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Unread 03-05-2014, 11:57 AM   #31
000shock
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I'm still standin by for a pic of a rig with 3.5" and 35's. It's already been said, but with metal, a torch and a welder, anything is possible. This just seems a bit of a stretch, to be reasonable anyways.

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shock
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Unread 03-05-2014, 12:59 PM   #32
000shock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedbucket
Im throw in a flag on this one. Maybe before you bump stopped? No way yo go lock to lock like that. I had more lift and bump stop and bent the fender out about 3" with the tire. Riot. I agree with timo. I also like up travel. A lot of the long arm kits that flex well are running a 28" shock with 2" up and 10 down. My shocks are 34" shocks and I set mine up for 4" up 10 down. In an off camber situation, up travel can keep all 4 in the dirt.
Unless I'm mistaken, the pic you quoted was with 31's. Not his 33's he has now. Even still, lock to lock looks like it would be pretty tight. But definitely more likely with 31x10.50's vs 33x12.50's.
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shock
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Unread 03-05-2014, 02:29 PM   #33
Timo_90xj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 000shock View Post
I'm still standin by for a pic of a rig with 3.5" and 35's. It's already been said, but with metal, a torch and a welder, anything is possible. This just seems a bit of a stretch, to be reasonable anyways.
It really depends what you find reasonable or don't I enjoy fabbing stuff, and I like doing things a bit more involved than bolt- on stuff. Prebuilt parts are often compromises at least to some extent, and I don't like to compromise unless I have to


Here's a picture at full flex and full lock, on 32 x 11.50s and 1.75" BB, 1" bumpstop added in the front. As you can notice I've still got some room to go bigger; as I mentioned 35 x 12.50s would be a damn tight fit, but they should anyways You can't see the backside of the front wheelwell here, but there's about 1.75" room behind the tire @ full lock. Front is about the same.

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1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...

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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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Unread 03-05-2014, 03:08 PM   #34
roughknight69
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I had to cut/hammer a ton just to have my 33s fit at full lock on 4.5in. Keep in mind these pics were before my iro arms etc.
image-1084424565.jpg

image-2953546139.jpg

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Unread 03-05-2014, 03:18 PM   #35
Timo_90xj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roughknight69 View Post
I had to cut/hammer a ton just to have my 33s fit at full lock on 4.5in. Keep in mind these pics were before my iro arms etc.
Both of those areas are certainly an issue, but they are an issue with 32"+ tires even at higher lift heights unless ~3" of bumpstopping is added. This is one of the reasons I prefer modifying the wheelwells by cutting & welding, because something has to be done anyways.

As for the control arms, stock CAs (all eight) should be the first things to go from a ZJ if it ever gets wheeled, no matter what lift height. They are nothing more than a huge pain in every possible way
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1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/d...s-etc-1222317/


1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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Unread 03-05-2014, 03:33 PM   #36
nicyousuckk
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Just to throw my .02 in there, I'm on 33's with 3.5 and I had to cut the front fenders, cut/pound the pinch seem on the back edge of the fender well, anndd... thats about it.

ADJ arms helped center everything... rear didn't take any modifcations at all.

I'm confident with a bit of extra work (not too much) 35's would work fine. Maybe remove / trim the rear bumper and extend the rear arms slightly.
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Unread 03-05-2014, 03:38 PM   #37
roughknight69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timo_90xj
Both of those areas are certainly an issue, but they are an issue with 32"+ tires even at higher lift heights unless ~3" of bumpstopping is added. This is one of the reasons I prefer modifying the wheelwells by cutting & welding, because something has to be done anyways. As for the control arms, stock CAs (all eight) should be the first things to go from a ZJ if it ever gets wheeled, no matter what lift height. They are nothing more than a huge pain in every possible way
I feel the same way, it would be awesome to cut/weld new inner fenders like metal cloak does for the wranglers. I agree the stock ca's are a pain my iro ones are so much better
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Unread 03-05-2014, 03:46 PM   #38
000shock
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/z...build-2161569/

Hey Roughknight, hit up my build ideas and let me know what you think. IRO arms are somethin I'm considering. Thanks.
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shock
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Unread 03-05-2014, 03:49 PM   #39
roughknight69
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Just took a pic of how close my mtr is when turning at full lock even with all the trimming
image-1996242308.jpg

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Unread 03-05-2014, 09:18 PM   #40
000shock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roughknight69 View Post
I feel the same way, it would be awesome to cut/weld new inner fenders like metal cloak does for the wranglers. I agree the stock ca's are a pain my iro ones are so much better
Spin off thread. It would prob look pretty ****ty to hijack my own thread!

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f260/.../#post20983361
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shock
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Unread 03-05-2014, 10:45 PM   #41
big98tnzj
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Im running 6 inches now with 33s and my tire still rubs the inside fenderwell on the driver side in reverse at full lock with the seam cut and hammered.

Sent from my tent in the woods using JeepForum
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Unread 03-06-2014, 12:12 AM   #42
000shock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big98tnzj
Im running 6 inches now with 33s and my tire still rubs the inside fenderwell on the driver side in reverse at full lock with the seam cut and hammered. Sent from my tent in the woods using JeepForum
Is that something you can clearance with a BFH massage? Or do you not have one in your tent!
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shock
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Unread 03-06-2014, 12:45 AM   #43
big98tnzj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 000shock View Post
Is that something you can clearance with a BFH massage? Or do you not have one in your tent!
Ive already taken a bfh to my seams and it still rubs on full lock only in reverse. I dont have any rubbing while wheeling. I dont understand it

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Unread 03-06-2014, 02:01 AM   #44
000shock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big98tnzj
Ive already taken a bfh to my seams and it still rubs on full lock only in reverse. I dont have any rubbing while wheeling. I dont understand it Sent from my tent in the woods using JeepForum
Only thing I can think of from there is if it's just a slight bit of axle wrap in reverse that's causing it to hit.
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Unread 03-06-2014, 07:13 AM   #45
Dark_Sorrow
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You have to understand as you lift and the control arms remain the same you pull the axle towards the rear. You need adjustable control arms to push the axle forward again.

I have a 6inch lift with 33's. I just got new tires and I was going to do 35's.... But my control arms would need to be pushed out again and its such a PIA that I said screw it and went with 33
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