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Unread 08-19-2013, 05:09 PM   #1
JohnnyZJ
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Aussie locker install D30 write up with pics

seems theres a lot of folks on this forum lately asking about lockers and installing them, specifically about the front D30.

recently installed my front Ausso i figured i'd do a quick write up so people can get an idea of what this costs to install etc.

note, i only have a few pics. as far as how it works, it gives me great traction in 4wd, and so far i can't feel it on the street. NOTE; i don't know how it'll handle in the winter and honestly, the jeep will likely not be driven when roads are bad for that specific reason.

anyway, here goes.

tools:
2L gear oil
gasket sealer
loc tite
torque wrench
basic mechanics tools impacts are nice.
small punch
brass punch


first step; get the jeep off the ground; take tires/brakes off. pull the shafts. i just pull the shafts/hubs as a complete unit; pull off the diff cover and drain it.
please note, if you can't get to this step, don't install this locker.

now that the covers off and shafts are out, you have to take out the differential/centre section.
remove the carrier bearing bolts and MARK THE POSITION so you put them back in teh exact same position. i marked the cap as well as labelled where i put them.
at this point, the differential needs to be pulled; most manuals will tell you to use a carrier spreader or a crowbar. well if ur jeep sucks like mine, then the carrier will just fall out........ make sure to keep the bearing races with the appropriate caps (they are side specific.



now the carrier is out. good job.
next, pull the roll pin out of the differential cross pin. i used a small screw for this or if you have a small punch that would work. its jsut a simple roll pin. knock it out through the little hole in the carrier.
pins out? now time to unbolt the ring gear. undo all the bolts holding it on; make sure to mark the relation of the ring gear to the carrier so you put it back on correctly. if the ring gear sticks when you pull it off, use the small brass punch to gently pry the ring gear off.

now you can pull the centre cross pin and remove the spider/side gears. make sure you keep the thrust washers to reinstall with the locker.


now the locker itself can be tricky.
install the passenger side first (or drivers, whatever shouldn't matter) apply great liberally to the teeth of the locker; this will help hold everything in place. install the second part (forget technical name)and the special spacer included with it (for non cclip axles) and hope the grease holds it in place. install the other side of the locker, again, adding grease to the teeth to hold it in.
this parts kind of a pain in the butt becuase you will probably drop it at least once. when you have the parts in place, grab one of the little pins and slid it into the locker. (you will see the grooves where it fits) push it and align the two locker parts together. once it clicks into place, put a little spring in to keep the pin locked;
MAKE SURE THE HOLES LINE UP for the crosspin to go back in. this will really piss you off if you don't lol.
once the first pin is in theh other 4 should be simple. just rotate teh whole assembly until you can get access to the next pin.
reinstall the cross pin.


at this point the diffs put back together and ready to reinstall.

put the ring gear back on torquing to 55 ftlbs. use red loctite on the bolts; nothing sucks more then grenading a diff because you forgot. tighten bolts in a star-type pattern. at this point measure the gap as per the instructions with the locker. if its in spec then pop it back in.
now you can reinstall the carrier into the housing. make sure when you slide the carrier in you have the bearing races on the proper sides, and make sure you put it in straight; don't force it. it will go; once its almost in, turn the carrier until it seats itself with the pinion. now you can bolt the bearing caps back up. this was tricky; get one bolt started, then the other to get it seated; start the other side at this time, again, putting them in the SAME way you took it out. once you have all four bolts installed, take one out at a time, apply RED LOCK TITE and then torque em down to 60ftlbs.

this is the tough part. now its done; the rest is just popping axles back in and filling the diff.

note; if you think you need axle seals then do them at this time. i didn't need em so i didn't do em.

all in took me 4 hours, 8 beers, one sandwich, two nagging phone calls from the wife. i sure wasn't going fast because i was rather enjoying my beer. but overall simple install if yo uhave the right tools (like a lift. that helps)

if you have questions fire away

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92 YJ ~ locked rollin' on 35s
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Unread 08-20-2013, 10:41 AM   #2
dougmorgan99
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This awesome, thanks for the writeup!
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Unread 08-20-2013, 10:57 AM   #3
T-nave
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Good write up! Im thinking this will be my next mod.
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Unread 08-20-2013, 11:24 AM   #4
JohnnyZJ
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no problem.
figured i'd try to add something of value to the community instead of just calling others idiots all the time.

it is a relatively easy install, for the most part.

as far as performance goes, well crawling its real nice to be locked front and rear. the only issue i have is highway icey roads (i'm assuming)

i can still baja' in 2wd out on the trails with no ill effects so thats important too lol
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92 YJ ~ locked rollin' on 35s
05' WK Hemi limited ~ future plan?
14' GMC Terrain ~ wifes
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RIP 95 ZJ ~ 33s built/longarmed/locked/awesome Feb 2014 ZJOTM winner
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Unread 08-20-2013, 03:19 PM   #5
Mark-318-IT
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hi, this is a good writeup!
i have a question: can you still engage 4wd on regular aspahlt street if you run a front aussie?
thanks
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Unread 08-20-2013, 11:33 PM   #6
JohnnyZJ
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I havent as of yet I wouldnt do it on dry pavement though
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92 YJ ~ locked rollin' on 35s
05' WK Hemi limited ~ future plan?
14' GMC Terrain ~ wifes
13' GMC Sierra ~ 2.5" lift 33" MTs.
RIP 95 ZJ ~ 33s built/longarmed/locked/awesome Feb 2014 ZJOTM winner
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Unread 08-21-2013, 01:35 PM   #7
V65Ozzie
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I have the 35 axles, am I correct in assuming that I don't need to pull the carrier to install an Aussie in that? Yeah. I'd like the heavier axles, but that's not happening right now, cash is tight.
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Unread 08-21-2013, 01:51 PM   #8
Adam86
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How does the locker work? It must allow some slip for cornering?

Could you fit one with a 249?
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Unread 08-21-2013, 01:55 PM   #9
JohnnyZJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V65Ozzie View Post
I have the 35 axles, am I correct in assuming that I don't need to pull the carrier to install an Aussie in that? Yeah. I'd like the heavier axles, but that's not happening right now, cash is tight.
i think so; the reason to pull the carrier is to take the ring gear off because the crosspin can't come off with the ring gear on. my rear 8.8 could be installed in the diff; donno on teh 35.


as for running a front locker with a 29, i'm going to say no.
the front only locks when there is power applied to teh driveline; when theres no power, it unlocks.
so with AWD anytime theres power to the front (aka any gas) its locked. you'll wear everything down fast.
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92 YJ ~ locked rollin' on 35s
05' WK Hemi limited ~ future plan?
14' GMC Terrain ~ wifes
13' GMC Sierra ~ 2.5" lift 33" MTs.
RIP 95 ZJ ~ 33s built/longarmed/locked/awesome Feb 2014 ZJOTM winner
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Unread 08-21-2013, 02:14 PM   #10
V65Ozzie
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[QUOTE=JohnnyZJ;15820323]i think so; the reason to pull the carrier is to take the ring gear off because the crosspin can't come off with the ring gear on. my rear 8.8 could be installed in the diff; donno on teh 35.
QUOTE]

Okay, no big, pulling the carrier isn't that hard, if I can get my lockers ordered I'll do my lift and lockers on the same day. It's been recommended that I just do the front one, I'm not a hard core OR guy, but I tend to get into some pretty slick mud at times(stuck 2X in the past 10 days-never even left my yard....) Obviously a more Mud based tire would help, but do the front or both?
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Unread 08-21-2013, 04:23 PM   #11
JohnnyZJ
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lots of debate on that.

i just wanted lockers front and rear. few guys run one up front, none rear. i can't comment on how it runs in 4wd on icy roads but if running in 4wd on roads is important to you (it is in Canada) then the rear locked with the front open is pretty much bulletproof for those on road situations.

my logic is if its bad enough for me to lock it into 4wd then i probably want the front locked as well anyway

if you run just one locker i'd usually just lock the rear, but a lot of those AZ guys will say different
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92 YJ ~ locked rollin' on 35s
05' WK Hemi limited ~ future plan?
14' GMC Terrain ~ wifes
13' GMC Sierra ~ 2.5" lift 33" MTs.
RIP 95 ZJ ~ 33s built/longarmed/locked/awesome Feb 2014 ZJOTM winner
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Unread 08-22-2013, 10:03 AM   #12
V65Ozzie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyZJ View Post
lots of debate on that.

i just wanted lockers front and rear. few guys run one up front, none rear. i can't comment on how it runs in 4wd on icy roads but if running in 4wd on roads is important to you (it is in Canada) then the rear locked with the front open is pretty much bulletproof for those on road situations.

my logic is if its bad enough for me to lock it into 4wd then i probably want the front locked as well anyway

if you run just one locker i'd usually just lock the rear, but a lot of those AZ guys will say different
I live in NC, we don't use 4WD on dry roads, unless it snows or ice storms. And in the past few years we've had enough snow to make..........wait for it......a footprint.
Ice is a different ball game, we get quite a few ice storms. Lots of accidents, but the reality of ice is this: It doesn't matter how many tires you have being driven, Ice is zero traction, unless you have studs, and I have yet to see a studded tire in NC, maybe up in the mountains, I live in the flatlands.
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Unread 08-22-2013, 10:39 AM   #13
JeepNicholson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V65Ozzie View Post

I live in NC, we don't use 4WD on dry roads, unless it snows or ice storms. And in the past few years we've had enough snow to make..........wait for it......a footprint.
Ice is a different ball game, we get quite a few ice storms. Lots of accidents, but the reality of ice is this: It doesn't matter how many tires you have being driven, Ice is zero traction, unless you have studs, and I have yet to see a studded tire in NC, maybe up in the mountains, I live in the flatlands.
Yeah man, WNC is a whole different game
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Unread 08-22-2013, 10:53 AM   #14
JohnnyZJ
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the reason a locker on ice is so dangerous is because of its locking characteristics.

for example. if you have open diffs and you hit ice (or go drive on an ice rink to try it) you will have two wheels spin (one in front, one in rear) and they will lose all grip. because the diff is open though, the other tire will not slip, and will actually keep traction of some sort; thats why you can spin and still go forward.

if you lock the rear for example, in 2wd on that same ice, as soon as both tires slip, the both spin, and lose traction, and will send you sideways very quickly and easily because no tire is holding traction; both have lost it. with front and rear, locked in, same problem.

plus with a front locker engaged on icy roads, sometimes they have a habit of pushing the vehicle forward when you are trying to turn; no need to explain how negative that is.

i live in alberta; the roads here are covered in ice for at least 4 months a year. you get used to it......... thats why i have a daily driver lol
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92 YJ ~ locked rollin' on 35s
05' WK Hemi limited ~ future plan?
14' GMC Terrain ~ wifes
13' GMC Sierra ~ 2.5" lift 33" MTs.
RIP 95 ZJ ~ 33s built/longarmed/locked/awesome Feb 2014 ZJOTM winner
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Unread 09-03-2013, 02:28 PM   #15
V65Ozzie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V65Ozzie View Post
I live in NC, we don't use 4WD on dry roads, unless it snows or ice storms. And in the past few years we've had enough snow to make..........wait for it......a footprint.
Ice is a different ball game, we get quite a few ice storms. Lots of accidents, but the reality of ice is this: It doesn't matter how many tires you have being driven, Ice is zero traction, unless you have studs, and I have yet to see a studded tire in NC, maybe up in the mountains, I live in the flatlands.
I'm going to clarify my last statement with this. The one time I have to engage 4WD on dry pavement is when I'm setting up to go OR, generally at the beach because the pavement just stops, and unless you are fully engaged, the moment you hit the soft sand, you are stuck, that's only happened to me once, the display said I was locked in, I wasn't. Very embarrasing as I had a line behind me, and I got stuck beside a WJ who was apparently having the same issue. I was able to shift in and out of reverse a couple of times, that, while it dug the rear wheels deeper, finally engaged the front which pulled me right through

Now I shift into 4 low first, then back into PT 4WD. Can't fool me twice ZJ.....
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