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12-31-2008, 11:13 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Alpharetta, GA
Posts: 102
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is this a battery problem or alternator problem?
ok- yesterday afternoon i went to start my jeep and it turned on for half a second and then died. i tried to crank her up several more times, gave her a minute to breathe, tried again and still no luck. so i tried again and gave it some gas and she would run while i was gasing it, but the second i took my foot off the gas, she would stall out.  so i cranked her up again, kept the rpm's running at 2000 for a minute or two, put my left foot on the brake to put in in reverse while still keeping my right foot consistent on the gas, backed out of the driveway,and repeated the whole gas/brake simultaneously to put it in drive. didn't have anymore problems after that. is my alternator going out or is my battery maybe not charging it well enough while the car is running? what do i need to look for? pics always help! thanks!
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12-31-2008, 11:38 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Kelowna, BC, Canada
Posts: 543
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Take it to a battery shop, they wont even charge you to see if your battery is holding a good charge, if it is holding a charge, could be altinator. I would also check for corrosion on the battery.
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SOLD: 1998 5.9 Grand cherokee: Suspension: 3.5" IRO Lift, JKS Rear Track Bar & Quick Discos, IRO Double shear front track bar, Black Diamond Shocks,33X12.5 BFG Muds, ARB Front Bumper, Home made Rock Sliders, 242 Swap
New Toy:
2007 Wrangler Unlimited. 2" BB, 1 1/2" wheel spacers, 285/70/17 Goodyear Duratracks.
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12-31-2008, 11:43 AM
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#3
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 5,121
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Could also be a TPS/IAC problem.
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12-31-2008, 11:47 AM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Rockford, Mi
Posts: 191
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to me it sounds like you Idle Air Controller is bad. this is what controls the amount of air going into the engine at idle. this is a common chysler thing. it is located on the back of the throttle body, sometimes cleaning them off helps because they get carbon build up on them and well as the rest of the throttle body and intake.
Do you have a engine light on?
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12-31-2008, 12:17 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 2,673
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Same thing happened to me when my battery went bad. I popped a new one in and she ran good as new.
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12-31-2008, 12:20 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Utah
Posts: 480
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CMARJEEP
Same thing happened to me when my battery went bad. I popped a new one in and she ran good as new.
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x2 I had the same symptoms earlier this year. A new battery solved it, even though I didn't think it would
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01 WJ Spec. App. Laredo. Retrofitted with Akebono calipers; Stillen Sport Rotors; Reese Class III Hitch; and a ZJ Front Drive Shaft Save yourself time, money, and a lot of frustration by NOT shopping at JcWhitney!! Utah Jeep Crew #8 FS: Rear wind deflectors || || Stock OEM Air Box Set Up
Last edited by BlackShuck; 12-31-2008 at 03:03 PM..
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12-31-2008, 12:21 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Leominster, MA
Posts: 398
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test the batteryX2
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94 ZJ I6 Second 4.0 as of 226k Aftermarket Intake, Flowmaster 40 series, Rear Discs
05 Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R 636 just ridiculously fast
96 Nissan Altima 5 speed stock and probably keepin it that way aka the beater or commuter car who wouldnt buy it for a grand with how gas is
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12-31-2008, 02:15 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Alpharetta, GA
Posts: 102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kc8ztw
to me it sounds like you Idle Air Controller is bad. this is what controls the amount of air going into the engine at idle. this is a common chysler thing. it is located on the back of the throttle body, sometimes cleaning them off helps because they get carbon build up on them and well as the rest of the throttle body and intake.
Do you have a engine light on?
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yes i HAD a light on for a day or two- ignored it, it turned off, it came back on a week later (last night), and realized i have a water pump problem that i need to fix before my engine starts overheating- but would that cause my jeep to not start properly? i feel like these are two seperate problems because of the timing. my engine still isn't overheating yet and i plan on fixing that this week-
no corrosion on the battery and i didn't stall out at the stop sign at the end of my street when i was idled right after pulling out of the drive way- it only happened when i was trying to start it... ugh
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12-31-2008, 02:24 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Rockford, Mi
Posts: 191
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water pump issue wont cause the engine not to start, do you know what the exact codes where that it threw.
i would also have a draw test done on the battery though cause thats easy and free... goto NAPA for that
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12-31-2008, 02:40 PM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 2,717
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I'd say battery too...but when you turn it on look at the gauges. Does anything drop? I just had my alternator start to die when my battery gauge dropped off and the check gauge light came on and would go to normal when the rpm went up. Cleaned the battery and terminals, had it tested and was fine. Dropped in the new alternator and it doesn't happen anymore. But if its a starting issue i say battery. how old is it? Most batteries should have the month and year it was purchased on it.
Oh and, is there any corrosion on your battery or terminals? maybe you can clean them and see if that helps?
__________________
1998 ZJ Laredo, 4.0L, 2WD "Band Van", Current
1997 XJ, 4.0L, 30x9.50 Maxxis Bighorns, super 44, Sold
2003 WJ Overland, 4.7L HO V8, 6000K HID's, Sold
1996 ZJ Laredo, 5.2L V8, 3" Kolak exhaust, K&N FIPK, 4300K HID's, Sold
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12-31-2008, 03:33 PM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Buffalo / Brewster NY
Posts: 178
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Battery, mine did it last year. Walmart does battery checks for free and if your nice to the person there they will give you their employee discount on a new one. Still a good idea to clean out the TB / IAC as well.
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'97 ZJ Laredo
- 4.0L
- 176K, runnin like a champ
'06 G35 Coupe 6MT
- A bit faster than the ZJ
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01-01-2009, 10:47 AM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Alpharetta, GA
Posts: 102
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no corrosion- i'll have to check about the guages- if this turns out to be a problem with the alternator, what kind of prices am i looking at? thanks for all the help
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01-01-2009, 10:54 AM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 332
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Original battery? If so, you are on borrowed time anyway. My bet is battery - been there done that.
Check your fault codes while you are at it:
http://www.wjjeeps.com/faultcodes.htm
__________________
Y2K WJ 4.7
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01-01-2009, 02:08 PM
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 2,717
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IF it is the alternator, I just paided $160 for a 120amp alt plus tax minus a $75 return for my 90 amp core (when i get time to return it) so it will end up being about $115. However I got a friends employee discount and the store i got it at already has really good prices. I've heard iffy things about napa and the other chain stores selling japanese alternators and they crap out after a few years. The one I got has a lifetime warranty and is american made. Its weird that the one for the 4.7L is cheaper than the 4.0L lol. Here is a link.
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/se...and%20Cherokee
__________________
1998 ZJ Laredo, 4.0L, 2WD "Band Van", Current
1997 XJ, 4.0L, 30x9.50 Maxxis Bighorns, super 44, Sold
2003 WJ Overland, 4.7L HO V8, 6000K HID's, Sold
1996 ZJ Laredo, 5.2L V8, 3" Kolak exhaust, K&N FIPK, 4300K HID's, Sold
http://www.facebook.com/home.php#/pr...27&ref=profile
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01-02-2009, 08:04 AM
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Alpharetta, GA
Posts: 102
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great- all this helps out a lot guys -appreciate it- thanks again
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