For the front Track Bar I re-drilled the hole 3/4 of an inch to the right (center of hole to center of hole)and just up slightly so you donít get to close to the edge of the bracket. I did this cause the existing hole had become egg shaped over the years.
And for the rear I went Isolator BB then Spring. I also used a Tub Drain seal fitting to hold the BB snug to the Spring Retainer.
I also Extended the Spring Posts as well replaced all the Sway Bar Bushings and End Links.
Looks good, thank you very much for the pics. Did you use that tub gasket on top of the spacers? I thought about replacing the existing rubber spacer things that are currently in there, but I didn't see the need as the new 2" BB spacers take the place of that, no?
Here's what I'm talking about..
The one on the left is the stock piece that I'm talking about. Rubber. The new BB is a high density poly plastic. I didn't put the existing rubber on top of the new BB... So all I have right now is this..
Post > Spacer > Bump Stop > Spring.
I have pictures too I can upload if that doesn't make sense. However, yours looks like you used the rubber AND the poly?
Some people dont use the existing stock isolators some people do. The idea behind using the stock isolator is to one protect the new Budget boost thats why it goes between the spring and the budget boost it is also made of metal and soft rubber which helps absorb some of the shock which also protects the unibody and it add just a lil more lift with them in there. For the back it is a differet story. Because the new budget boost is bigger then the existing stock isolator it dosent fit right. So what i did for the back is keep the existing isolator in the stock position then i put the tub gasket on then positioned it so it went in the new Budget boost to sure everthing up.
So just to clear things up the stock isolators are used in the lift
The front they go between the bb and the spring
In the rear they stay where they are then the bb goes on top.
Here's a pic of how I have it setup right now.. I don't foresee any issues. The other pictures are of my bump stops and my plan to work those into the bump stop cup bolt holes, however.. The bit that said 1/2" was actually mis-stamped, and cut the hole too large. Now my idea is to fill the entire welded section with a construction adhesive, put the bolt through the bump stop, into the cup bolt hole, and hold it there til the adhesive dries. Worse comes to worst, I cut that section and reweld a threaded pipe into there. Not a big deal, but I think it'll be alright.
Everything that has been replaced thus far has been from MOOG. End links, bushings, etc.
The issue was I wasn't sure how to mount those bump stops properly... I saw that they had bolt holes, so I figured what the heck.. my work sells those super cheap to employees so I bought a couple 6"x1/2"dia bolts and called it a day. My original plan had been to drill the holes to 7/16" and tap them to 1/2" but that failed.. So I don't know what I'm going to do now lol. Guess the adhesive method stated above. Both sides of the front sway bar (bushings) will be replaced, as well as the mounting brackets and bolts.
Shock bushings are pressed in, and ready for mounting. Front end is being buttoned up once I figure out the deal with these bump stops, and then it's onto the rear!
Place to buy them? Summit racing has them for $50 (little expensive) from Skyjacker (again... worthless) and can ship out tomorrow, issue is I don't really wanna spend $50 on a set of 2, when I know I can get them for around 8-$12/pair.
I went to the stealership to get them autozone or advanced might have them.
Did u save the metal cap and rubber stopper from the original front bump stop cause I think that long bolt goes in the cap then the rubber stop in the cap.
The long bolt I have in the picture is a bolt I bought from work. The idea was because my stock "cups" were so rusted I didn't even want to acid bath them because I knew they would fall apart. So my thinking was I take that long 6" x 1/2"dia. bolt, put it through the bottom of the bump stop like I have shown, drill the smaller bolt (original bump stop cup bolt) out to 1/2" and thread it to 1/2"-13. That failed. The hole was too big, and the metal on the post itself is only about 1/8-1/4" thick. Not enough to even thread. I was under the assumption that the entire post was solid steel. So at this point, I have to mount that bump stop somehow. As stated previously, I'm going to get a super high strength industrial adhesive, fill the hole completely, shove the bolt in the bumpstop, and then up into that hole, and strap it down. Once that adhesive dries, it'll be solid. Not much more I can do. I've found them in iron rock offroad for around $50 for fronts/rears, so I might just do that. Secondly, they have a rear spring retaining kit for like $30. I'm just gonna buy that as well because my arc welder is not working, and I really don't want to go lug my mig welder across town to my house. Not to mention the two tanks lol. Hopefully they can be here soon, because I'm out of a car right now lol. Garage queen is getting some work done as well. I'm not too happy lol. I thought this project was going to be a quick 1-2 day job and be done... 3 weeks later :/
For the fronts I'd counter drill ur extended bump so the bolt head won't hit ur axle if flexed all the way. But if u flex it all the way youll have other problems. And if u want it compleat the JY should have some.