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Old 06-30-2009, 06:35 PM   #16
dllama
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1994 ZJ 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlindseyjr View Post
The crank and cam sensors can both cause you problems without throwing a code.
Yes, but would it make the check light NOT come on nor the "on/off/on/off/on" code retrieval not work?

In my mind there is a big difference between not throwing a code and the light and code retrieval not working..

I'm all but resolved to installing a new PCM tomorrow.

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Old 06-30-2009, 06:38 PM   #17
jlindseyjr
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The "on/off/on/off/on" has never worked on my '97. You don't even get the MIL for a few seconds when you turn the key to on?
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Old 06-30-2009, 07:19 PM   #18
dllama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlindseyjr View Post
The "on/off/on/off/on" has never worked on my '97. You don't even get the MIL for a few seconds when you turn the key to on?
That's right no MIL at all. Same behavior with the PCM unplugged.
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Old 06-30-2009, 07:55 PM   #19
rooster51
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go with a cps first. you should by Mopar first, I learned this the hard way. the cps controls the obdII on my 97 so it probably controls your codes too. If this doesnt work, I bought my re-man pcm from advancedauto for $285 w/ a $60(?) core return. good luck.
Also my bad pcm was giving me false codes, so dont trust any codes completely if you suspect a bad pcm.
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Old 06-30-2009, 08:36 PM   #20
ZeeJay1997
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Unplug the CPS and see if your PCM comes back online. Someone just posted this problem on another forum and the CPS was the culprit.

If you're not getting a MIL for 3-4 seconds when key comes on, it's the PCM, power/ground to the PCM, or a rouge sensor shorting the PCM out.

On a side note, the CPS does not control the OBDII or the codes.
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Old 06-30-2009, 09:30 PM   #21
dllama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeeJay1997 View Post
Unplug the CPS and see if your PCM comes back online. Someone just posted this problem on another forum and the CPS was the culprit.

If you're not getting a MIL for 3-4 seconds when key comes on, it's the PCM, power/ground to the PCM, or a rouge sensor shorting the PCM out.
I'm not getting a MIL at all, ever. This mean I can't retrieve codes as the MIL doesn't come on. I read up on the PCM delay due to bad caps, even replaced the caps, still same.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeeJay1997 View Post
On a side note, the CPS does not control the OBDII or the codes.
Understood. My only remaining doubt is that the PCM does some kind to pre-test when the key is put to "on" (not start). Some strange logic like:

If bad/no signal from CPS then don't energize the fuel pump or ASD.

This would explain why I can't get fuel in just the "on" position. But then it wouldn't make sense for the PCM to keep this a secret and disable the MIL instead of throwing a code.. Unless the PCM designer is just pure evil Everything keeps coming back to the PCM.
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Old 06-30-2009, 09:37 PM   #22
ZeeJay1997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dllama View Post
Some strange logic like:
If bad/no signal from CPS then don't energize the fuel pump or ASD.
It can fail and cause your problem.

I would disco CPS and 02 sensors before i called PCM dead.

it may bring your PCM out of its funk. worth a shot and only takes 5 minutes.
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Old 06-30-2009, 09:51 PM   #23
dllama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeeJay1997 View Post
It can fail and cause your problem.

I would disco CPS and 02 sensors before i called PCM dead.

it may bring your PCM out of its funk. worth a shot and only takes 5 minutes.
True, I will try disconnecting the sensors in the morning. If I get the same result I'll swap the PCM.
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Old 07-01-2009, 01:07 AM   #24
StellaTheZJ
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Note that you SHOULD get a MIL glowing briefly during the "bulb test" when you first turn the key to on. In fact, this is when all your warning lights should illuminate. The reason they should all come on when you first turn the key is to check for burned out warning bulbs!! Maybe you have no MIL, and have never seen one, because the bulb is dead.

Confirm the bulb is good, make sure it glows when the key is first turned to "On," and only then can you check for codes with the MIL.
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Old 07-01-2009, 05:18 AM   #25
ZeeJay1997
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Originally Posted by StellaTheZJ View Post
The reason they should all come on when you first turn the key is to check for burned out warning bulbs!! Maybe you have no MIL, and have never seen one, because the bulb is dead. Confirm the bulb is good, make sure it glows when the key is first turned to "On," and only then can you check for codes with the MIL.
The PCM goes through a self test routine at key on and lights the MIL while doing so. Its more than a simple bulb check. If the PCM is bad, it will not come on. The bulb could be bad, but not likely unless someone took it out.
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Old 07-01-2009, 08:04 AM   #26
dllama
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Originally Posted by ZeeJay1997 View Post
The bulb could be bad, but not likely unless someone took it out.
That did cross my mind. I bought the Jeep about 2 years ago from a trustworthy source so I doubt that is the case unless some unscrupulous mechanic fooled him in the past.

There is a test to verify the MIL function but it requires a jumper from the instrument cluster connector (C5 I think) back to the PCM..
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Old 07-01-2009, 01:24 PM   #27
dllama
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It was the PCM.

For anyone with a similar problem I will try summarize the problems and solutions I went through getting to the PCM.

Crank, won't start.
1) Stop cranking, turn the key to "on" and look for the MIL/Check Engine light.
If it's not there you likely need a PCM.
If it's not there try waiting with the key on, it might be the capacitors in the PCM and they might eventually work and give you the check engine and a start. If this is the case follow the great advice earlier in this thread about replacing them.

If the check engine comes on but still won't start there is likely something else wrong.

Pull the codes! Use the "on/off/on/off/on" trick and see what the PCM says is wrong.. it just might be right. Now if you need a PCM you will not have the check engine and therefore can't pull the codes.

Again without trying to start, just in the "on" position check for pressure in the fuel rail. It should be there. Release it, turn the key off, then back to "on" and try again.
pressure = good ASD, Fuel Relay, and pump. Likely cause now is spark; CPS and Coil.
no pressure = bad Fuel Relay, ASD (powers the Fuel Relay), or fuel pump. Swap the A/C Relay for the ASD, try again, Then swap the Fuel Relay, try again. If these don't work you can try to force the fuel pump to work by jumping terminl 30 and 87 with a hairpin. If that works it's a relay problem, if not it's fuel pump problem.


Do the continuity test on the CPS and test for spark at the coil and plug. Since I didn't go down this road you are on your own, but if the continuity test failed you should replace the CPS as it can disable the spark but not the other way around.


Hope this saves someone the time and expense of chasing the wrong part.. Anyone want to buy a used but working fuel pump?
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Old 07-01-2009, 10:48 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeeJay1997 View Post
On a side note, the CPS does not control the OBDII or the codes.
Maybe, but when my cps died I was unable to get a code, my scanner read "ERROR", and I lost all instrument cluster, replaced cps and the cluster worked again and the scanner retrieved my code again.
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Old 07-02-2009, 05:31 AM   #29
ZeeJay1997
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Originally Posted by rooster51 View Post
Maybe, but when my cps died I was unable to get a code, my scanner read "ERROR", and I lost all instrument cluster, replaced cps and the cluster worked again and the scanner retrieved my code again.

I think "control" is a bit strong. "Can Affect" would be more like it.
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Old 07-02-2009, 05:44 PM   #30
StellaTheZJ
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My friend just had his (recently purchased) '97 Land Rover fail emissions. He was surprised, because it hasn't turned on the MIL. Guess what, his bulb HAD been pulled!! Lovely. After replacing the bulb, he found a bunch of stored codes, including O2 sensor failures on one side. You never know about the previous owners... or a dealer (as in his case).
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