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post #1 of 63 Old 08-28-2011, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
VolcomPunk
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Budget Boost

So i bought a 1.75" budget boost. now, my question is what is the best possible way to go about installing it? am i goin to have disassemble the entire front end to install em or could i just use spring compressors to take the springs out and put them in?


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post #2 of 63 Old 08-28-2011, 11:46 PM
fisher1630
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This has been covered many times, but since I just got done doing this 2days ago I will help you out. The back is the easiest, disconnect sway bar and shocks and you can easily get the springs out and put them back in with the spacers. The front, disconnect shocks, sway bar and track bar, I needed a spring compressor to get the springs back in with the spacers. All in all pretty simple, soak stuff with nut buster in advance and take your time. Impact gun comes in handy.
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post #3 of 63 Old 08-29-2011, 10:55 AM
RedneckZJ
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a lift and impact makes it a hell of a lot easier but if you dont have access to it just soak everything down in pb blaster every day a few days before installing it. then for the front i just disconnected the track bar and lower control arms. for the rear i only disconnected the track bar. idk if you have upcountry or not so ill warn you anyway. the trackbars are a real ***** to get to line back up perfectly so a come a long is also a big help to get the track bars lined back up

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post #4 of 63 Old 08-29-2011, 11:24 AM
fisher1630
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I did not disconnect the rear trackbar or any control arms. Also for the front track bar just have someone give you a hand and turn the steering wheel to get it lined up.
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post #5 of 63 Old 08-29-2011, 12:25 PM
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Put the front on jack stands, remove the tires, disconnect the sway bar, disconnect the shocks, and unbolt the brake lines. Jack the opposite end of the axle you are working on as far as it will go and make sure you unbolt the spring retaining clips. At this point you should be able to take out the bump stops or may not have to take them off. Every jeep is different. You may be able to slip the spring of with out compressing it and slide the bb onto the post. Reinstall. Do the same for the other side and if you use compressors be safe and don't take your head off.
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post #6 of 63 Old 08-29-2011, 01:17 PM Thread Starter
VolcomPunk
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thanks for the advice and tips...and i realize that this topic has been covered many a times on this forum...really i juss lookin for some pointers in making this job a lil easier

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post #7 of 63 Old 09-06-2011, 11:05 PM Thread Starter
VolcomPunk
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ok so i started tearing down the front end but i ran out of daylight by the time i got to the track bar so im letting that soak in PB blaster. now quick question: the bolt circled in red...that is the trac bar bolt correct? and sorry in advance if the pic comes out big but i dont think is should.
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post #8 of 63 Old 09-07-2011, 12:19 AM
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post #9 of 63 Old 09-07-2011, 09:55 AM
mojop79
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I just did a bb and recommend changing your track bar if its original, or at least replace the bushings. If its more than two inches, you'll probably need an adjustable track bar. Might as well do all that while you have it apart. Make sure you torque it down to 40 pounds. All this prevents death wobble.
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post #10 of 63 Old 09-07-2011, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mojop79 View Post
I just did a bb and recommend changing your track bar if its original, or at least replace the bushings. If its more than two inches, you'll probably need an adjustable track bar. Might as well do all that while you have it apart. Make sure you torque it down to 40 pounds. All this prevents death wobble.
I just talked to Nick Kolak about how far off the axle would be with a 2" bb and he said "Hi,

No - they are not necessary at 2" of lift. The axles won't even be off-center by 1/4".

Nick"

I wouldn't worry about it.
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post #11 of 63 Old 09-07-2011, 12:00 PM Thread Starter
VolcomPunk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mojop79 View Post
I just did a bb and recommend changing your track bar if its original, or at least replace the bushings.
i do indeed have new bushings for the track bar as well as a new drag end link. but i ran into a problem with the drag end link. seems like the new one i have is a thinner on the end where it threads in at. so i gotta run back up to 4 wheel parts and see if they can switch it out and give me a proper one...ya know, maybe one that will actually fit

and i almost wanna go get an impact wrench to bust the one nut loose on the passenger side of the trac bar. even after letting it soak for 2 or 3 days in PB blaster i still cant that mofo to bust loose.

lunch time

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post #12 of 63 Old 09-07-2011, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
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juss for reference....the drag end link on the RIGHT is my NEW one and the one on the LEFT is my OLD one.
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post #13 of 63 Old 09-07-2011, 01:00 PM
mojop79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PolkaPower

I just talked to Nick Kolak about how far off the axle would be with a 2" bb and he said "Hi,

No - they are not necessary at 2" oft lift. The axles won't even be off-center by 1/4".

Nick"

I wouldn't worry about it.
Yeah, like I said anything over 2" might need one. I did a 2" and I don't think my axle moved any.
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post #14 of 63 Old 09-07-2011, 01:04 PM
mojop79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VolcomPunk

i do indeed have new bushings for the track bar as well as a new drag end link. but i ran into a problem with the drag end link. seems like the new one i have is a thinner on the end where it threads in at. so i gotta run back up to 4 wheel parts and see if they can switch it out and give me a proper one...ya know, maybe one that will actually fit

and i almost wanna go get an impact wrench to bust the one nut loose on the passenger side of the trac bar. even after letting it soak for 2 or 3 days in PB blaster i still cant that mofo to bust loose.

lunch time
That track bar bolt is hard. Are you removing the track bar while on jack stands? Try doing it with wheels on the ground. Same when re-installing the track bar. We made the mistake of trying to do it while in the air and it was a pain!
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post #15 of 63 Old 09-07-2011, 01:39 PM
PolkaPower
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Just put a breaker bar on it it will come off.
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