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Unread 07-13-2012, 12:15 PM   #31
PolkaPower
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Proph2010 View Post
That's s good point, I bought the best trams cooler that advanced auto sold, it's a heavy duty towing cooler so I'd imagine it would be fine standalone then as well, I'm about to replace the condenser so I'll go ahead and eliminate the radiator from the trans cooling equation!
I think my Hayden is rated for 23,000lbs class C motor home. I might take it out and get a smaller fin and plate cooler though.

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Originally Posted by jabba974
"And yes, there is always a torque spec...but its not necessary...and takes way to much time...."
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Unread 07-13-2012, 12:22 PM   #32
jtackerman28
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I run just the aftermarket trans cooler. Because I bought a high capacity, for towing 12000#, and yes the radiator will just warm it back up if you plumb the cooled before the radiator, and may cool it too much in the winter if after the radiator
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Unread 07-13-2012, 12:24 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PolkaPower

I think my Hayden is rated for 23,000lbs which is RV. I might take it out and get a smaller fin and plate cooler though.
That's what I'm running, its smaller and cools better definitely worth the extra $
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Unread 07-13-2012, 01:13 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Proph2010 View Post
Can one of you guys explain this to me... Is is bad in the summer because the abient heat from the trans fluid adds heat the the engine coolant your trying to cool down? Is the auxarilary trans cooler capable of just cooling the trans? If thats the case whats the point in hooking it back up in the winter?
In the summer, the cooler in the radiator adds warmth when not necessary. The warmth comes from the engine coolant warming the entire radiator. A good aux cooler will do the job easily alone. The point of reconnecting is in the winter, the trans may never get up to operating temp. That can cause condensation to build up inside the trans.
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Unread 07-13-2012, 02:09 PM   #35
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Ahhh I see, that makes sense.
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Unread 07-13-2012, 02:29 PM   #36
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Would you be able to tell if the trans fluid wasn't warm enough? Like would the OD light come on or it won't shift?
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Originally Posted by jabba974
"And yes, there is always a torque spec...but its not necessary...and takes way to much time...."
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Unread 07-13-2012, 03:46 PM   #37
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I don't think so. I have a gauge with the sender in the pan.
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Unread 07-13-2012, 04:11 PM   #38
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What's a good range?
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Unread 07-13-2012, 04:21 PM   #39
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What's a good range?
Without googling it , I think you need to get up to 160 or so to burn off the condensation. So running at 170-190 would be nice.
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Unread 07-13-2012, 04:27 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by HighLonesome

Without googling it , I think you need to get up to 160 or so to burn off the condensation. So running at 170-190 would be nice.
Ok is putting an inline gauge before the cooler do the same thing as in pan one?
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Unread 07-13-2012, 05:46 PM   #41
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I think it gives you a better indication of the health of your oil and you know if it's going to over heat. The hot line is the hottest the oil gets coming out of the converter. If that gets up towards 300* then you have a problem because the oil sheers(turns to varnish) at those temps and will no longer protect the clutches so it's time to change your trans oil. Plus you know that if the oil gets that hot at the converter then inside the transmission is well on it's way to overheating. The trans OD light will come on when the trans gets to 260* and the oil will boil out of the top of the trans shortly after that. The temps in the hot line are usually 30-40* hotter than inside the trans and will heat up and cool off rapidly during different driving conditions.

The temps in the pan are a mix of cool oil from the return and pan oil. It's not really an accurate reflection of whats going on after the pickup line inside the trans. If temps get to 260* in the pan then it's already to late because the temps inside the tranny will already be much higher.
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Originally Posted by jabba974
"And yes, there is always a torque spec...but its not necessary...and takes way to much time...."
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Unread 07-13-2012, 09:31 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PolkaPower View Post
I think it gives you a better indication of the health of your oil and you know if it's going to over heat. The hot line is the hottest the oil gets coming out of the converter. If that gets up towards 300* then you have a problem because the oil sheers(turns to varnish) at those temps and will no longer protect the clutches so it's time to change your trans oil. Plus you know that if the oil gets that hot at the converter then inside the transmission is well on it's way to overheating. The trans OD light will come on when the trans gets to 260* and the oil will boil out of the top of the trans shortly after that. The temps in the hot line are usually 30-40* hotter than inside the trans and will heat up and cool off rapidly during different driving conditions.

The temps in the pan are a mix of cool oil from the return and pan oil. It's not really an accurate reflection of whats going on after the pickup line inside the trans. If temps get to 260* in the pan then it's already to late because the temps inside the tranny will already be much higher.
Great info. I can say my trans oil is red and clear after 2 years. I keep a wary eye on it. I may never change it again.
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Unread 07-13-2012, 09:39 PM   #43
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Great info. I can say my trans oil is red and clear after 2 years. I keep a wary eye on it. I may never change it again.
I ended up emailing my buddy who works on the NASCAR circuit and he said that's where the pros run there senders so they can see if they are about to ruins a trans.

The only thing I can't stand is watching it heat up and cool off all the time. It makin' me crazy!
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Originally Posted by jabba974
"And yes, there is always a torque spec...but its not necessary...and takes way to much time...."
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Unread 07-13-2012, 10:13 PM   #44
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When talking to the guy at Ron Davis Radiators, I asked about using a 180 thermostat and he explained to me why not to use it and how the cooling system works.

Then when I asked about adding a external trans cooler to it, he said it was not needed, and not advised with this radiator.

Talked about water pumps, radiator corrosion, electrolysis, the proper coolant to use, PS cooling, and the Griffin Radiators vs the Ron Davis Radiators.
I learned a lot, have many more questions, and will be talking to them a few more times.
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Unread 07-13-2012, 10:16 PM   #45
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I'm all ears.
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