Bolt Pattern layout for water pump and alternator : a/c bracket 5.2L - JeepForum.com
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Unread 03-15-2014, 10:27 AM   #1
Flame
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Bolt Pattern layout for water pump and alternator : a/c bracket 5.2L

Well, I am replacing the water pump on my 1996 Orivs edition 5.2L ZJ. All was going well when the pan that I had for holding the bolts for the water pump and accessory bracket got knocked over. I thought I had all the bolts back in properly and still think I got the water pump bolts back in the correct pattern. After putting the alternator and a/c bracket back in place and still thinking I had the correct bolts in their respective place, I ended up with on long 4" bolt that I can not figure out where it goes.

I was just getting ready to put the top rad hose back on and fill system with coolant.

Does anyone have a layout of the bolt pattern for this job.

Greatly appreciate the help / advice this great site provides. Thanks!

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Unread 03-15-2014, 08:25 PM   #2
JasonStebbins
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Not sure about the 5.2L, but on my 4.0L the longer bolt was for the water pump on top.
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Unread 03-15-2014, 11:04 PM   #3
95knight
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So going off of memory when I did mine a month ago:
There are two bolts longer than anything others, those two go through the bracket into the heads, they are about 4/5"
Then the rest i think 5? bolts for the bracket are about 2/2.5" long and go in the holes you see.
In the pump there 7 total i believe, and they two longest are the farthest right and left holes.

Don't freak out that you lost a bolt cause there is an open hole, thats for the idler pully...took me a good 30 minutes to realize that sadly!

Hopefully that helps you, can take a look tomorrow to let you know.
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Unread 03-16-2014, 08:35 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonStebbins View Post
Not sure about the 5.2L, but on my 4.0L the longer bolt was for the water pump on top.
Thanks Jason. Also, your FAQ are well worth the effort you put in!
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Unread 03-16-2014, 08:36 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95knight View Post
So going off of memory when I did mine a month ago:
There are two bolts longer than anything others, those two go through the bracket into the heads, they are about 4/5"
Then the rest i think 5? bolts for the bracket are about 2/2.5" long and go in the holes you see.
In the pump there 7 total i believe, and they two longest are the farthest right and left holes.

Don't freak out that you lost a bolt cause there is an open hole, thats for the idler pully...took me a good 30 minutes to realize that sadly!

Hopefully that helps you, can take a look tomorrow to let you know.
I'll be returning to this job on Monday. Let me know what you find out if you have the time! Thanks again!
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Unread 03-17-2014, 06:44 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Flame View Post

I'll be returning to this job on Monday. Let me know what you find out if you have the time! Thanks again!
So since i cant see it really i belive the water pump it self has 7. Top is the shortest. The ones farther out on each side are the longer ones for the pump.

The bracket again 2 longest go into each head. Then there are 5/6/7 i forgot to count, other bolts like 2" that go in the other holes.

Also depending on if you were able to reuse the metal heater core return line on the right side you may or may not need to loose the water pump before you get that sides long head bolt out. Was a pita for me because my line was carroded in.
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Unread 03-17-2014, 09:36 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95knight View Post
Also depending on if you were able to reuse the metal heater core return line on the right side you may or may not need to loose the water pump before you get that sides long head bolt out. Was a pita for me because my line was corroded in.
It's hardly worth messing with the metal tube from the pump to the heater hose particularly if it's OE. A new one at the dealer is only $12 and $10 for an aftermarket one at a parts store. If there's a water pump core charge I just cut my old ones off at the large nut/fitting, or break it where rusted, and let them mess with it.
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Unread 03-17-2014, 06:21 PM   #8
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It's hardly worth messing with the metal tube from the pump to the heater hose particularly if it's OE. A new one at the dealer is only $12 and $10 for an aftermarket one at a parts store. If there's a water pump core charge I just cut my old ones off at the large nut/fitting, or break it where rusted, and let them mess with it.
What?!? I couldnt find one to save my life! Napa, autozone, orilley, and advanced didnt have it. Dealer wouldve been 4-6 weeks and online wouldve been like 2 weeks!
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Unread 03-18-2014, 04:19 AM   #9
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What?!? I couldnt find one to save my life! Napa, autozone, orilley, and advanced didnt have it. Dealer wouldve been 4-6 weeks and online wouldve been like 2 weeks!
Sorry about that and it's the water pump inlet tube for the 4.0 that's available everywhere rather than the push in type w/o-ring for the 5.2. My mistake in thinking it would be easy to find as the one available below at most parts stores around here. I ended up getting one from the dealer for my 96 4.0 since they had plenty in stock. Sorry.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/d...erm=water+pump
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Unread 03-18-2014, 04:44 AM   #10
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My water pump (from Napa) came with a new heater core outlet tube, but it was a lot shorter than the original. I just transferred the 0-ring to the old tube and used it. I didn't want to mess with extending the heater core hose.

As for the long bolts, I think top left and top right, as mentioned before, are correct.
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Unread 03-18-2014, 06:15 PM   #11
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Sorry for the slow response OP, but I had to dig through my Jeep stuff for a bit to find the bolt length/placement sketches i did for the water pump and accessory bracket. Hope I found them in time to help you. I think the lengths written are for the entire length of the bolt, not just the shank length.







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Unread 03-27-2014, 11:03 AM   #12
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Sorry for the slow response OP, but I had to dig through my Jeep stuff for a bit to find the bolt length/placement sketches i did for the water pump and accessory bracket. Hope I found them in time to help you. I think the lengths written are for the entire length of the bolt, not just the shank length.







No jokes about my terrible Sharpie skills, haha.
NO PROBLEM and thanks for the greatly detailed diagram!! JK!

Seriously, Great JOB, but I already got her put back together and the bolt that I thought was missing and throwing the count off was the bolt I had kept in the serpentine belt tensioner!...MY BAD....but all is well...EXCEPT...I have no heat!! And I think the culprit is a stuck thermostat 'cause I have tried everything else. No Air Pockets, correct fluid amount. and have put over 600 miles on it and last night I drove 200 miles with little to no heat. Another NEW Thermostat will be installed in the next day or two and I'll report back my results!...THANKS Everyone for helping...!!
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Unread 03-27-2014, 11:43 AM   #13
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If your thermostat is stuck open, it can cause a no-heat situation and the engine won't warm up. Stuck closed = overheating engine and LOTS of heat. Is your coolant temp gauge showing normal temps? If your gauge is showing normal operating temperatures and no heat from the fan, you may still have air trapped in the system or a plugged heater core.
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Unread 03-27-2014, 04:44 PM   #14
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If your thermostat is stuck open, it can cause a no-heat situation and the engine won't warm up. Stuck closed = overheating engine and LOTS of heat. Is your coolant temp gauge showing normal temps? If your gauge is showing normal operating temperatures and no heat from the fan, you may still have air trapped in the system or a plugged heater core.
Thanks for the reply. How about this scenario...Engine temp will not climb above 210. Just did a 350 mile trip thru hills of Western PA. Climbing some of the mountains the temp gauge never wavered. Very little heat and outside temps were in high teens to low 30's F. What if TStat is stuck "partially" open...or closed? Top rad hose is hot. Heater hose on passenger side is warm to touch. Heater hose with metal pipe going into water pump is not that warm. Anyone can chime in on what could be the problem. Had plenty of heat before I changed water pump and TStat. No leaks and I thought I got all air out. Even installed NEW 18 psi rad cap. ....HELP!...
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Unread 03-27-2014, 07:25 PM   #15
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210 sounds like a pretty normal operating temp, if it's that high you should have heat regardless of if your thermo is stuck - and there's nothing to indicate it would be. Have you tried backflushing your heater core? It may have just gotten clogged up, not allowing warm coolant to flow through it to the return hose that you mentioned feels cold.
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