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Unread 11-15-2013, 12:48 PM   #1
bumperthumper
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best way to remove sludge from the engine?

hey guys. i just picked up a steal of a ZJ, and long story short, its got some serious sludge. so much infact, a clogged pushrod went right through a rockerarm. anyway, whats the best way to clean this stuff out?

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Unread 11-15-2013, 01:07 PM   #2
Candymancan
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brake cleaner works good I know that... lol
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Unread 11-15-2013, 01:25 PM   #3
zjosh93
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Had that happen on a Chevy 305. I ran a quart of Gunk engine flush right before the next oil change and that got about half of it. Did another flush right before the next oil change and that got the rest. The flush is hard on the oil pressure sensor though, I've had three fail within a couple months of a flush so probably a good idea to remove or replace it. The sludge went away but the flush also loosened a bunch of hard deposits on the inside of the valve cover that ended up falling down and clogging the oil drains in the head. I had to take of the valve cover and remove the hard stuff by hand. If you follow the directions on the can it's safe to use, run engine till hot, add flush, idle for 5 min, drain and add fresh oil. Don't rev the engine or you can scuff a bearing since the flush thins the oil and reduces its film strength.
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Unread 11-16-2013, 12:57 AM   #4
JohnCrabtree
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Seafoam will do the trick. The main (working) ingredient in seafoam is Kerosene. If you talk to old-timers, a lot will actually tell you to dump your oil, throw kerosene in the engine (instead of oil) and run it for a minute or two at a decent RPM (2500 or so). The problem with that is kerosene is much thinner than oil and does not create the barrier the way that oil does so you definitely do not want to overdue it. With seafoam you just add a little bit into your valve cover and a little bit you suck in through your brake booster vacuum line (you can also dump a half a can or so into the gas tank, however, that will make you smoke badly for a while). Run that for around 50-100 miles and then do an oil change. Repeat if needed.

You can get SeaFoam at any auto parts store. It will be near the fuel addatives/brake clean/etc.

I also run Pennzoil high mileage and that seems to do me pretty well. They advertise it as 80% sludge gone in the first oil change if I remember correctly. It's keeping mine clean though.
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Unread 11-16-2013, 09:00 AM   #5
bumperthumper
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I planned on using seafoam anyway. It's an amazing product. But it's really gummed up in there and I was wondering if anyone had any tricks. I poured some kero down pushrods to clean up the lifters. I guess I'll use Pennzoil oil changes for the first few miles. Thanks guys!
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Unread 11-16-2013, 10:09 AM   #6
JohnCrabtree
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bumperthumper
I planned on using seafoam anyway. It's an amazing product. But it's really gummed up in there and I was wondering if anyone had any tricks. I poured some kero down pushrods to clean up the lifters. I guess I'll use Pennzoil oil changes for the first few miles. Thanks guys!
Try not to switch oils around. Not all additive packages are happy being mixed. You could cause your seals to be prematurely destroyed, you could cause sludge buildup, etc etc. Those additive packages are just a bunch of chemicals and we all know what can happen when you start mixing chemicals in your garage like some mad scientist. Your best bet is to choose an oil and stick with it as best as you can.
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Unread 11-16-2013, 10:11 AM   #7
JohnCrabtree
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If you have that much sludge you probably need to clean your TB also. I'd pick up a can of TB cleaner while you're at it.
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Unread 11-16-2013, 10:24 AM   #8
PolkaPower
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnCrabtree View Post
Try not to switch oils around. Not all additive packages are happy being mixed. You could cause your seals to be prematurely destroyed, you could cause sludge buildup, etc etc. Those additive packages are just a bunch of chemicals and we all know what can happen when you start mixing chemicals in your garage like some mad scientist. Your best bet is to choose an oil and stick with it as best as you can.
That's just silly. We are talking about motor oil here not bleach and ammonia. All motor oils are compatible together. Companies change their formula all the time so even if you use the same oil you won't be getting the same mixture.
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Unread 11-16-2013, 10:32 AM   #9
JohnCrabtree
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Too bad it's not silly. It really can cause premature engine damage. MOST additive packages will be fine when mixed, however, not all additive packages will mix without causing premature engine damage.

This isn't coming from some random garage mechanic, this is coming from my world class technical school education.
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Unread 11-16-2013, 10:34 AM   #10
JohnCrabtree
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I'm not saying that if you mix pennzoil and royal purp your engine is going to implode and cause a black hole that will suck up the earth.

It can cause premature engine damage (mainly gaskets and seals) though.
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Unread 11-16-2013, 10:35 AM   #11
PolkaPower
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnCrabtree View Post
I'm not saying that if you mix pennzoil and royal purp your engine is going to implode and cause a black hole that will suck up the earth.

It can cause premature engine damage (mainly gaskets and seals) though.
That is nonsense. Todays motor oils are compatible.

http://www.44thauto.com/tipsandartic...gingfacts.html
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Unread 11-16-2013, 10:35 AM   #12
JohnCrabtree
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PolkaPower
That is nonsense.
Believe whatever you want.
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Unread 11-16-2013, 10:41 AM   #13
HighLonesome
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The best way is to have motor professionally vatted and cleaned. Sludge gets burned in. Doubt you can get all it with flushing.
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Unread 11-16-2013, 10:47 AM   #14
PolkaPower
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I will believe what I want which are facts.

http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html



Quote:
If I put new, fully synthetic oil in my older engine, will the seals leak?

This question comes up a lot from people who've just bought a used vehicle and are wanting to start their history with the car on fresh oil.
The short answer: generally speaking, not any more. The caveat is that your engine must be in good working order and not be leaking right now. If that's the case, most modern oils are fully compatible with the elastomeric materials that engine seals are made from, and you shouldn't have any issues with leaks.
The longer answer:
Mixing Mineral and Synthetic oils - current thinking

Here's the current thinking on the subject of mixing mineral and synthetic oils. This information is based on the answer to a technical question posed on the Shell Oil website:
There is no scientific data to support the idea that mixing mineral and synthetic oils will damage your engine. When switching from a mineral oil to a synthetic, or vice versa, you will potentially leave a small amount of residual oil in the engine. That's perfectly okay because synthetic oil and mineral-based motor oil are, for the most part, compatible with each other. (The exception is pure synthetics. Polyglycols don't mix with normal mineral oils.)
There is also no problem with switching back and forth between synthetic and mineral based oils. In fact, people who are "in the know" and who operate engines in areas where temperature fluctuations can be especially extreme, switch from mineral oil to synthetic oil for the colder months. They then switch back to mineral oil during the warmer months.
There was a time, years ago, when switching between synthetic oils and mineral oils was not recommended if you had used one product or the other for a long period of time. People experienced problems with seals leaking and high oil consumption but changes in additive chemistry and seal material have taken care of those issues. And that's an important caveat. New seal technology is great, but if you're still driving around in a car from the 80's with its original seals, then this argument becomes a bit of a moot point - your seals are still going to be subject to the old leakage problems no matter what newfangled additives the oil companies are putting in their products

Read more: http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_b...#ixzz2kpOiBUvU
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Unread 11-16-2013, 10:49 AM   #15
JohnCrabtree
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:lol: That article is about the effects of mixing synthetic oil with a petroleum based oil. I am talking about the additive packages. Two different things.
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