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Unread 03-25-2007, 07:05 PM   #1
djdoug99
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Brakes question

Right before I come to a complete stop my brakes grind and I hear an annoying noise. It doesnt do this when I am slowing down from say 40mph to 20mph. Also when I am at a complete stop and when I let my foot off the brake lightly it grinds as well. Any ideas?

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Unread 03-25-2007, 07:31 PM   #2
Ds4x4
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have you taken a look at the rotors? sounds like you have bad/worn pads.. Pop the wheel off and take a gander.. depending on where you go you can get OEM pads+rotors cheap.. i did mine for under $200 for all four.. Meineke wanted $700+
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Unread 03-25-2007, 07:58 PM   #3
Vestjam
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Agreed...

Sounds like you are about due for brakes... I just did mine this weekend. 4 rotors and pads for under $170 (Autozone - Duralast rotors(2 yr) & pads (limited lifetime)
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Unread 03-25-2007, 10:04 PM   #4
TheCompound
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vestjam
Agreed...

Sounds like you are about due for brakes... I just did mine this weekend. 4 rotors and pads for under $170 (Autozone - Duralast rotors(2 yr) & pads (limited lifetime)

X2
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Unread 03-26-2007, 06:49 AM   #5
98ZJ SFD
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How mechanically inclined do you have to be to do your brakes? I need to replace my rear rotors and pads. Meineke wants $325, the stealership wants $500 (apparently, the kid wasn't sure).
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Unread 03-26-2007, 06:55 AM   #6
anticrombie
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It's like 4 bolts to change rotors and pads, it's really easy.

Remove wheel, ubolt caliper, hang caliper or rest on bucket as to not put the wieght on the hose, remove caliper, use c-clamp to compress caliper pistons, install new rotor, install new pads, bolt back up
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Unread 03-26-2007, 07:16 AM   #7
98ZJ SFD
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You make it sound so easy.

Is there any brake line bleeding that needs to be done? I think I may attempt to change the brakes myself, and just dedicate an afternoon to it. I'd love it if there was a step-by-step tutorial.

This price isn't bad for 4 rotors and pads for all 4 rotors.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-...05028500QQrdZ1
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Unread 03-26-2007, 08:36 AM   #8
wjs81866
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If by chance it isn't the pads/rotors. I would check the emergency brake; they tend to rust out pretty bad and then sometimes if you pull the lever they will move enough to rub in certain situations. Drove me nuts for days until I realized the emergency brake pad inside the rotor was rubbing.
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Unread 03-26-2007, 09:09 AM   #9
checkittothemax
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I've been having the same problems. Front brakes squeeked, days later were grinding. Changed the rotors and brake pads to no avail. Still get the same squeeking noise. I'll have to check the e-brake.
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Unread 03-26-2007, 09:22 AM   #10
shudog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98ZJ SFD
You make it sound so easy.

Is there any brake line bleeding that needs to be done? I think I may attempt to change the brakes myself, and just dedicate an afternoon to it. I'd love it if there was a step-by-step tutorial.

This price isn't bad for 4 rotors and pads for all 4 rotors.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-...05028500QQrdZ1
That's crazy cheap. I need pads & rotors all around on my 98 ZJ also. Midas wanted $450+ and Murrays was about $250 for the parts assuming I went with the better Raybestos stuff. I have a hard time believing the stuff off ebay is of any sort of quality....
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Unread 03-26-2007, 09:30 AM   #11
98ZJ SFD
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Yeah that's what I was thinking...you get what you pay for. Jeepsareus.com has a rear brake kit for $129.99, and it looks like it comes with pads too.

http://www.jeepsareus.com/Merchant2/...egory_Code=GC1
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Unread 03-26-2007, 12:15 PM   #12
Ds4x4
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back to the Brake bleeding ??'s

if you don't open the brake line bleeder to press the piston back then No, you don't... use a C-Clamp to press the piston back into the caliper, it will force the fluid back up and you won't get air bubbles.. now if you do open the bleeder screw then yea, you will have to bleed the entire system..
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Unread 03-26-2007, 01:07 PM   #13
rrubio
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Make sure you pop open the brake fluid cap.Like said above unless you run dry or break a line you will not need to bleed the brakes.Save yourself a but load of money and do it yourself..
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Unread 03-26-2007, 01:16 PM   #14
98ZJ SFD
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Yeah, I'm leaning more and more towards doing it myself...just need to find the right rotors and pads. I'll probably just make a trip to Napa if the prices are comparable to what I've seen on eBay. I'm just not sure of the quality of stuff on eBay.

I'll be sure to open the brake fluid cap.
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Unread 03-26-2007, 04:15 PM   #15
Vestjam
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If I were you, I'd make the trip to napa. You may pay a little more, but you know you'll be getting a quality part that will have some sort of warranty.

It may take some extra time the for your first brake job, but you should not have may issues. Use a digital camera and take lots of pictures so you can compare as you move along or show us if you get stuck.

A few comments:
Once you get the brake caliper off, leave the rear pad on the caliper (it will be spring pressed into the caliper piston), use the c-clamp against the old pad and back of the caliper while you slowly tighten the c-clamp. The piston will move all the way to the rear of the caliper. Remove the old pad once the piston is all the way back. It will pull right out. The piston will stay seated and not move. Try not to let the caliper hang by the brake line. I usually let it rest on top of the upper ball joint, although, in the past, I'd hang it on a piece of hanger I had cut and bent into a 'U' to hold the caliper

Now is a good time to check the caliper pins. This is most likely where the two mounting bolts traveled through a sleeve (bushing) to secure the caliper to the bracket. You will notice that each side has a small rubber boot (think of it as a tiny shock boot cover) by grabbing each side (thumb/fore finger) you should be able to slide the sleeve back and forth. There will probably be some resistance, but should still be easy to move. IF your are feeling confident, you can pull these boots off and apply a bit of brake grease to the inside of the boot. The boots are sort of captured by a small lip on the sleeve and will go back on without much effort.

Now take your new rotor and put it on. Grab one of the bolts used to secure your wheel and tighten it up by hand so the rotor is held in place. Put the new pads on. Pay attention to the orientation of the pad. Obviously one will be seated into the caliper piston and the other will lock onto the front of the caliper. One end of the pad will have a 'slot' (bottom) and the other will not (take a look at one of those pictures you took before you removed everything). Generally, the 'slot' end will be on the bottom and ride along the caliper bracket foot. The other end (top)will simply index on top.

Slide the caliper into place paying carefull attention to moving the sleeve (remember the boots) to the rear of the caliper. This will allow the caliper to slide into position. Lubricate the bolts with the brake grease also (before you slide them into the sleeve). Now scecure the caliper with the bolts and tighten it up. I usually go for 'snug". The manual says 15 ft lbs of torque. Snug is fine, don't go crazy here.

You will probaly want to spray everything down with some brake cleaner before you attach the wheel. Grease from your hands is likely to be everywhere. Lots of smudges on your rotor...

Next... Put your wheel on and go do the other side now...
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