biggest tires with 4" or less lift - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 94 Old 03-04-2014, 02:55 PM
riot1987
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DAYMMM BOIII!!!

Still diggin that 3 link front Speedy!


http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/riots-97-grand-1436100/

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post #17 of 94 Old 03-04-2014, 03:35 PM
huntsducks70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyZJ View Post
i'll save you teh wait. if he tries to flex it out on something bigger than a curb he's going to cut those pretty tires up and most likely rip the bumper off.


what tire fits' is relative to what you're building. if flexing less than an IFS truck is all you need then you can sure pop some fat tires on it. if you want it all flexy and stuff then you're not doing much more than a 33, with a bit of trimming.

again, thats all relative to what you think is 'flex'
nope, wrong. i am already cut, rolled and trimmed, i already added 4" of bump stop for the rear and the front will end up around 4" as well. sorry to disappoint, no bumpers will be ripped off or tires cut

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Ltd
5.2L, 231 Swap, 3.5in RE Fr Coils, RE Shocks, Fr to Rr, Front HD Clayton T-Bar and Bracket, Custom Raised Rear TB Axle Mount w/Stock Bar, Cut and Rolled Front Fenders, 15x8 w/31x10.50
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post #18 of 94 Old 03-04-2014, 06:23 PM Thread Starter
000shock
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Hunt has the same idea goin that I'm shootin for. I'm likely going with 33x10.50's tho (or metric equivilant). His look like 12.50's. As it is now, I'm on factory rubicon tires/rims with a 2" bb. Front bumper trimmed a bit and a little hammer action to the fender but not much. It also hasn't been on any rough trails at the same time tho. Mostly just playin in the snow.

Heres the link for what I'm considering for a build...chime in there if you have good or bad experience with any of my ideas!

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/z...build-2161569/

shock
slate 94 zj, 4.0, 46RE, 242, lp30/35, 3.73's, 3.5 RC/IRO, 255/75r17 Rubi BFG's on Moab 17's.
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post #19 of 94 Old 03-04-2014, 08:16 PM
huntsducks70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 000shock View Post
Hunt has the same idea goin that I'm shootin for. I'm likely going with 33x10.50's tho (or metric equivilant). His look like 12.50's. As it is now, I'm on factory rubicon tires/rims with a 2" bb. Front bumper trimmed a bit and a little hammer action to the fender but not much. It also hasn't been on any rough trails at the same time tho. Mostly just playin in the snow.

Heres the link for what I'm considering for a build...chime in there if you have good or bad experience with any of my ideas!

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/z...build-2161569/
hey shock, yup they are 12.50s. control arms will give you a lot more droop than the stockers, so that will help in the articulation department. here are some flex shots wearing the 31s I just traded for the 33s. i had it to where i could turn lock to lock stuffed to the bump-stop, will have to do a little trial and error with the new shoes but i am cool with that. i am going long arm in the near future, but the rig does good, really good for running oem arms.

it was cool wheelin with the 31s, but it is going to be a lot nicer with all that clearance under the pigs with the 33s.















1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Ltd
5.2L, 231 Swap, 3.5in RE Fr Coils, RE Shocks, Fr to Rr, Front HD Clayton T-Bar and Bracket, Custom Raised Rear TB Axle Mount w/Stock Bar, Cut and Rolled Front Fenders, 15x8 w/31x10.50

Last edited by huntsducks70; 03-04-2014 at 08:19 PM. Reason: added pics with cut fender
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post #20 of 94 Old 03-04-2014, 08:17 PM
riot1987
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radean84 View Post
I had 35s on mine with only a 3.5" lift. Slight trimming on both bumpers, some trimming and hammering in the front wheel well. Had to dial in wheel spacers, bump stops and limiting straps to make it work but it worked just fine.
Pics or it didnt happen.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/riots-97-grand-1436100/

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post #21 of 94 Old 03-04-2014, 08:27 PM
riot1987
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With a lot of trimming and bashing I was able to fit 35's on 6". I dont understand where everone is getting these 3.5" lifts and clearing 35" tires. What am I missing?
Attached Thumbnails
P1030398.JPG   P1030266.JPG   P1030281.JPG   P1030280.JPG  
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/riots-97-grand-1436100/

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post #22 of 94 Old 03-04-2014, 08:29 PM
riot1987
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I am not bumpstopped as much as I need to be up front but I still dont get how you can stuff 35's under these rigs with much less than 5-6"

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/riots-97-grand-1436100/

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post #23 of 94 Old 03-04-2014, 08:33 PM
riot1987
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Do you bumpstop the **** out of it so you have zero uptravel and your "flex" is all droop?

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/riots-97-grand-1436100/

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post #24 of 94 Old 03-04-2014, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
000shock
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Ha...you are a riot, for sure! I was laughing between your pics and comments as I was reading! But it's obvious...just trim your sway bars back! Honestly, from the pic I'd actually be afraid of a disco getting into a sidewall. That's a pretty 5.9 tho! *edit: got me with the hood louvers. Found it after reading your build!

I've heard theres something to minimal uptravel and max down. Keeps COG low. If you only have 2" to go up, but 12" down (at the shocks), you've still got 14" of travel. Just keep the speed below 5mph!

shock
slate 94 zj, 4.0, 46RE, 242, lp30/35, 3.73's, 3.5 RC/IRO, 255/75r17 Rubi BFG's on Moab 17's.

Last edited by 000shock; 03-05-2014 at 01:18 AM.
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post #25 of 94 Old 03-05-2014, 02:11 AM
Timo_90xj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riot1987 View Post
With a lot of trimming and bashing I was able to fit 35's on 6". I dont understand where everone is getting these 3.5" lifts and clearing 35" tires. What am I missing?
Keep in mind no matter what (reasonable) amount of lift height, you gotta bumpstop for larger tires. In other words, without bumpstopping you're gonna be pretty damn close to same "height" inside fenders at full bump with 6" of lift or stock height (unless the lift coils bottom out). You most likely had about 3" of bumpstopping with the 6" lift? So if you run 3" lift with 3" bumpstopping, you're at the same exact level at full bump. Obviously, you do have more uptravel with the higher lift so ride quality is better, and most likely you will have less body roll on certain situations because you're not instantly hitting bumpstops.

I myself prefer cutting as much metal out as required, plating the holes, and keeping the lift height fairly low (around 3"-4" max.), have as much uptravel as possible and run as large a tire as possible. With the current setup I've got now, I could just barely run 35s in the front with 1" more bumpstopping, and 2" at the back, and I'm only at 1.75" BB I would only have about two inches of uptravel in the front and around 4" in the rear though, so some added lift height would definitely come in handy with 35s if I chose to go that route.

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/d...s-etc-1222317/


1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #26 of 94 Old 03-05-2014, 04:35 AM
speedbucket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huntsducks70 View Post

Im throw in a flag on this one. Maybe before you bump stopped? No way yo go lock to lock like that. I had more lift and bump stop and bent the fender out about 3" with the tire.


Riot.
I agree with timo. I also like up travel. A lot of the long arm kits that flex well are running a 28" shock with 2" up and 10 down. My shocks are 34" shocks and I set mine up for 4" up 10 down. In an off camber situation, up travel can keep all 4 in the dirt.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/speedbuckets-zj-build-1361322/
V8 zj at 6" . Double tri rear and true 3 link front. Stretched to 108"
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post #27 of 94 Old 03-05-2014, 06:19 AM
Timo_90xj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedbucket View Post
Riot.
I agree with timo. I also like up travel. A lot of the long arm kits that flex well are running a 28" shock with 2" up and 10 down. My shocks are 34" shocks and I set mine up for 4" up 10 down. In an off camber situation, up travel can keep all 4 in the dirt.
Yeap, this exactly. I prefer having minimum 4" uptravel in the front, at the moment I've got about 3" free height between bumpstop and coil plate + how much the stock bumpstops compress (half an inch or so). I don't bottom out too easily, but I'd prefer a bit more.

In the rear it's easy to get 6" or more, I currently have about that with the 1.75" BB and 32s, so ie. 35s with 1" more lift + 1" more bumpstopping would work well since I've got just enough room for a 12.50" wide tire. Height- wise, I've got no issues nor lengthwise because of the extended WB and enlarged rear wheel openings.


Front is the real issue. ZJ wheel openings are small, so to get any real amount of uptravel with 33" or larger tires on low lift heights requires you to cut a lot of stuff out, smack in the pincheweld seam at the back of the wheelwell, and also extend the WB slightly. This is what I had to do to make 32s easily clear the front. With this setup though, 33s would be an easy fit, and 35s would barely work.


1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/d...s-etc-1222317/


1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #28 of 94 Old 03-05-2014, 09:23 AM
Maine1994ZJ
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I'm at 4" on 32x11.5s and I need lots of trimming if warmer weather ever comes.
Good thing my Mud Claws are thick because they look like they came in 9th place in a hatchet fight.
My Bushwackers are taking a beating as well.

'93 V8 ZJ Mountain Goat Edition.
'95 V8 ZJ Limited, '97 4.0L ZJ TSi
'96 4.0L 2wd XJ, '88 4.2L YJ
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post #29 of 94 Old 03-05-2014, 09:57 AM
huntsducks70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedbucket View Post
Im throw in a flag on this one. Maybe before you bump stopped? No way yo go lock to lock like that. I had more lift and bump stop and bent the fender out about 3" with the tire.


Riot.
I agree with timo. I also like up travel. A lot of the long arm kits that flex well are running a 28" shock with 2" up and 10 down. My shocks are 34" shocks and I set mine up for 4" up 10 down. In an off camber situation, up travel can keep all 4 in the dirt.
i am surprised you could not tell that the fenders were not cut in the pic you referenced, and you even have over 3K posts, what's wrong with this picture?

um, after i cut the front fenders, the pic you referenced was R&D before bump stop and cut, see below for the end product, you can pick up your flag.


1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Ltd
5.2L, 231 Swap, 3.5in RE Fr Coils, RE Shocks, Fr to Rr, Front HD Clayton T-Bar and Bracket, Custom Raised Rear TB Axle Mount w/Stock Bar, Cut and Rolled Front Fenders, 15x8 w/31x10.50

Last edited by huntsducks70; 03-05-2014 at 10:11 AM. Reason: added verbiage
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post #30 of 94 Old 03-05-2014, 10:11 AM
speedbucket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huntsducks70 View Post
um, after i cut the front fenders, the pic you referenced was R&D before bump stop and cut, see below for the end product, you can pick up your flag.

you posted a pic talking about going lock to lock at full bump at a point in your build where in said picture, you couldn't

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/speedbuckets-zj-build-1361322/
V8 zj at 6" . Double tri rear and true 3 link front. Stretched to 108"
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