AC Compressor replacement problems - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 18 Old 09-25-2010, 02:21 PM Thread Starter
clemsonyj
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AC Compressor replacement problems

Hey all,
Well today I decided to replace my AC compressor because the clutch bearings are going out and I had access to the proper tooling for it (Vacuum manifold kit). Anyways, before the repair, the ac would blow cold and work great but would make noise when the clutch kicked in (Just as a backstory).

So I bought a remaned unit that only had one wire and a ground bolted to the compressor itself. I clipped the ground wire and spliced it back into the two wire plug that I cut from the original compressor. Installed everything, vac'd the system and did the preliminary fill. Then, tried starting and running the compressor and nothing, it wouldn't kick on or anything. We first tested voltage at the plug (harness side) and it had fine power. However when we went back a little later and tested again, no voltage. Am I missing something?


Any help would be appreciated, I also tried jumping the pressure switches but to no avail. No fuses are blown either.

Max


91 YJ: 2.5L, 31 A/T's, Crager soft 8's: SOLD

94 ZJ 5spd: RE 3.5" Superflex Kit, HPD30, Lockright, 32 Maxxis Bighorns, Rhino-lined Floors, Homebrew Sliders, Hacked fenders: SOLD

98 ZJ: 5.2L, RC Budget Boost, 16" Moabs, Goodyear MTR's, NP242, Magnaflow 3"
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post #2 of 18 Old 09-25-2010, 02:50 PM Thread Starter
clemsonyj
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Also, when I jumped the low pressure switch, the relay clicked, so I can assume that its working. I also tested to see if there was any voltage at the connector both when I jumped the low pressure and high pressure switches. Still no voltage. I'm out of ideas...
Max

91 YJ: 2.5L, 31 A/T's, Crager soft 8's: SOLD

94 ZJ 5spd: RE 3.5" Superflex Kit, HPD30, Lockright, 32 Maxxis Bighorns, Rhino-lined Floors, Homebrew Sliders, Hacked fenders: SOLD

98 ZJ: 5.2L, RC Budget Boost, 16" Moabs, Goodyear MTR's, NP242, Magnaflow 3"
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post #3 of 18 Old 09-26-2010, 05:50 AM
coralman
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I may be confused but why should you have to alter the wiring ?
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post #4 of 18 Old 09-26-2010, 07:22 AM Thread Starter
clemsonyj
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The compressor that I bought had a single wire from it and the second wire (ground) was doubled back and bolted to the compressor housing. So I cut it from the housing and tied it into the old 2-wire harness from my old compressor. I ended up getting power back to the plug last night, I went through and tested every single fuse again and one that is not labeled was popped, I replaced it and got the compressor going. Then I jumped the low pressure switch and finished filling with 134. I think it may be good to go now. However, I'm hearing a lot of chattering from the pistons inside the new compressor if I'm up close to it (hood open). The compressor said it came with oil in it. Any thoughts?
Max

91 YJ: 2.5L, 31 A/T's, Crager soft 8's: SOLD

94 ZJ 5spd: RE 3.5" Superflex Kit, HPD30, Lockright, 32 Maxxis Bighorns, Rhino-lined Floors, Homebrew Sliders, Hacked fenders: SOLD

98 ZJ: 5.2L, RC Budget Boost, 16" Moabs, Goodyear MTR's, NP242, Magnaflow 3"
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post #5 of 18 Old 09-26-2010, 11:05 AM
coralman
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Piston slap is usually an indication of liquid refrigerant making it back to the compressor. May want to check your charge. Did you replace the accumulator/drier with comp change out? Manufacturers usually want the orifice changed out too to honor any warranty.
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post #6 of 18 Old 09-26-2010, 12:31 PM Thread Starter
clemsonyj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coralman View Post
Piston slap is usually an indication of liquid refrigerant making it back to the compressor. May want to check your charge. Did you replace the accumulator/drier with comp change out? Manufacturers usually want the orifice changed out too to honor any warranty.
The gauge I have to measure the charge is a cheap-ish one. Would the refrigerant level be to cause piston slap or too low? Also, I didn't replace the dryer. I thought that since the compressor hadn't flung metal or anything into the system from imploding then the dryer wouldn't be contaminated. Also it was an added expense.
Max

91 YJ: 2.5L, 31 A/T's, Crager soft 8's: SOLD

94 ZJ 5spd: RE 3.5" Superflex Kit, HPD30, Lockright, 32 Maxxis Bighorns, Rhino-lined Floors, Homebrew Sliders, Hacked fenders: SOLD

98 ZJ: 5.2L, RC Budget Boost, 16" Moabs, Goodyear MTR's, NP242, Magnaflow 3"
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post #7 of 18 Old 09-26-2010, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
clemsonyj
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Okay well just an update. I went outside and ran the compressor again and it kept clicking on an off too frequently so I added more freon and the compressor remained engaged and the "knocking" stopped. Some of it I could tell was "valve tick" but either way that seemed to stop. Now since I have a cheaper gauge and I didn't measure how much actual weight of freon came out, what is the pressure in the system at the low-pressure valve supposed to be with the compressor engaged? Right now, my gauges are reading 45psi.
Max

91 YJ: 2.5L, 31 A/T's, Crager soft 8's: SOLD

94 ZJ 5spd: RE 3.5" Superflex Kit, HPD30, Lockright, 32 Maxxis Bighorns, Rhino-lined Floors, Homebrew Sliders, Hacked fenders: SOLD

98 ZJ: 5.2L, RC Budget Boost, 16" Moabs, Goodyear MTR's, NP242, Magnaflow 3"
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post #8 of 18 Old 09-26-2010, 02:30 PM
SJZ
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Did the "new" compressor have oil in it?
I'm a firm believer in not changing a part that is working. You should have bought a clutch bearing, and just changed it, since that was the bad part. I've changed them without even removing the compressor from it's mount.
Too late for you now, but maybe someone else can benefit.
I hope it works out!

-Steve
"Those who hammer their guns into plows, will plow for those who do not." -Thomas Jefferson
___________________________________________
'98 ZJ Laredo 5.2 Selec-Trac (249 to 242 swap)
'05 KJ Limited 3.7 Selec-Trac
'94 ZJ Limited 5.2 Q-Trac- sold, after 17 years
'67 International Harvester Scout 800; 345ci V8,T18 4spd, Dana 20 TC
'06 Chrysler 300C SRT8 6.1L
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post #9 of 18 Old 09-26-2010, 02:32 PM
SJZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clemsonyj View Post
Okay well just an update. I went outside and ran the compressor again and it kept clicking on an off too frequently so I added more freon and the compressor remained engaged and the "knocking" stopped. Some of it I could tell was "valve tick" but either way that seemed to stop. Now since I have a cheaper gauge and I didn't measure how much actual weight of freon came out, what is the pressure in the system at the low-pressure valve supposed to be with the compressor engaged? Right now, my gauges are reading 45psi.
Max
I'm glad it worked out. Check here for pressures:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/f...6/#post9954914

-Steve
"Those who hammer their guns into plows, will plow for those who do not." -Thomas Jefferson
___________________________________________
'98 ZJ Laredo 5.2 Selec-Trac (249 to 242 swap)
'05 KJ Limited 3.7 Selec-Trac
'94 ZJ Limited 5.2 Q-Trac- sold, after 17 years
'67 International Harvester Scout 800; 345ci V8,T18 4spd, Dana 20 TC
'06 Chrysler 300C SRT8 6.1L
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post #10 of 18 Old 09-26-2010, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
clemsonyj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SJZ View Post
Did the "new" compressor have oil in it?
I'm a firm believer in not changing a part that is working. You should have bought a clutch bearing, and just changed it, since that was the bad part. I've changed them without even removing the compressor from it's mount.
Too late for you now, but maybe someone else can benefit.
I hope it works out!
Thought about that, but since the bearing was already making noise then I wasn't sure if there was metal in the compressor. Additionally, an entirely new compressor was $40 more than just the clutch, kind of a no-brainer there. And yes, the new compressor came with oil in it.
Max

91 YJ: 2.5L, 31 A/T's, Crager soft 8's: SOLD

94 ZJ 5spd: RE 3.5" Superflex Kit, HPD30, Lockright, 32 Maxxis Bighorns, Rhino-lined Floors, Homebrew Sliders, Hacked fenders: SOLD

98 ZJ: 5.2L, RC Budget Boost, 16" Moabs, Goodyear MTR's, NP242, Magnaflow 3"
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post #11 of 18 Old 09-26-2010, 02:46 PM
SJZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clemsonyj View Post
Thought about that, but since the bearing was already making noise then I wasn't sure if there was metal in the compressor. Additionally, an entirely new compressor was $40 more than just the clutch, kind of a no-brainer there. And yes, the new compressor came with oil in it.
Max
The clutch bearing is external to the compressor's innards, so there is no chance that metal will get inside the compressor due to a noisy clutch bearing. A clutch bearing is ~$40, IIRC.
It all worked out well for you in the end, which is the important thing. I just thought I would mention it.

-Steve
"Those who hammer their guns into plows, will plow for those who do not." -Thomas Jefferson
___________________________________________
'98 ZJ Laredo 5.2 Selec-Trac (249 to 242 swap)
'05 KJ Limited 3.7 Selec-Trac
'94 ZJ Limited 5.2 Q-Trac- sold, after 17 years
'67 International Harvester Scout 800; 345ci V8,T18 4spd, Dana 20 TC
'06 Chrysler 300C SRT8 6.1L
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post #12 of 18 Old 09-26-2010, 03:02 PM Thread Starter
clemsonyj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SJZ View Post
The clutch bearing is external to the compressor's innards, so there is no chance that metal will get inside the compressor due to a noisy clutch bearing. A clutch bearing is ~$40, IIRC.
It all worked out well for you in the end, which is the important thing. I just thought I would mention it.
I understand completely and appreciate your input. But there are two actual bearings, aren't there? The actual pulley bearing which as you described doesn't actually interfere with the innards of the compressor and would have made a constant noise. Or, the clutch bearing, which was my problem, which only surfaced itself when the AC was turned on and does in fact interfere with the innards of the compressor. That was my ultimate reasoning in replacing the entire compressor. And as you said, it seems to have worked out for me. Let's hope it stays that way!
MaX

91 YJ: 2.5L, 31 A/T's, Crager soft 8's: SOLD

94 ZJ 5spd: RE 3.5" Superflex Kit, HPD30, Lockright, 32 Maxxis Bighorns, Rhino-lined Floors, Homebrew Sliders, Hacked fenders: SOLD

98 ZJ: 5.2L, RC Budget Boost, 16" Moabs, Goodyear MTR's, NP242, Magnaflow 3"
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post #13 of 18 Old 09-26-2010, 03:28 PM
SJZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clemsonyj View Post
I understand completely and appreciate your input. But there are two actual bearings, aren't there? The actual pulley bearing which as you described doesn't actually interfere with the innards of the compressor and would have made a constant noise. Or, the clutch bearing, which was my problem, which only surfaced itself when the AC was turned on and does in fact interfere with the innards of the compressor. That was my ultimate reasoning in replacing the entire compressor. And as you said, it seems to have worked out for me. Let's hope it stays that way!
MaX
The clutch bearing is the pulley bearing.
The pulley is pressed onto the outer race of the clutch bearing. The inner race of the clutch bearing is fit onto a shoulder which is part of the compressor's front case. In essence, the pulley freewheels and the clutch bearing is always rotating when the engine is running.
The compressor's shaft pokes thru the clutch bearing, and is fastened to the front drive plate. When the clutch is energized, the front plated is pulled rearward (thru magnetism) and contacts the front friction surface of the pulley. This causes the front plate to spin, which also spins the actual compressor shaft (to which it's attached).
If your compressor was only making noise when the clutch was engaged, your front and/or rear compressor bearing (internal) was probably shot. In your case merely replacing the clutch bearing would not have helped.

-Steve
"Those who hammer their guns into plows, will plow for those who do not." -Thomas Jefferson
___________________________________________
'98 ZJ Laredo 5.2 Selec-Trac (249 to 242 swap)
'05 KJ Limited 3.7 Selec-Trac
'94 ZJ Limited 5.2 Q-Trac- sold, after 17 years
'67 International Harvester Scout 800; 345ci V8,T18 4spd, Dana 20 TC
'06 Chrysler 300C SRT8 6.1L
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post #14 of 18 Old 09-26-2010, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
clemsonyj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SJZ View Post
The clutch bearing is the pulley bearing.
The pulley is pressed onto the outer race of the clutch bearing. The inner race of the clutch bearing is fit onto a shoulder which is part of the compressor's front case. In essence, the pulley freewheels and the clutch bearing is always rotating when the engine is running.
The compressor's shaft pokes thru the clutch bearing, and is fastened to the front drive plate. When the clutch is energized, the front plated is pulled rearward (thru magnetism) and contacts the front friction surface of the pulley. This causes the front plate to spin, which also spins the actual compressor shaft (to which it's attached).
If your compressor was only making noise when the clutch was engaged, your front and/or rear compressor bearing (internal) was probably shot. In your case merely replacing the clutch bearing would not have helped.
Well it seems as though my terminology was different which in turn threw you off. We were both effectively saying the same thing but in different ways. So the compressor shaft bearing(s) were bad causing my issue and potentially contaminating the internals of the compressor/ac system.
Max

91 YJ: 2.5L, 31 A/T's, Crager soft 8's: SOLD

94 ZJ 5spd: RE 3.5" Superflex Kit, HPD30, Lockright, 32 Maxxis Bighorns, Rhino-lined Floors, Homebrew Sliders, Hacked fenders: SOLD

98 ZJ: 5.2L, RC Budget Boost, 16" Moabs, Goodyear MTR's, NP242, Magnaflow 3"
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post #15 of 18 Old 09-26-2010, 08:43 PM
Ricochet88
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are you sure it had oil in it? i replaced mine a month ago and i had to add oil in it

Rick "woody"
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my build thread PROJECT WOODY

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