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Unread 05-17-2007, 08:48 AM   #1
nierace
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Another IRO LA Thread....

Sooo....mines a little different, Orvisman (Kevin) copied me though and we got ourselves a set of custom fully adjustable IRO front LA's

The quality of the LA's seem great, obviously I have not had a chance to really abuse them to see what they can take.

This is the rubicon express end that they used for our arms:



The arms:



Put together:



Brackets to mount to unibody/crossmember:



Lolipop from IRO cus they love me (or have a sense of humor):




What you will need to pick up before you get started :

7/16" Drill bit (LA mount bracket)
29/64" Drill bit (Only if you are doing the IRO TC as well)
1/2" Tap (for coil retainers)
RED threadlocker
Rubberized undercoating



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Unread 05-17-2007, 08:48 AM   #2
nierace
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Getting started:

I decided to put the brackets on while the vehicle sits on level ground, I already have about 5" of lift so its pretty easy for me to get under it, but I think even on a Jeep with less lift you should be able to work on it on level ground, though with the drill you may find it easier to do this part on ramps.

If you wheel your rig your crossmember is probably pretty messed up, so you will need to bend certain parts back into position, like on the corners I folded the lip over my bolts so I couldnt get them off, a big screw driver worked well, much better than a BFH.





Once you've done that place a jack under the crossmember and losen bolts on both sides.

now on the side your working on, take the bolts out completely and lower the cross member enough to get the bracket on. Slide the bracket in place, then tighten the crosmember bolts again.



Drill your holes. Now remove all the bolts again and take the bracket back out:



Clean out the holes of any shards and what not, paint over the exposed metal from drilling.



Spray on ruberized undercoating:



Now remount the bracket, and tighten the bolts on the crossmember so it sits flushand in place.

After this comes the fun part of fishing the nut plates into the frame rail, my only advice is to be patient, to fish them in put them in upside down then ones in the hole, poke it so it flips right side up. If you have skinny fingers you should be able to push it in place, if not you will need bailing wire.

Once you have the nuts plates in place tighten the bolts (don't forget to put thread locker on), you may have to redrill out some of the holes to get the bolt to thread as I had to do.

Now do this same thing on the opposite side. When both sides are on, torque the front 4 bolts (bolts that go to nut plates) to 85ft lbs and the crossmember bolts to 30-34 ft lbs.

Brackets are on
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Last edited by nierace; 05-17-2007 at 01:36 PM..
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Unread 05-17-2007, 09:00 AM   #3
nierace
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Anyways once you have the brackets on you need to take apart your front end. Sit the vehicle on jack stands at the crossmember. Remember to use blocks to keep the vehicle from rolling. PLEASE BE VERY CAREFUL!!!!!!!!!!
You need to make sure it is secure as you will be working underneath it and there will be nothing to stop it from crushing you when you have all of the CA's disconected from the axle.

My first mistake....

So unfortunately I found that I was missing some washers needed for the LCA to the axle for the LA's...because of this I decided to do the springs first. This was a mistake, by having the springs in position while trying to mount the LA's it made it for a much more difficult process, I ended up having to use compressors so I could manipulate the axle into the position I needed to bolt it up.

For dissasembling the front end you need to remove/disconect:

Shocks
Trackbar
Sway bar endlinks.

Disconnect your CA's if you need to now at this point in order to get your old coils out.

Once the old coils are out, use the 1/2" tap to tap the hole for the spring retainers. Spray some paint or undercoating where you tap the hole and in between the bucket and where the retainer will be sitting if you want (I did) Put some thread lock on the end of the bolts, and bolt your spring retainer into the top bucket.

While you're in that area, put in the brake line spacer. The directions from IRO are very good...



So here we are with the CA's disconected on blocks:



I had some issues with my passenger side UCA not wanting to come off...it needed some persausion.



So now with all the ca's disconnected you're ready to put on the LA's. Make sure you measure the LA's to be the same length if you get the adjustables, I thread two bolts through the bushings to see if they are level, I find that to be the easiest way to tell if they are infact symetrical. If you don't have your springs in you should have a much easier time than I did. Follow the IRO directions and you'll be good to go.

LA's in place:





Back on the ground:



In total it took me probably about 8 work hours, doing it by myself and fighting to get the longarms in place while the springs were in it set me back a bit as well.

Theres really nothing out of the ordinary from doing this and a short arm lift with adjustable CA's. The drilling is simple and easy as the bracket acts as a guide for you. The brackets took about a 1.5 hrs to mount so thats the only extra time you would have to put in for these appose to a SA lift.

Still have a bit of tweaking left to do and haven't had a chance to take it out on the road yet :O
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Last edited by nierace; 05-17-2007 at 09:24 AM..
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Unread 05-17-2007, 09:13 AM   #4
IronManVa
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Dude! I had them send you the lolipop

Can you remember our PM where I said maybe the'll send you a lolipop for pushing me in threre direction

The whole team there is fantastic to work with!!
lolipop.jpg  
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Unread 05-17-2007, 09:19 AM   #5
nierace
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I was unable to flex it out last night....





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Unread 05-17-2007, 09:22 AM   #6
nierace
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orvisman
Dude! I had them send you the lolipop

Can you remember our PM where I said maybe the'll send you a lolipop for pushing me in threre direction

The whole team there is fantastic to work with!!

Yeah I was when I saw it
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Unread 05-17-2007, 01:25 PM   #7
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The holes for those brackets are a biotch to drill though. I can say it took me a bit more than 1.5 hrs to do all the bracketry.

I'm startin to disassemble the front end now.
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Unread 05-17-2007, 01:37 PM   #8
nierace
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigsurf75
The holes for those brackets are a biotch to drill though. I can say it took me a bit more than 1.5 hrs to do all the bracketry.

I'm startin to disassemble the front end now.
Invest in some better drill bits, only took me about 15 seconds per hole

And its not the smartest idea to drill laying down with no sleeves on with hot metal shards falling on you, OUCH OUCH OUCH!

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Unread 05-17-2007, 01:50 PM   #9
IronManVa
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no kidding I burned the hec out of myself, PITA getting the metal out of the hair too
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Unread 05-17-2007, 02:05 PM   #10
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Very nice!


And I love the lollipop.
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Unread 05-17-2007, 02:13 PM   #11
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where is your front shock?


Hunter
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Unread 05-17-2007, 02:21 PM   #12
JayIV
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Looks like someone couldn't wait to test them out...

Yea, I think I need some better bits. It easily took me a good 5 mins per hole. Too late now though, all the brackets are mounted up and drilled.

BTW, I don't think its neccesarry to get a tap for the coil retainers anymore, they ship with self tapping screws.
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Unread 05-17-2007, 02:56 PM   #13
nierace
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1
where is your front shock?


Hunter
Shocks are for XXXXX ( I know you didn't just say that in here)


I want to flex it out to see how long of shocks and how big of bump stops I need

I wasnt able to get enough droop last night...and I have a final tonight so maybe tomorow I"ll find something I can max it out on.
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Unread 05-17-2007, 06:18 PM   #14
JayIV
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I thought your Dub was a DD?
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Unread 05-17-2007, 07:17 PM   #15
nierace
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It is but I have other vehicles to use for when its all busted up after wheeling events

Though I still have payments on it

A buggy or beater would have been money better spent...
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www.ironrockoffroad.com
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