 of 16 Old 09-22-2013, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
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Well...the extractor snapped inside the broken bolt...guess I gotta take it to a mechanic Thursday to get it fully fixed...joy...

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post #15 of 16 Old 09-22-2013, 10:28 PM
speedbucket
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Rear sway bar was worthless to me. I never noticed it gone.....


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V8 zj at 6" . Double tri rear and true 3 link front. Stretched to 108"
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