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Introducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed LineRaceline/Allied Wheels on Sale NOW !Bead Lock Wheels! Raceline, Trail Ready, & Trail-Gear

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Unread 05-30-2006, 11:54 AM   #46
Varkyl
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hhhmmmm that is very odd. I wonder if it was a typo on the web site when it refers to the trackbar and bracket, and drop pitman arm.

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Unread 05-30-2006, 11:56 AM   #47
AgitatedPancake
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pretty big typo, but I would think drop bracket wouldnt be necessary with the jks, it is plenty long unless it is to correct bump steer...
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Unread 05-30-2006, 12:16 PM   #48
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The only reason to run a drop bracket on the track bar is if you are using a drop pitman arm. That way they are kept inline.
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Unread 05-30-2006, 06:24 PM   #49
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well, im about to weld the crossmember up, i tested my welding out on some bumper scrap and it turned out pretty decent, I think i can replicate it. On a side note, all 4 6" springs are in, front shocks are in, im getting a drill bit for the track bar insert tonight, i have a broken rear shock mount, and 33"s look to small under this thing...Thats about it =D
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Unread 05-30-2006, 06:43 PM   #50
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I know what you mean about 33s looking small. Now if I had a 9 inch and a 44 I might be thinking of 35s. sssssshhhhh don't tell my better half

Good luck on the welding I hope it goes well!
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Unread 05-30-2006, 10:30 PM   #51
AgitatedPancake
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Varkyl
I know what you mean about 33s looking small. Now if I had a 9 inch and a 44 I might be thinking of 35s. sssssshhhhh don't tell my better half

Good luck on the welding I hope it goes well!
I might be tempted to try 35"s either way...with the 30 open, ive heard if i dont be stupid it may work. As for the welding, man its a pain. Not only is it overhead to sheetmetal, theres a gap too. Heres the best of my welds so far. The first turned out like crap (still gotta grind some on em ), but yeah...enjoy =)


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Unread 05-30-2006, 10:36 PM   #52
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AP I may be wrong since I have never welded, but from what I have heard that bead should be thicker on the left side since you're filling in a gap... though since I have never done it...just read about it.
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Unread 05-30-2006, 10:36 PM   #53
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Also it is VITAL you paint that other bolt head black...it clashes something terrible
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Unread 05-30-2006, 10:42 PM   #54
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I don't know how much welding is involved with Clayton's kit, but make sure you are stitch welding anything that requires a longer bead.

You may have read it already, but this is a great source of information regarding welding to the unibody.
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Unread 05-30-2006, 10:49 PM   #55
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Arlo, that is true and ive been trying, it is just hard for me personally to judge, but ill try to make it go to more plate for the next few welds. As for the bolt, hehehe yeah we were holding the crossmember up with the other bolt while painting...so yeah. Ryan, I have read it and I didnt think a single 4" or so bead would be terribly bad, but for the frame rail protectors I was definately going to stitch everything.

Thanks for the comments guys.
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Unread 05-31-2006, 11:32 AM   #56
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I can't really see on that pic but are you getting a good burn in on the bracket's steel? But overall that looks like a good bead.
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Unread 06-02-2006, 12:24 AM   #57
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im not usually one for teasing, but heres ride height (dont mine wheel placement, LAs not in and passender LCA disco'd)

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Unread 06-02-2006, 12:42 AM   #58
10achik
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was there supose to be a pic
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Unread 06-02-2006, 01:03 AM   #59
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i see the pic...u dont?
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Unread 06-02-2006, 01:06 AM   #60
10achik
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Ah, there it is...That looks great, is that at the full 6" ?
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99 GC Limited - 4.7L HO V8, 6.5" IRO HC LA lift, F&R D44s locked & trussed, 242HD, IRO TC Skid, KMA Bumper, 35's
2006 Saturn Redline -2.0L Eaton supercharged I4, GMPP Stage 2, Custom Tune, AEM CAI, Ebiach Pro Kit w/ swaybars, EVO Ventus V12s (13.76 @ 103.85)
2006 Pontiac G6 GTP
2012 Nissan Juke - (hers)
2000 SV650 - naked, integrated tail light, sliders, corbin, pilot roads, RK chain & sprokets, D&D full exhaust, FactoryPro Stage I jet kit, +4 Ignition Advancer, Barnett race clutch
2006 Triumph America 900 - Full Dresser

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