AC to OBA Conversion... PRESSURE SWITCH - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 23 Old 07-22-2013, 11:14 PM Thread Starter
congerz83
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1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Congers
Posts: 372
Why do I get the feeling I'm completely wrong and the oiler goes on the inlet and the separator goes on the discharge hose?

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post #17 of 23 Old 07-22-2013, 11:23 PM
Mickey_D
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Quote:
Originally Posted by framanda View Post
3/8 is plenty big. Most all automotive mechanics shops run 3/8 air hose. The only place I have seen 1/2 air hose was in heavy equipment shops running huge impact guns
I am just relaying my experience. The 3/8" line restricted the volume of air to the point that a tire inflator could exceed the air handling capability of the integrated lines. Forget using an air impact. It would get two impacts then get starved for air.

I realize your fittings have smaller openings and orifices than a 1/2" hose. I understand that the hose you plug in is only 3/8". I am not a physics professor. I have no idea why it didn't work. All I know is it didn't.

Especially the lines from the compressor to the tank. If you're charging the tank while driving, let me know how your hearing is afterwards. I made that mistake. The high pitched SCREAM of the air being forced through that tiny (in comparison) air hose is deafening. The 3/8" line would actually restrict the air flow to the point that the pressure switch would chatter on and off.

I moved my pressure switch to the tank end of the line. Bad idea. I had two pressure gauges on my system. One in the dash that read at the output of the compressor, the other on the tank itself. Once I moved the pressure switch to the tank I broke my 150PSI gauge that was at the output of the compressor. Burst the internals. I estimate from the damage to the gauge I spiked the pressure to somewhere around 300PSI as immediately after the gauge blew up I burst a 250PSI line that ran right under my arse (I ran the line to the tank along the "frame rail" on my XJ.

That was a short trip as I had to turn around and go change my shorts.

That Sanden compressor could fill my twin 5 gallon tanks from dead empty to 120PSI in less than 30 seconds if I picked the engine off idle at all. If I was driving and could handle the scream, it would fill them up in around 10 seconds. Most people have absolutely no idea just how much air that compressor will move. There is no electrically powered compressor that can even come close. Electrical compressors are equivalent to kids tricycle. These A/C compressors are a drag race motorcycle. There's that much difference. I think the best Campbell Hausfield can do on a 45 gallon twin cylinder 220V compressor is about 12 or 15 CFM. I do believe the R134a Sanden compressor is quite capable of forcing out something like 100 CFM. And at MUCH higher pressures. Think about it - R134a standard high side pressures vary between 275 and 400 PSI.

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post #18 of 23 Old 07-23-2013, 02:14 AM
framanda
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Filter, oiler, compressor, then separator.
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post #19 of 23 Old 07-23-2013, 02:34 AM
framanda
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mickey_D View Post
I am just relaying my experience. The 3/8" line restricted the volume of air to the point that a tire inflator could exceed the air handling capability of the integrated lines. Forget using an air impact. It would get two impacts then get starved for air.

I realize your fittings have smaller openings and orifices than a 1/2" hose. I understand that the hose you plug in is only 3/8". I am not a physics professor. I have no idea why it didn't work. All I know is it didn't.

Especially the lines from the compressor to the tank. If you're charging the tank while driving, let me know how your hearing is afterwards. I made that mistake. The high pitched SCREAM of the air being forced through that tiny (in comparison) air hose is deafening. The 3/8" line would actually restrict the air flow to the point that the pressure switch would chatter on and off.

I moved my pressure switch to the tank end of the line. Bad idea. I had two pressure gauges on my system. One in the dash that read at the output of the compressor, the other on the tank itself. Once I moved the pressure switch to the tank I broke my 150PSI gauge that was at the output of the compressor. Burst the internals. I estimate from the damage to the gauge I spiked the pressure to somewhere around 300PSI as immediately after the gauge blew up I burst a 250PSI line that ran right under my arse (I ran the line to the tank along the "frame rail" on my XJ.

That was a short trip as I had to turn around and go change my shorts.

That Sanden compressor could fill my twin 5 gallon tanks from dead empty to 120PSI in less than 30 seconds if I picked the engine off idle at all. If I was driving and could handle the scream, it would fill them up in around 10 seconds. Most people have absolutely no idea just how much air that compressor will move. There is no electrically powered compressor that can even come close. Electrical compressors are equivalent to kids tricycle. These A/C compressors are a drag race motorcycle. There's that much difference. I think the best Campbell Hausfield can do on a 45 gallon twin cylinder 220V compressor is about 12 or 15 CFM. I do believe the R134a Sanden compressor is quite capable of forcing out something like 100 CFM. And at MUCH higher pressures. Think about it - R134a standard high side pressures vary between 275 and 400 PSI.
Weird I run a York 210 comp and they put out some serious cfm as well I have had no problem running 3/8 line from the comp to the tank (tank is mounted inside rear cargo area)I only flip my switch on it idle, all I here is a quick whoose of air then I can't here the tank filling at all. I just watch my in cab gauge gain pressures takes my 2.5 gallon tank just under a minute to fill at idle. I don't know about off idle but I know at like 2500 rpm this thing can move some serious air. I posted a link to my build thread earlier in this thread you can see my set up on pg 4. Also I have ran a 1/2 inch impact of my set up. It was plenty sufficent for any trail repair.
Edit I did have a problem running my in cab gauge of the manifold right near the comp the needle would shake terribly while filling the tank i had to move the pressure line to the tank then all was well.
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post #20 of 23 Old 07-23-2013, 05:20 PM Thread Starter
congerz83
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1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Congers
Posts: 372
Should I put an in-line fuse anywhere in this setup?
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post #21 of 23 Old 07-23-2013, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
congerz83
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Congers
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Has anyone done a detailed write-up of the WIRING? Where can I tap power to the Delphi?
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post #22 of 23 Old 07-23-2013, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
congerz83
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Congers
Posts: 372
Two more quick questions...

Can I use the A/C button to turn the compressor on and off?

And do I need to preload the compressor with the tool oil?
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post #23 of 23 Old 01-15-2014, 09:55 AM
speedbucket
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: chesapeake
Posts: 3,562
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dyn0mitemat View Post
My setup works fine for everything. Put an inline filter after the compressor and it's completely fine. Powering my zip lockers just fine. Got about $75 bucks in mine and it fills my 35s up just as fast as my 2 stage home compressor
So why wouldn't you be able to fill tanks?

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/speedbuckets-zj-build-1361322/
V8 zj at 6" . Double tri rear and true 3 link front. Stretched to 108"
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