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Unread 03-06-2014, 06:18 AM   #46
Timo_90xj
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bad cell phone pics.. but here's mine on the 32s. Front WB extension is one of the keys to get enough room for larger tires. I've always said the CA lengths lift kit manufacturers specify are wrong - they just don't work IMO. I've got around 1.5" to 1.75" of WB extension, works a lot better than the "correct" length at my lift height.

On level ground, at the back of the wheelwell at full lock:



Drivers' side at full lock, front of tire. This looks a bit weird, but the knuckles are touching steering stops. At full articulation, tire is about 1" off from the sway bar.



Another view:


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1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...

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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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Unread 03-06-2014, 06:44 AM   #47
riot1987
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Hey Timo, extending your front CA's didnt interfere with your body side coil mounts or nothing?
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Unread 03-06-2014, 08:23 AM   #48
Timo_90xj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riot1987 View Post
Hey Timo, extending your front CA's didnt interfere with your body side coil mounts or nothing?
You can go about 1"-1.25" forward fairly easily. More than that it's more of a adjust, check through the travel, re-adjust, re-check - sort of a thing. It all depends on your lift height, tire size, wheel size, etc.. I ran about 1.25" or slightly more front WB extension without issues on stock steering. Did not rub the coils on the coil towers, but it was close at full droop.

When I did the WJ knuckle/brake/ steering conversion, I extended the WB a bit more, and re-centered the coil buckets on the axle. Gave me a bit more room on the already tight fit with the tierod flipped OTK.
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1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...

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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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Unread 03-07-2014, 08:30 AM   #49
000shock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timo_90xj
You can go about 1"-1.25" forward fairly easily. More than that it's more of a adjust, check through the travel, re-adjust, re-check - sort of a thing. It all depends on your lift height, tire size, wheel size, etc.. I ran about 1.25" or slightly more front WB extension without issues on stock steering. Did not rub the coils on the coil towers, but it was close at full droop. When I did the WJ knuckle/brake/ steering conversion, I extended the WB a bit more, and re-centered the coil buckets on the axle. Gave me a bit more room on the already tight fit with the tierod flipped OTK.
Hey timo...is that measured level from back to front (fender to axle center for example) or at the control arms (at a slight angle)? How much can you do the same to the rear?
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shock
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Unread 03-07-2014, 09:06 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 000shock View Post
Hey timo...is that measured level from back to front (fender to axle center for example) or at the control arms (at a slight angle)? How much can you do the same to the rear?
I checked the LCA length from the charts they recommend for the lift height, then added whatever WB stretch I wanted to that number. UCAs I always adjust according to pinion angle, not for a specific length (ie., check pinion angle is correct, adjust UCAs according to that).


In the rear I've extended about 1.5", can't go much further than that.


But, as I mentioned going with longer link lengths is always a trial-and-error- type of setup, you really have to check through the whole tarvel range with the tires mounted that you don't run into any issues. I tested without coils, it's much easier to do all the little tweaking if (most likely when ) needed.
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1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/d...s-etc-1222317/


1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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Unread 03-07-2014, 06:23 PM   #51
riot1987
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Good info man. Thanks man Im going to try adding a bit to my arms and see what happens
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Unread 03-07-2014, 06:34 PM   #52
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Yea, same when I get there.

Anyone know a good thread on home made sway bar discos? I know I've read one but can't find it again.

EDIT* disregard...googled it and its just worth the ~$80 for the real thing.
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shock
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Unread 03-19-2014, 11:10 PM   #53
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I kind of helped the thread stray...

how bout more pics!

maybe add in extreme trimming, not just cut/fold!
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Unread 03-20-2014, 01:29 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedbucket View Post
you posted a pic talking about going lock to lock at full bump at a point in your build where in said picture, you couldn't
its funny how these guys with over 3K posts "think" they know what they are talking about, like: you are going to cut your tires up, you can't even flex on a curb, oh and the i second that comment, and here i am with only 6 months or so of ZJ experience making it happen and schooling the veterans (not all, but the 3 that commented on my 33s)

i am not trying to bash, but you guys should not just start throwing **** out there if you are not 100% sure as to what you are conveying, case and point, my rig

and this is with only 2" of bump-stop in the front and 3" in the rear

-no cut up tires
-tackling obstacles larger than a curb
-plenty of up-travel and droop
you guys need to update your crystal balls as they are feeding you false information

i know i do not have the best parts on my rig, but i have a mortgage, wife and 3 kids, 3 running 4X4s and my wife is a stay at home mom, with that being said, i am very happy with my rig and how it performs, i am hanging with a CJ7 and early bronc both on 35s locked front and rear, i am always hearing from them "i can't believe you were able to follow us through that"

i had fun for a while till my son took over, the lil guy would not stop asking to drive, he put a nice dent on my passenger side rocker, good thing is now i can justify sliders to the wife

bronc and CJ are in this pic
















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Unread 03-20-2014, 02:12 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huntsducks70
its funny how these guys with over 3K posts "think" they know what they are talking about, like: you are going to cut your tires up, you can't even flex on a curb, oh and the i second that comment, and here i am with only 6 months or so of ZJ experience making it happen and schooling the veterans (not all, but the 3 that commented on my 33s) i am not trying to bash, but you guys should not just start throwing **** out there if you are not 100% sure as to what you are conveying, case and point, my rig and this is with only 2" of bump-stop in the front and 3" in the rear -no cut up tires -tackling obstacles larger than a curb -plenty of up-travel and droop you guys need to update your crystal balls as they are feeding you false information i know i do not have the best parts on my rig, but i have a mortgage, wife and 3 kids, 3 running 4X4s and my wife is a stay at home mom, with that being said, i am very happy with my rig and how it performs, i am hanging with a CJ7 and early bronc both on 35s locked front and rear, i am always hearing from them "i can't believe you were able to follow us through that" i had fun for a while till my son took over, the lil guy would not stop asking to drive, he put a nice dent on my passenger side rocker, good thing is now i can justify sliders to the wife bronc and CJ are in this pic
Then post a pic or your zj at turned at full Lock while flexing like in this pic to prove him wrong.
image-364868532.jpg

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Unread 03-20-2014, 02:51 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by roughknight69 View Post
Then post a pic or your zj at turned at full Lock while flexing like in this pic to prove him wrong.
the proof is that i did not cut up my tires

do you think i went a full day of wheeling without having to turn at full stuff, if you do, then i wouldn't want to wheel your trails, i am required to turn when i wheel, i know it seems unrealistic, but it does happen

you want in, no prob, next outing i will show you how its done. not sure if it will be this weekend, but if i do get out, i will prove i am right, i am not here to prove people wrong which seems to be the MO for most







i will get more when i get out
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Unread 03-20-2014, 04:14 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huntsducks70
the proof is that i did not cut up my tires do you think i went a full day of wheeling without having to turn at full stuff, if you do, then i wouldn't want to wheel your trails, i am required to turn when i wheel, i know it seems unrealistic, but it does happen you want in, no prob, next outing i will show you how its done. not sure if it will be this weekend, but if i do get out, i will prove i am right, i am not here to prove people wrong which seems to be the MO for most i will get more when i get out
Are you not rubbing in those pictures? Sure looks like it from the chipped paint. Don't be a **** to me because I suggested you show proof that it for sure doesn't.

Edit: how much have you cut and hammered besides the fender trim? I had 33s on 3.5 in and I had to trim/ hammer ALOT even still seams close in the inner fender with 4.5 in lift my buddy also has 33s and my old 3.5 in lift. But he has no bump stops and keeps sways connected. (No idea why lol) and wheels it regularly. I thought this whole argument was about not trimming with 4in of lift.
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Unread 03-20-2014, 04:44 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by roughknight69 View Post
Are you not rubbing in those pictures? Sure looks like it from the chipped paint. Don't be a **** to me because I suggested you show proof that it for sure doesn't.

Edit: how much have you cut and hammered besides the fender trim? I had 33s on 3.5 in and I had to trim/ hammer ALOT even still seams close in the inner fender with 4.5 in lift my buddy also has 33s and my old 3.5 in lift. But he has no bump stops and keeps sways connected. (No idea why lol) and wheels it regularly. I thought this whole argument was about not trimming with 4in of lift.

sorry, i have to make this quick. the argument was that my tires would get "cut up", not that they would not rub.

chipped paint was from the hammer, i do rub, but no cut here.

sorry about the response, but, there is so much speculation here and guess work, hope you understand
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Unread 03-20-2014, 04:52 PM   #59
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Wow. What a **** show.

I had 35s on mine with only a 3.5" lift. Slight trimming on both bumpers, some trimming and hammering in the front wheel well. Had to dial in wheel spacers, bump stops and limiting straps to make it work but it worked just fine.

^^still never saw this.
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Unread 03-20-2014, 05:02 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huntsducks70
sorry, i have to make this quick. the argument was that my tires would get "cut up", not that they would not rub. chipped paint was from the hammer, i do rub, but no cut here. sorry about the response, but, there is so much speculation here and guess work, hope you understand
Ah I see, you must have everything hammered well then, with in my first few days with out hammering more than I thought I needed I cut my mtrs 2 $350 tires cut on the outside :

Though none of the cuts were in danger of destroying the wheel more superficial than anything.
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