I installed an IRO 3" with 3/8" OME trim packers and ended up with 4" of lift (or more) all around. I replaced all 4 rod ends at the same time. Did an allignment and balanced the wheels. I've have two bouts with DW while on the interstate one day. But that is the only place it has happened and it hasn't happened anywhere since then driving around the city like normal. I decided to make sure all by bolts were torqued well and decided to look at the axle track bar mount to see if there was a problem. Tell me what you think. There is a video posted at the bottom to illustrate.
It does not look ovaled. However after measuring it with a micrometer... The hole measures ~.54 inches and the bolt measures ~.46 inches. A difference of .08" Which is a little less than 1/8" difference. Is this enough to cause DW? After the bolt is installed...there would be about 1/16" play on each side of the bolt. Should there be absolutely zero movement? Should the washer that is welded to the mount provide exact tolerances?
01 WJ Spec. App. Laredo. Retrofitted with Akebono calipers; Stillen Sport Rotors; Reese Class III Hitch; and a ZJ Front Drive Shaft
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Last edited by BlackShuck; 08-04-2009 at 07:01 PM..
I drilled the axle mount, stright through the welded nut. There's room to put on a nut or 2 behind the welded nut. A 1/2" bolt should fit nicely in the tracbar bushing sleeve. Verify for your application. With the JKS it did anyway.
Am I correct in saying that the sleeve in the track bar bushing shouldn't be able to rotate once the nut is tight? all of the movement should be comming from the rubber not the sleeve. if that bolt is Balls *** tight, that bushing sleeve isnt going anywhere. Am I missing something? The bolt is not a bearing, the bushing is the movement.
The sleeve does not move independently once it is torqued on the axle mount. Like on a 2 piece poly bushing with sleeve you want to grease the outside of the bushing before you install it so it will not squeak and move freely. A 2 piece bushing moves more freely. Another great idea is if your TB hole get's ovaled out, drill out the hole bigger and get a 2 piece rear TB bushing & sleeve for a ZJ. The sleeve is bigger & thicker in diameter and the OD of the bushing is the same size. I figured this out awhile ago and it works great for the HD TB's. Why drill out the sleeve and make it thinner when you can upgrade to a thick walled sleeve?