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Unread 05-04-2015, 05:52 AM   #1
AVR2
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Any advice on pulling the condenser?

The FSM says it can be replaced without removing the radiator, which is a bonus. It looks pretty simple - remove the crossmember, unbolt the condenser through the grille, and lift it out. Are there traps for the unwary?

EDIT - the FSM is inconsistent. The specific section about replacing the condenser says nothing about the radiator, but the section about the radiator has the diagram pointing out that the dowels on the bottom of the rad go through the mounting brackets for the condenser. Dammit, I hate having to screw around with draining the coolant.

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Unread 05-07-2015, 09:12 PM   #2
V65Ozzie
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If I recall correctly, yes, the radiator will have to come out.
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Unread 05-07-2015, 10:13 PM   #3
vlackattack
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Yeah, I seem to remember the condenser being under the radiator when I had to replace my radiator.
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Unread 05-07-2015, 11:02 PM   #4
kg6mov
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Yeah, the condensor tabs on the bottom are held in place by the lower radiator pegs, not likely to come out without the radiator at least being lifted up to clear those.
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Unread 05-07-2015, 11:17 PM   #5
Uniblurb
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Are you replacing all the lines with your other AC parts? I know they aren't easy to get to even with battery box being out and quick-disconnect right against the frame behind the rad. In fact I've had to watch not to snag those AC lines when removing the rad. If you're changing the lines too I'd pull the rad.
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Unread 05-08-2015, 05:31 AM   #6
Marcos
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I didn't have to remove the radiator completely; when you remove the top crossmember, that will allow you to move the radiator back towards the engine a little (and lift it up out of the condenser brackets). I don't recall if I removed the fan and shroud or not.

That said, it's a tight squeeze between the radiator and the header panel. The header panel will probably dent some of the fins on the front of the condenser, but not too bad. If you have the side air seals still in place, they will get in the way and make it a little tougher. If yours are missing, now would be a good time to get them and install them as they will improve cooling and A/C performance.

Some of the condensers have the lower L-brackets held on to the condenser itself with a couple of screws. If you can remove these screws and separate the bracket, this will help with removal and/or installation. In my case the old condenser had the screws, but the replacement had the brackets brazed on.
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Unread 05-08-2015, 06:38 AM   #7
BLacher
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Get some cardboard, put it in front of radiator, cut two more pieces for either side of your condenser (if you are not removing radiator). Although, with the short amount of time it takes to remove radiator, job probably quicker to just take it out, then not near as much risk of damage and save the knuckles...
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Unread 05-08-2015, 07:10 AM   #8
coralman
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,,,,,,,,,and be sure the little grommets on the bottom don't get away from you.
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Unread 05-08-2015, 09:37 AM   #9
AVR2
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Just finished, and I took the rad out completely. It was a major PITA getting the rad back in with minimal crushing of fins on the new condenser because the steering box obstructs where the rad outlet port and trans cooler low-pressure line want to go. And then, once I'd finagled the rad in, it was another PITA getting the pegs to line up with the holes in the condenser brackets and the grommets. Got there after a lot of swearing. Would have been much easier with two people.

I've never had the rubber air seals around the rad/condenser, only two vertical rubber strips that are sandwiched between the rad and condenser and stop them rattling metal against metal. I did try and obtain replacement seals, but they're long since discontinued and impossible to find.
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Unread 05-08-2015, 01:12 PM   #10
zwoobah
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I just did this job as well. Found it much easier to remove the radiator and condenser as one unit, unbolt them from each other and reassemble them on the bench, then slide back in as one unit. The grommets on the bottom pegs are usually rotted and should be replaced as they dampen vibration between the radiator support and the radiator.
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Unread 05-08-2015, 04:46 PM   #11
coralman
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"steering box obstructs where the rad outlet port and trans cooler low-pressure line want to go"

That aggrevated me to no end,when I did mine. You keep fooling with it and all of a sudden it just drops in.
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Unread 05-11-2015, 06:25 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coralman View Post
"steering box obstructs where the rad outlet port and trans cooler low-pressure line want to go"

That aggrevated me to no end,when I did mine. You keep fooling with it and all of a sudden it just drops in.
i buzzed mine off with a cut off wheel and ran an external trans cooler. rad pops in and out easily
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