Best Desert Cooling Systems, Radiator, Transmission, Power Steering - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 244 Old 07-12-2012, 09:43 AM
Candymancan
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Mine is bypassed into a 3 loops 22,000 gvw cooler.. I dont even want to attempt to hook it up to the main radiator in the winter tho, the moron previous owner when he bypassed it didnt block the hoses so they have been open for countless years... who knows whats inside there now..

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post #17 of 244 Old 07-13-2012, 01:20 AM Thread Starter
Cameleer
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I ordered a Ron Davis aluminum radiator today for about $700 after having a long take with one of the guys over there. They will be building it for me, and I should have it in about 3 weeks. This should be 30% better cooling than stock and the tranny cooler in it will also be much better.

Also did some other things to help the cooling on my ZJ today.

Thought I would try adding some ľ inch spacers to my hood vents. And later I will also do some trimming to them.


For now Iím just testing and will need to pull them off again and fix a broken mount, so Iím only used this light blue tape for now to hold the spacers in place.


Here you can see how much it opened up the gap.


I can stick my fingers under them now.


This is the stock gap.

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post #18 of 244 Old 07-13-2012, 04:15 AM
zachjf
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I put a 180 thermostat in mine when I moved my IAT and it dropped the temp down quite a bit, sits right at the line below the 1/2 way mark even in 90 degree weather, in traffic, with the a/c on high. Would be a worthwhile addition along with your new radiator and tranny/PS cooler

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post #19 of 244 Old 07-13-2012, 06:25 AM Thread Starter
Cameleer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zachjf View Post
I put a 180 thermostat in mine when I moved my IAT and it dropped the temp down quite a bit, sits right at the line below the 1/2 way mark even in 90 degree weather, in traffic, with the a/c on high. Would be a worthwhile addition along with your new radiator and tranny/PS cooler
I donít believe thatís a good idea for a few reasons.

I may be wrong, but doesnít the computer make the engine run lean to help heat it up to 195 degrees, so if youíre running lower than that your engine would keep running lean.

Will the engine actually run and stay at 180 if you run that thermostat, or does the computer make it run hotter?

Also, with the engine under a heavy load and the temp goes up to 210 or 220 degrees it would be the same no matter what temperature thermostat you have, 180 or 195.

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post #20 of 244 Old 07-13-2012, 08:46 AM
HighLonesome
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cameleer View Post
I don’t believe that’s a good idea for a few reasons.

I may be wrong, but doesn’t the computer make the engine run lean to help heat it up to 195 degrees, so if you’re running lower than that your engine would keep running lean.

Will the engine actually run and stay at 180 if you run that thermostat, or does the computer make it run hotter?

Also, with the engine under a heavy load and the temp goes up to 210 or 220 degrees it would be the same no matter what temperature thermostat you have, 180 or 195.
At 210, either stat would be wide open.

I think its the other way around, the computer richens the mix until operating temp is achieved.

Looking forward to hearing all about the new rad.
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post #21 of 244 Old 07-13-2012, 09:04 AM
jtackerman28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighLonesome

At 210, either stat would be wide open.

I think its the other way around, the computer richens the mix until operating temp is achieved.

Looking forward to hearing all about the new rad.
Running lean heats the motor.

3.5 re lift, double sheer front tb, 31" wrangler duratecs
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post #22 of 244 Old 07-13-2012, 10:46 AM
PolkaPower
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Running it with to low of a thermostat will cause the computer to stay in open loop mode longer resulting in poor fuel economy from what I have read. It just takes longer to get to operating temp.
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post #23 of 244 Old 07-13-2012, 11:28 AM
zachjf
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I have no issues with it at all, supposedly it runs slightly richer but my mpg's are exactly the same. I didnt change mine for cooling reasons, it was a compliment to my IAT mod but it does noticeably drop the engine temp. Some people get codes doing the mod others dont but a good majority of people on speedfreaks are running the 180 thermostat in their rigs with no issues.

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post #24 of 244 Old 07-13-2012, 11:30 AM
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I don't think 180* is bad but anything below that I wouldn't bother with. For engines with the mopar pcm or internal mods it's a good to have the 180*.
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post #25 of 244 Old 07-13-2012, 12:22 PM
HighLonesome
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Originally Posted by PolkaPower View Post
Running it with to low of a thermostat will cause the computer to stay in open loop mode longer resulting in poor fuel economy from what I have read. It just takes longer to get to operating temp.
I think the OBD1 ZJs may differ. Pretty sure they go to closed loop once the heated O2 sensor gets to operating temp. I say this because I had a narrow band stoichmeter on mine. In open loop, the meter worked. This was for the first few minutes. Once in closed loop, the meter just flashed psychedelic patterns.
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post #26 of 244 Old 07-13-2012, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by HighLonesome View Post
I think the OBD1 ZJs may differ. Pretty sure they go to closed loop once the heated O2 sensor gets to operating temp. I say this because I had a narrow band stoichmeter on mine. In open loop, the meter worked. This was for the first few minutes. Once in closed loop, the meter just flashed psychedelic patterns.
Heyyo! Tune in and drop out dude!
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post #27 of 244 Old 07-13-2012, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by HighLonesome View Post
If you have a secondary trans cooler, don't use the one in the radiator. At least in the summer anyway. I bypassed it and my trans temps are now 5-10 degrees lower and the engine seems to run slightly cooler.
Can one of you guys explain this to me... Is is bad in the summer because the abient heat from the trans fluid adds heat the the engine coolant your trying to cool down? Is the auxarilary trans cooler capable of just cooling the trans? If thats the case whats the point in hooking it back up in the winter?
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post #28 of 244 Old 07-13-2012, 12:53 PM
jtackerman28
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I run just the aftermarket trans cooler. Because I bought a high capacity, for towing 12000#, and yes the radiator will just warm it back up if you plumb the cooled before the radiator, and may cool it too much in the winter if after the radiator

3.5 re lift, double sheer front tb, 31" wrangler duratecs
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post #29 of 244 Old 07-13-2012, 01:03 PM
PolkaPower
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They make aux coolers with a thermostat inside them that only open and cool after the trans fluid has gotten to operating temp. It's also a precaution to just run the trans fluid through the aux instead of the radiator. If the radiator cooler fails then you are going to have coolant running into your transmission mixed with the trans fluid and then it's bye bye transmission. This happened to a buddy of mine on his 96 laredo. Killed his transmission.
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post #30 of 244 Old 07-13-2012, 01:14 PM
Proph2010
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That's s good point, I bought the best trans cooler that advanced auto sold, it's a heavy duty towing cooler so I'd imagine it would be fine standalone then as well, I'm about to replace the condenser so I'll go ahead and eliminate the radiator from the trans cooling equation!
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