Well my friends the day has come. My swap is now complete and there's nothing left to do. It took three weeks, many scrapes, and my savings account, but it's done.
Sorry for the crappy pics, the Kodak is still not working. My Palm pilot leaves things to be desired definately.
Here's the damage not including the parts I bought that I did not need.
AX-15 tranny $275 From a 94 XJ 4.0L 82,xxx miles. Rear end collision. Junkyard purchase, traded 42RE for the core. Came with bellhousing and shifter.
AX-15 tranny mount (Rockauto) $54 (shipped) Looked up M/T mount and there it was. Fit perfectly on the stock crossmember.
Clutch kit $142 Napa Gold for a 94 JGC with a M/T (Gotta deal because father-in-law works at a Napa)
Flywheel $50 Also Napa Gold for a 94 JGC with an M/T
Clutch and brake pedals $85 out of a 88 XJ.
Clutch master cylinder and external slave (Make sure to use an external, they are sooo much easier) $75 From a 97 TJ.
Crankshaft position sensor for a M/T $62 Pep boys
Rear driveshaft $85 Needed to be 3" longer than A/T's
Front driveshaft shortened and balanced $85, it cleaned mine up good and got rid of vibes.
Shifter boots, and ZJ AX-15 T-case linkage, and ZJ AX-15 5-speed shifter/lever/knob, $100.
Bellhousing dust cover $25 (you can get these from any AX-15 equipped Jeep.)
Various hardware $35 (bolts and stuff)
Rocker switch w/cover $5
Total Damage = $1078 per my reciepts. Those prices include shipping.
Still half the price of rebuilding my auto. I would've had it built right with a shift kit and beefier stuff so it would've cost me about $2200.
It drives great, has tons of pull in 1st through 3rd, fourth and fifth are pretty much the same as third and fourth on the auto, except you don't have a torque converter doing it's own thing and I can accelerate from 40 mph in 5th gear without shifting. I filled up this morning after putting 200 miles on since my road trip after getting it running and my in town average was 17.9 miles per gallon. I normally get between 13-15, usually closer to the 13, so big savings at the pump. (I filled up just to see the miles per gallon on paper. The computer showed 17.5) My short clutch break in/road trip gave me a reading of around 19 even though I was flooring it and climbing steep grades and having way too much fun.
Some things I should note. Not all AX-15's are the same. The ones used prior to 1994 have a different input shaft, with the exception of the ones used in ZJ's. The 93 ZJ got the upgraded for 1994 version (when they were first built) and from 1994 till 2000, everything is pretty much the same.
The tranny mount in the GC is somewhat different so please order a new one when attempting this.
I never suggest using a used flywheel and clutch, (I've worked on this stuff before) but if you are going to go that route, a 94+ XJ or a TJ have the same stuff, so you can use one of those.
Clutch and brake pedals. You can go two routes with this one. TJ and YJ pedals and their brackets do not fit. (ASK ME HOW I KNOW) The XJ bracket will also not fit. (ANOTHER WASTE OF GOOD MONEY) You can do two things without building your own. First, find an AX-15 equipped ZJ in a junkyard (they are on Car-part.com, but you won't find those listed, you have to search for other parts that are AX-15 specific, like driveshafts and call the yard to see if they have what you need), they will run you between $150 and $125 not to include shipping. A set of XJ pedals works great if you put them in your stock brake bracket. I didn't think it would work, but it did. I did RTV a nut onto my brake switch, otherwise the pedal would not have made contact with it. Works great though and cost me less than ZJ specifics.
The clutch master cylinder from an XJ or ZJ is the best. They use a remote reservoir which helps with space in this area. 93-95's have the hole already there, you just have to remove an inspection plate to open it up. The clutch master should be connected with a line to the clutch slave. Don't let anyone convince you they come seperate. Once the line has been disconnected, the slave is no good. You can get a new line on the master, but not the slave. I used a TJ's Clutch master and it worked, but will be hard to add fluid to in the future.
The CPS from the auto will not work. Go out and buy the one you need.
It would've cost about $180 to lengthen my rear driveshaft, so I found one used on car-part.com for $85 shipped and it worked perfect. Again, ZJ AX-15 equipped is the requirement.
Having the front driveshaft shortened, balanced, and pretty much overhauled was at least $50 cheaper than buying another one that had been in a junkyard for years.
The AX-15 T-case linkage attaches to the tranny in a vertical fashion. The 42RE's linkage attaches horizontally, so they are incompatable. Novak conversions makes a nice setup I thought about going with, but I got a good deal on shift boots plus all the stock ZJ AX-15 linkage, so I went with it. A XJ or TJ linkage might work, I never compared them to see if it would.
Bellhousing dust cover, you wouldn't believe how many places just scrap these when they pull the tranny. It was hard to find, you can get it from a dealer for $45 plus tax, but I found an XJ that didn't need it anymore.
I needed bolts, as the tranny didn't come with the bellhousing bolts and I needed longer ones than the auto used. So yeah, the folks at Ace hardware got to know me pretty good.
When you do this you have to ground the neutral safety switch, otherwise, the Jeep will not start. When you ground the switch, you have no cruise because the vehicle believes itself to be in either park or neutral. To alliviate this problem, I used a rocker swith with a cover. (See above pics) I put it in one position to start, and another to use the cruise. Works great. I could've hooked up the harness on the Clutch master Cylinder, but I like being able to start out in gear if I want to.
If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Phil, Hunter or Warren, could we post this in the FAQ? Thanks!