A better cv joint axle shaft - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 16 Old 07-22-2009, 07:19 AM Thread Starter
wjcando
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A better cv joint axle shaft

I've seen a few complaints on this site about Advance cv joint shafts for WJ. Seeking opinions as to whether people think Rock Auto, Napa, OEM or something else are better.

Situation: 99 WJ, aussie locker in front D30. Blew out BOTH of the OEM cv joints almost simultaneously (wheeling it pretty hard). But they had 153K miles on them, so it was time perhaps.

Installed Advance Auto replacements, started wheeling again. One of the replacements blew within 3 hours (wasn't pushing as hard as earlier).

Now I've been looking at the $800 IRO solution, the mallcrawling thread, or an axle swap. But if Rock Auto or Napa cv shafts are better, I may try that first, carry spares, and keep wheeling with the aussie.

Any thoughts on that?


Frank "it-takes-a-village-to-wheel-a-WJ"
McLean, VA
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post #2 of 16 Old 07-22-2009, 07:43 AM
StrokedWJ
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Sounds like where I was about a year ago...I ended up going with the Dutchmans chromos from the MC thread.

Where are you breaking the CV's? Mine were breaking on the shaft at a neck down point where the shaft was machined down. The breaks I had with the Advance shafts were very clean almost like you'd taken a saw to it. If yours are breaking there, I'd say your SOL unless you manage to find some aftermarket shafts without the neck down.

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post #3 of 16 Old 07-22-2009, 09:08 AM
ArloGuthroJeep
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Is it the CV joint or the axle shaft that is breaking?

What size tire are you running?

In what situation are they breaking? Spinning tires and getting traction all of a sudden? Full lock with gas? etc...?

'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package
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post #4 of 16 Old 07-22-2009, 10:32 AM Thread Starter
wjcando
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Breaking the joint itself.

Running 32 inch (265/75/R16) Bighorns and aussie locker in front diff. When I broke the original joints/shafts with 153K miles on them, it was after an uphill obstacle that required more skinny pedal than I like (I usually avoid spinning and let the locker do the work). But the actual breaks occurred shortly after that, at full lock, going over a downhill obstacle so there wasn't much gas.

Later when I broke the replacement cv joint shaft from Advance Auto, it wasn't a heavy gas situation at all. I went through some rocks -- requiring some back and forth even with locker. A short while later I turned to the right and that cv joint broke.

The Advance replacement lasted such a short time that I wondered if I'd do better with a different brand. They replaced it under warranty, but that doesn't make up for the hassle of a trail break. Long run I need to think about axle swap, but right now I'm wondering if RockAuto or something else would be an improvement over Advance.

Thanks for your help!

Frank "it-takes-a-village-to-wheel-a-WJ"
McLean, VA
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post #5 of 16 Old 07-22-2009, 10:51 AM
ArloGuthroJeep
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CV joints are their weakest when they are turned. Since you're breaking the joints, a u-joint swap may be the easiest.

'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package
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post #6 of 16 Old 07-22-2009, 11:43 AM Thread Starter
wjcando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArloGuthroJeep View Post
CV joints are their weakest when they are turned. Since you're breaking the joints, a u-joint swap may be the easiest.
Agree, that would probably be easiest. But also looking into HP D30 swap and what all that would involve. Meanwhile, just wondering if people have better luck with other brands of cv joint axle shafts -- or not.

Frank "it-takes-a-village-to-wheel-a-WJ"
McLean, VA
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post #7 of 16 Old 07-22-2009, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjcando View Post
Agree, that would probably be easiest. But also looking into HP D30 swap and what all that would involve. Meanwhile, just wondering if people have better luck with other brands of cv joint axle shafts -- or not.
If you're going to swap in an axle you should look at a HP44. You'll have to do the same amount of work whether you swap a HP30 or HP44, and you'd be getting a better axle with the 44.

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post #8 of 16 Old 07-22-2009, 01:15 PM
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Swapping in another axle is going to mean a bolt pattern change on the wheels so adapters will be necessary. Keep that in mind when looking at axle widths.

'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package
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post #9 of 16 Old 08-16-2009, 10:34 AM Thread Starter
wjcando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjcando View Post
Breaking the joint itself.

Running 32 inch (265/75/R16) Bighorns and aussie locker in front diff. When I broke the original joints/shafts with 153K miles on them, it was after an uphill obstacle that required more skinny pedal than I like (I usually avoid spinning and let the locker do the work). But the actual breaks occurred shortly after that, at full lock, going over a downhill obstacle so there wasn't much gas.

Later when I broke the replacement cv joint shaft from Advance Auto, it wasn't a heavy gas situation at all. I went through some rocks -- requiring some back and forth even with locker. A short while later I turned to the right and that cv joint broke.

The Advance replacement lasted such a short time that I wondered if I'd do better with a different brand. They replaced it under warranty, but that doesn't make up for the hassle of a trail break. Long run I need to think about axle swap, but right now I'm wondering if RockAuto or something else would be an improvement over Advance.

Thanks for your help!
If anybody is wondering, the answer is no... RockAuto (Cardone) not really better. Did a day and a half of great wheeling at Rausch Creek, dark blues and blacks. Then on a nothing rock, turned too hard to passenger while giving a little gas. Pow!

Was all prepared for trail repair, but now it's time to do what I gotta do to replace with u-joint axle shafts.

Frank "it-takes-a-village-to-wheel-a-WJ"
McLean, VA
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post #10 of 16 Old 08-16-2009, 06:12 PM
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maybe you should take it out of 4wd when its not needed....also u joints are needed but you might be in the same boat with the u joints at full lock

pat

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post #11 of 16 Old 08-16-2009, 08:22 PM Thread Starter
wjcando
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has anybody extended the steering stop, and wouldn't that be one way to guarantee you never get to full lock?

it's part of the knuckle on a wj, but maybe somebody has improvised a way to extend it. i'm searching the threads to see what may be there

Frank "it-takes-a-village-to-wheel-a-WJ"
McLean, VA
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post #12 of 16 Old 08-16-2009, 08:45 PM
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why ?? you wouldnt be able to turn as tight making it harder to get around...and people usually use it to stop their tires from rubbing on the control arms

pat

green lifted 4.5 w/32's custom front bumper 5.2L
97 xj stock blue tow hooks F&R 4.0L
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post #13 of 16 Old 08-16-2009, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
wjcando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazydude2500 View Post
why ?? you wouldnt be able to turn as tight making it harder to get around...and people usually use it to stop their tires from rubbing on the control arms
Right... but I'm breaking cv axle joints because I'm turning too far (managed to avoid it for a day and a half, then in a moment of carelessness, bang!).

And you point out, I may have the same problem at full turn with a u-joint. So maybe I should prevent the careless moment by extending the steering stop (or were you referring to the locker when you said "full lock"?)

I appreciate your thoughts on this, crazydude.

Frank "it-takes-a-village-to-wheel-a-WJ"
McLean, VA
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post #14 of 16 Old 08-16-2009, 09:30 PM
crazydude2500
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i would take it out of 4wd if it isnt needed...thats just me i like to see if i can make it without 4wd...maybe you could try getting chromoly axel shafts...

guys running 35's+ dont snap axels with them...these might just be up you alley....i just bought a lockrite locker for my dana 30 and didnt install it yet untill i can get a 231 swap in it then i will install it for fear i will snap axels with the 249 case....

also i bet you will still break them when the wheel isnt at full lock ... i think they put a washer behing where the steering stop is...seen it a while back but not sure

pat

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97 xj stock blue tow hooks F&R 4.0L
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post #15 of 16 Old 08-16-2009, 10:02 PM
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If you are breaking shafts when turning at full lock, then just keep the wheel straight.

'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package
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