[plmac]

Hello to all. I have a 2001 GC Limited with a 4.7. My AC fan comes on for a few seconds then shuts off (mine is the Automatic Zone Control system). It did this a few times then stayed on. Yesterday I got in the car (102 degrees outside) and the AC fan did not come on at all, however I was getting some cold air from the vents when the car was in motion. The fan came on and stayed on after about 15 minutes. I checked the FAQ section and did the Zone Control System - On-board Diagnostics. No codes in memory and no codes to display and the fan did not come on again. I looked at the compressor it is cycling on and off, I unplugged the low pressure sensor and the compressor stays off, when I bypassed the low pressure sensor the compressor came on and stayed on but the fan is still off.

My Haynes Manual says the AC system is complicated take it to the shop. Any ideas which way to go now?

[indept]

Originally Posted by plmac

My Haynes Manual says the AC system is complicated take it to the shop. Any ideas which way to go now?

Haynes seems to say that about a lot of things, guess you don't need their manual then

I don't have the automatic zone control in my WJ but I do have it in my wifes '07 Pacifica and the system doesn't control the fan, just the blend doors to set the temp. I would think your fan should stay at the speed you select. You could check to see if the blower motor has voltage to it. Theres a chance the blower motor is bad. Does it come on if you turn on the heat?

[plmac]

Thanks indept, I found the problem while checking voltage to the blower. I don't know the name of the part but it is located just behind the blower on the bottom of the hvac unit. Connector got a little hot and damaged the
large sensor. Check out the pictures.

http://flickr.com/photos/paulmcspics/

Thanks for the help

[MEinSoCal]

Originally Posted by plmac

Hello to all. I have a 2001 GC Limited with a 4.7. My AC fan comes on for a few seconds then shuts off (mine is the Automatic Zone Control system). It did this a few times then stayed on. Yesterday I got in the car (102 degrees outside) and the AC fan did not come on at all, however I was getting some cold air from the vents when the car was in motion. The fan came on and stayed on after about 15 minutes. I checked the FAQ section and did the Zone Control System - On-board Diagnostics. No codes in memory and no codes to display and the fan did not come on again. I looked at the compressor it is cycling on and off, I unplugged the low pressure sensor and the compressor stays off, when I bypassed the low pressure sensor the compressor came on and stayed on but the fan is still off.

My Haynes Manual says the AC system is complicated take it to the shop. Any ideas which way to go now?

same exact thing just happened to me except i don't have th auto zone control thing. in my situation, the air gets nice and cold, and i can hear the AC motor working, but don't feel the air coming out of the vents. well, sometimes it works but only for a few minutes, but most times, the fan doesn't seem to be blowing.

what part do we need to replace?

[MEinSoCal]

Originally Posted by plmac

Thanks indept, I found the problem while checking voltage to the blower. I don't know the name of the part but it is located just behind the blower on the bottom of the hvac unit. Connector got a little hot and damaged the
large sensor. Check out the pictures.

http://flickr.com/photos/paulmcspics/

Thanks for the help

i think this is what you're referring to:

http://www.wjjeeps.com/blower_motor.htm

[plmac]

MEinSoCal you hit the nail on the head, the link shows it all.

Has anyone done the direct wire repair? This forum is great.

Thanks again

[Shirai_Ryu]

This is a very common problem on this vehicle, Blower motor resistor shorts out & then the wiring harness to the resistor all melts together (or vice-versa, but either way the result is the same).

Mopar makes a wiring/connector "pig tail" repair kit fairly cheap for the wiring/connector, bad news is that resistor is gonna set you back a pretty penny.

Parts info:
5012699AA - Resistor - MSRP: $124.00
5102406AA - Wiring - MSRP: $16.00

[plmac]

I did the Alternative repair method http://www.wjjeeps.com/blower_motor.htm it works great. Wahoo!! Another $140 I didn't have to spend.

[lreynard]

I have the same problem on my '03. I just ordered the new harness fix from Mopar Parts online for $20.97 with shipping. I'll hook it up and determine if my resistor is bad before blowing the $120 for that bad boy. I really appreciate all yall, I almost went to the stealership on this one! That would have set me back probably about $350 for a $20 fix!

[JG_Canuck]

^ Good idea. Unless the connector plug has gotten way too hot and melted the contacts to the controller, it's probably OK. At least that was the case with mine. I just soldered new leads with automotive wire I had hanging around.

Love the inexpensive fixes!

[lreynard]

Just pulled my resistor pack and here's my outcome... Looks like I'll be splurging for a new resistor after all.

For those that have done the swap, how do I deal with the red and black wires coming directly out of the resistor? Is it a hack and splice job? Thanks all!

[MEinSoCal]

Originally Posted by plmac

I did the Alternative repair method http://www.wjjeeps.com/blower_motor.htm it works great. Wahoo!! Another $140 I didn't have to spend.

glad you got your AC worked out. i need to stop procrastinating and fix my damn jeep, especially now that its getting into the 90's during the day...

[lreynard]

Fixed mine up tonight after work. It took about an hour and about $120 with replacing the resistor. After I pulled my resistor I learned that it was burned very badly, I'm lucky I didn't have a fire from it. Check those wires yall!

[Rokmonanoff]

I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited with the 4.7. It has the auto-zone controls. Heat is being produced in the dash but is not coming out of the vents anywhere. The fan is running though. Dealership says that some kind of chute that directs the air through to the interior of the vehicle is broken and blocking the vents, and sending the air right back into the engine compartment. They want 150 for the part and 1000 for the labor. We are getting similar quotes from non-dealership shops. Any other suggestions before we bite the bullet?

Thanks
Rok

[Mickey_D]

Do a search for "Blend Door". It's a common problem.